Spongy brake pedal

Tiny
GMCER
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 GMC SIERRA
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
First off, I know my way around vehicles but, I need a second opinion.
I have since new vehicle listed above sle z71.
It's been retired as a chore truck.

I just put on all brake system components except master cylinder.
Literally, front bearings, front abs sensors, calipers, flex hoses, rear wheel bearings, seals, wheel cylinders, drums, brake shoes, pads, flushed with new fluids til clean and clear.

I have a motive pressure bleeder and I purchased an autel maxicheck to actuate the abs motor but the maxicheck goes back today because it will not auto bleed this year model.

I put the truck on jack stands to perform all the repairs.
While on the stands I bled the system and placed the vehicle in 4wd, started engine, put in gear and reached a speed of 20 mph, applied the brakes moderately and the abs kicked in for approximately 45 seconds. I did this several times then bled at wheels again and no air was seen exiting the bleeders.
The rear brakes are slightly touching the drums and all hardware is cleaned lubed and working as needed.

I still have a spongy pedal! Will not get firm until past 3/4 way down.
I plugged both outlets to the brake lines at the master cylinder with brass plugs. The pedal is firm and has little movement while these plugs are in.

I am okay with taking it to someone with tech scanner but, is it possible my master cylinder is the issue?

When I start the engine is when the pedal goes to the floor.
No leaks anywhere and everything was original. I know the rear circuit went dry when the wheel cylinder piston seal blew.
What am I missing here?


What do you think? Air in abs or do I have a master cylinder issue?

Thank you
Saturday, August 10th, 2019 AT 6:39 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
94 TRANSAM
  • MECHANIC
  • 680 POSTS
Hi, thank you for visiting 2CarPros. I have had this issue several times on GM cars and trucks. I don't know why but some of them seem to be stubborn about trapping air pockets in the system. I had one that would not bleed with a power bleeder or by pedal. I had to pop the cap on the master cylinder and open all the bleeders for 3 hours and just let them drip to bleed it. If your master holds a pedal capped off I don't think that is the issue. Give the gravity bleed a shot and let us know how it went.

PS. Keep a close eye on the master while doing this. It doesn't take long to empty the tank with all 4 bleeders open!

Good luck! Rich
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Wednesday, April 14th, 2021 AT 1:48 PM
Tiny
GMCER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
94 transaction thanks for the reply!
I placed the pressure bleeder on the master cylinder again and starting at all line fittings bled them slowly one at a time, then to rr, lr, rf and lf bleed out and no air again.
I drove it about 15 miles to brake shop to have them analyze only to find them closed 15 minutes earlier. Lol
I noticed the braking improve slightly later as I headed back home. I believe that was the high spots wearing off the pads and shoes.
Pedal still going down about 3/4 and more force is needed as I approached a stop.
If I panic stomp brake pedal I get an instant feedback from the vacuum booster and then pedal will move toward the 3/4 down position because of the power boost assist.
Seems like the rear isn't applying enough but I understand that is the nature of the proportion system to keep rears from over braking.
Anyhow I will give gravity a try!
Thanks again
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Wednesday, April 14th, 2021 AT 1:48 PM
Tiny
94 TRANSAM
  • MECHANIC
  • 680 POSTS
You are welcome! And let me know how it goes.
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Wednesday, April 14th, 2021 AT 1:48 PM

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