Spark plugs

Have your check engine light checked (scanned for codes at any popular auto parts store)

Write down the exact code numbers (not just what they say they mean)

Just a wild, wild guess (without the codes) Maybe your fuel filter is stopped up, the higher demand for fuel at higher speeds may not be - being met due to it being partially stopped up. Enough fuel might get through at lower speeds. Misfire codes may show up.

This may or may not be the issue. Lots of things could affect a modern vehicle.

The codes may tell a better story, bring 'em back here!

At minimum, let us know your outcome!

The Medic

Well I do not really live close to town. Would it hurt the car to drive it to the auto store? And does the light have to be on for them to scan?

Just to add to this one I really do not know what is wrong to know if anything will be damaged by driving it. so does it just have a miss fire? if so and its not really bad you should be okay. If the light is not on it would be hit and miss reading codes with a diyer scan tool. the professional scan tools read deeper codes. so was the light on before the repair with codes?

No that is the weird thing. When I got over 50 mph the check engine light would start blinking. When I dropped it down under that, the light quit blinking and has not came back on since.

But changing the spark plugs really helped a lot though.

With that mileage I would have changed the boots/wires as well.The check engine light flashes when you have a really bad misfire. As far as what happened after that it happened too quick and not enough information to really get a starting point on that one. You can try to see if there are codes.

There was also some fluid on the driver side closest to the cab of the car, when I pulled the boot off. I soaked it up before pulling the spark plug. I want to say it looked like antifreeze?

Are you sure it is not oil? Did it smell sweet?

Kind of smelled sweet, but with oil and stuff on my hands made it kind of hard to smell.

Looked yellowish.

So was it on the outside of the boot on top of it. before you plugged the coil.

It was a little puddle at the bottom of the boot. And it was wet where the boot seals at the top.

So you think the coolant was leaking from another source or from inside the spark plug well?

Nothing else seemed wet besides inside the well. I did clean it up, and stuck a clean rag down the hole with the spark plug out and bumped the car over to see if any fluids came out and the rag was dry. Going to check it out tomorrow after work and see if there is fluid in it again.

Hopefully it is dry still.

Worse case scenario what would that mean?

If it was coolant in the spark plug well it would have to be the head leaking coolant in that area.

Hey I know it's been a couple days but I just now checked it and there was no fluid in it.

That's great news how is it running?

Well I haven started it since that day I test drove it. But I started it today and it was rough. I believe misfiring alot. , car kinda shaking when it started. Had a noise with it as well

So do we know if there were any trouble codes in the computer?

No, don't have the tool and don't have the money to take it to a shop. So I guess it'll stay in the garage for now. I'll check it again tomorrow.

You can get a cheap pocket code reader they work OK.

Oh thanks

Well I got a hold of one of those pocket code readers and it shows no codes. But then again my light isnt on

Yeah the cheap code readers don't always show all the codes in history all the different computers etc.

So basically just take it to a shop and have them run a diagnostic test?

Your going to have to see if it's missing ?Which cylinder where's the noise coming from?You said it was running good after the spark plugs were replaced?

What kind of spark plugs did you put in the car?

Motorcraft Original Equipment Single Platinum Spark Plug

Yes it was. I started it earlier and i believe it was misfiring, then it stoppedal and was barely doing it. How would I test, to see which cylinder is misfiring? The spark plugs came pretty gapped at .54 or .054. I didn't check the gap with a tool when I got them though.

This was what was in there Motorcraft platinum awsf32p. The ones I got said the same thing except the new ones said awgf 32

By unplug the coils one at a time and see how the engine running changes .

So if I unplug one and if the engine changes, then it's a bad coil/plug?

Actually

You are banking on the one that not firing to be the one that you notice no change wih. Upon pulling that one loose, nothing changes (as it already is making it run worse)

The good ones being pulled loose will make the engine run worse than it already is, Each good one pulled loose makes you have 2 problems, instead of just one.

The Medic

That's a good explanation thanks .

CJ MEDEVAC-O-PIDIA.KOM

LOL!

Have we made any headway CHEVY__88?

The Medic

Well I tried it and it just seemed to act the same. Took it out for a test drive and didn't notice it misfire or anything. Even had the pocketscanner hooked up, repeatedly scanning just to see if something would pop up. Think I'm going to try to save some money and take it to the shop and have them do a deep scan on it. Hopefully avoid any further damage if there is anything.

OK keep us posted on what is found

Hey guys I know it's been awhile, but I finally took it to a shop where they ran a test in it and they came back and said it was the oxygen sensorso after the catalytic converter and my air intake temperature sensor was out as well. So I have replaced them and now to wait and see if it fixes the problem