Some relays are making clicking sound, blinking key light, oil warning lamp and battery lamp?

MALLYBOY

MEMBER
2007 HONDA CRV
2.4L
4 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
102,567 MILES

This issue started on this vehicle after roadside electricia did wrong connection on the A/C line and it started that when you turn ignition on, the PGM-FI Relay, ECTS, PGM-FI SUB-Relay, Fuel Pump Relay will be making clicking sound and oil warning lamp and key light blinking together with the relays clicking sound. I put old ECM, battery, oil and key light did not come on. I got another ECM, and it was doing the same. What could be the cause of this? I attached the video below.

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5 Replies

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
48,363 POSTS

It looks like the security light is flashing. So, did you get the new ECM programmed to the car? If not, this is your problem. Here are the instructions on how to replace the ECM correctly in the diagrams below. Also, we should make sure the battery is in good shape. This guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

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Saturday, July 23rd, 2022 AT 10:45 AM

MALLYBOY

MEMBER
309 POSTS

So, did you get the new ECM programmed to the car?
The new ECM, I didn't use again because, when I plugged it in and turn ignition on, the same issue continues. I removed it and put another one and turned the ignition on, it continues, and I put the third one and it continued. Then I concluded that this is not ECM issue, because there's never a way three different ECM will be doing the same thing with ECM installed on the vehicle. Supposing I put ECM and that thing stopped, I will know it's from ECM and I will get one and program it to the vehicle. If you start the vehicle, it will start and after like 2 minutes it will be off. If you connect scanner, it will communicate but will not display code on ECM but display on other modules. I want to change the under-dash fuse box to see if it is from there. I attached the picture of the diagnosis below.

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Sunday, July 24th, 2022 AT 1:24 AM

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
48,363 POSTS

We need to do a CAN scan which is easier than it sounds, this scan will run through the complete car. You can get a CAN scanner from Amazon for about $30.00. here is a video to show you how. This can tell if the MICU is bad inside the under-dash fuse panel.

https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

Here is a scanner link:

https://amzn.to/3o41KcZ

Let me know what it comes up with.

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Sunday, July 24th, 2022 AT 12:04 PM

MALLYBOY

MEMBER
309 POSTS

Once again, I have come to tell you that I won.
I did not do can system scan again because this problem ceased the ECM from running self-check services (SCS) in the sense if you disconnect engine sensors and diagnosed, the scanner will not detect anything. I disconnected the throttle actuator motor and started the vehicle, the check engine light was on but still the scanner could not display any code.
Then I started by unplugging the fuse from under-hood fuse box one after the other, until fuse #11. The whole relay stopped the clicking sound. I crank the vehicle and it idled normally without stalling after 5 seconds. I checked from all data, the circuit that fuse #11 powers, I saw pgm-fi sub-relay. I diagnosed the vehicle and begin to display code. P0135, being that o2 sensor is among the circuit that fuse #11 powers. Now I am suspecting that the control side of the sub-relay from ECM has been faulty by not grounding the relay thereby shorting voltage to pgm-fi sub-relay, A/C condenser relay, pgm-fi relay 1 and 2, o2 sensor etcs relay.
Tomorrow I will do the test and repair it by grounding the control side of the relay from any ground side, just like on that Infiniti G35

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Sunday, July 31st, 2022 AT 11:39 AM

KEN L