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Car will shift sitting still, without using clutch

Tiny
ROBERT RIFFE
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 78,000 MILES
Is it the slave cylinder or what?
Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 1:19 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

Do you mean with the engine off? If it shifts only with the engine off, then chances are it's either the slave or the clutch master cylinder. The clutch master cylinder is actually supplied brake fluid from the brake master cylinder. Check to make sure there are no issues there. Confirm there are no leaks at any point.

There are no specific tests for determining which is the issue other than looking for leaks. Often times, I will simply disconnect the slave and see if the clutch master cylinder produces pressure when the clutch is depressed. If it doesn't it needs replaced. If it does, then the slave is the most likely problem.

If you need directions for replacement of either, let me know.

Take care,

Joe
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Sunday, December 1st, 2019 AT 8:49 PM
Tiny
ROBERT RIFFE
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
The car is running and I can shift into all the gears without using the clutch. And it just sits like its in neutral.
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Monday, December 2nd, 2019 AT 6:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Oh, that is totally different than I understood it. So in essence, you have no gears. First, confirm that both front axles are full engaged. I have seen them move enough that they were no longer attached in transmission.

If the axles are full engaged, something has either broken or is stuck in the release mode. Although it could be a slave that has jammed, it wouldn't be the clutch MC.

First, confirm there is no play in the axles. Then, you will need to remove the slave to confirm it isn't stuck in the actuated position.

Also, let me know if you place the trans in gear with the engine off if there is any resistance stopping the vehicle from moving as well as if there is any noise when you have the engine running and press and release the clutch.

If there is no resistance, I suspect it is an axle issue. However, it could be the slave has jammed in the release position. So, if the axles look good, remove the slave for inspection.

____________________________________

Here are directions for servicing the slave. The attached pic correlates with the directions.

____________________________________

5 SPEED MANUAL 02J
5 Speed Manual 02J

Clutch Release Mechanism, Servicing

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

1 Transmission
2 Ball stud
- 25 Nm (18 ft. Lbs.)
- Lubricate with MoS2 grease
3 Input shaft oil seal
- Replacing
4 Guide sleeve
- With vulcanized O-ring
- If damaged replace guide sleeve and O-ring together
- Lubricate guide sleeve in area of release bearing with MoS2 grease
5 Retaining spring - Secure to clutch release lever
6 Bolt
- 20 Nm (15 ft. Lbs.)
7 Clutch release lever
8 Release bearing
- Do not wash bearing out, only wipe
- Replace noisy bearings
- Lubricate surfaces which contact release lever with MoS2 grease
9 Bolt
- 20 Nm (15 ft. Lbs.)
10 Slave cylinder
11 Plunger
- Grease end of plunger with MoS2 grease
12 Assembly bolt
- Secures the clutch release lever when installing transmission
- Remove after transmission has been installed

Note: If the assembly bolt (Item 12) is not available, an M8 x 35 bolt can be used.

______________________

Number 10 in the picture is the slave cylinder.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, December 2nd, 2019 AT 4:45 PM
Tiny
ROBERT RIFFE
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
I will check in the morning. Do you have a diagram for the alternator wiring harness and does it need to be hooked up for the engine to start and run for a brief second? I have a second 2000 Beetle. Identical to other. Had to install the complete air intake system and the fuse box on battery was missing. Hope I hooked it up properly. All the lights work and the car turns over but hasn't started up. If it don't then I'll be changing out the engines. But the one with the alternator and fuse box is a better car. But not sure how to hook up alternator harness. And would like to see how the fuse box on battery is hooked up from factory. To see if I did it right. But the car turns over but hasn't started up. Diagrams for both would be nice. If you have it. Thank you for replying do need your help.
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Friday, December 6th, 2019 AT 5:57 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

I attached a picture (pic 1) of the complete charging system schematic. As far as the fuse box on the battery, see pic 2. That's the only one I have.

I hope this helps.

Let me know.
Joe
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Friday, December 6th, 2019 AT 9:53 PM
Tiny
ROBERT RIFFE
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
Hey I am back. Its been a rough one. Okay, the transmission did shift into reverse. I felt it go in gear. Now does the forward gears use a different cable to shift with. Because it might feel like it going in gear, it feels really loose. Like maybe a cable is broke possibly. I am going to take the lower mileage engine and put it in my other 2000 Beetle. Because the engine in it runs but has a pretty good water leak on the side closest to firewall. I'm not sure but I think its the head gasket. Because its coming from way up in the back above that water line or heater hose. I haven't pin pointed it. And to do an engine swap. Can I take the front clip off instead of going out the bottom. I don't have the tools to lift the body up enough to get engine out. Not even a good tree to help with a chain hoist. If I can get the engine out by taken the front clip, I can get it done.
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Monday, December 23rd, 2019 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

There are two cables. Check to see if both are moving on the transmission when shifting through the gears.

As far as the coolant leak, is it on the driver's side? It is very common for the coolant temperature sensor to leak. It is not threaded into place, but rather it is clipped in and an O-ring is what seals it. I can't tell you how many I've replaced.

As far as engine removal, I have only ever removed them through the top with a hoist. I don't think you can remove the rad support. I believe they are welded on this year.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, December 23rd, 2019 AT 10:57 PM
Tiny
ROBERT RIFFE
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
Well the leak is up in the back, close to the head. On firewall side. And it is closer to the driver side. And where is the coolant temperature sensor located? And I will check it out. That would be nice to know.
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Tuesday, December 24th, 2019 AT 10:34 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

I attached a pic below. I circled the item I'm referring to. Note that it mounts to the engine and there are other water hoses that go to it. The hoses under the housing commonly never get replaced and end up leaking. Also, note that the coolant temperature sensor is held in with a clip. If you ever replace it, replace the entire plastic housing because they rarely seal and will drive you crazy. LOL

Take care and let me know if you need anything.

Joe
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Tuesday, December 24th, 2019 AT 8:57 PM

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