Will not start only a single click

Hi,

There was a technical service bulletin (TSB) out regarding the data link connector failure. Take a look at the TSB and let me know if that has been checked or performed.

Also, if you get one click when trying to start it and nothing more, that usually indicates a weak connection or battery, faulty starter motor, or a locked engine. Have all of these things been checked?

Let me know what pin you are checking for continuity as well.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

Okay, we have no spark or fuel. We need to check a couple of fuses and other electrical components.

First, if you have a live data scanner, see if there is an RPM signal when the engine is cranking and let me know.

Next, under the hood there are two fuses we need to check for condition and if there is power to them. I attached the entire powertrain management wiring schematic below. It was two pages long, but I had to cut each page in half to make it readable for you. I did overlap them and highlighted the wiring related to the ignition coils and fuel injectors.

Start there. There is a main relay in the under-hood fuse box that powers both components. We need to confirm there is power to it and ground. The fuses are 26 and 37. Fuse 37 powers the relay and components. If you look at pic 1 below, note there is a blue wire with a red tracer. That provides a ground path for the relay to energize via the PCM. So first check the fuses, then the relay itself, and then if they are good, confirm a ground path when the key is turned on. If this fuse or relay is failing, you won't have an injector pulse or ignition spark. If there is another relay in the box that has the same part number, switch them to see if it makes a difference. If there isn't, I included a link explaining how one is checked.

Also, when checking the fuse, it is also important to confirm there is power to and from it. Here are the links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let me know what you find or if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi David,

Let me know what you find. I'm interested in knowing.

I wish you a Merry Christmas.

Take care,

Joe

Do you mean there is no power to the injectors with the key in the on position?

Tell me specifically what gets power and what doesn't and the conditions under which you are checking them. I'm a little confused at this point.

Take care and I'll watch for your reply.

Joe

Hi,

You shouldn't jump power for this circuit. Tell me, I attached a pic below and circled wires. First, is the fuse good? Is there power to and from it? Is there power out from the brown wire with an orange tracer? If the fuse is good and there is power out to the aforementioned wire, did you confirm the relay is good? If you have, check for continuity to ground via the blue wire with a red tracer. That runs to the PCM and when the PCM provides a ground path to that wire, the relay actuates, allowing power to reach the injectors. Also, note that there is a shorting link (fusible link) that could be preventing the ground path from completing. Did you check that?

I don't advise using a different power supply in this case.

Let me know.

Joe

Were you able to confirm if there is a ground path via the blue wire with a red tracer? Also, if you have the relay removed and jump pins 3 and 5 (circled in blue below), do you get power to the brown wire with an orange tracer?

Joe

Hi,

It's hard for me to determine what is happening looking at the pics. However, when you powered the brown wire, the injectors should have had power.

Let me know what you find.

Joe