Shuts off while driving

Hi,

What you are describing sounds like it could be related to the crankshaft position sensor. When they start to fail, heat has an adverse effect on them. What you could do is this. When it won't start, see if spark is lost to the plugs. Or, if the vehicle has a tachometer, see if it moves slightly when cranking. If it does and you do have spark, see if it starts for a couple of seconds using starting fluid and then stalls. If that happens, we know it is fuel related.

Before we suspect a crankshaft position sensor, take a look through this link, and let me know if it seems to mirror what you experience. I want to be sure the sensor is bad before trying to replace it. The timing belt cover needs removed to access it.

Now the starter is not hard to replace. I just looked at my manual's directions and they are extremely vague. So first, take a look through this link. It explains in general how the procedure is done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

If you look at the pic below, those are the directions I have. LOL There isn't much to go on. However, what you will need to do is this. First and very important, disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on the starter.

Next, you will need to remove the air filter and filter box. The starter is below it. Once you get that removed, disconnect the wires to the starter (carefully) and then remove the two bolts holding the starter in place. When you reinstall, it is basically the reverse procedure. However, when you connect the wires to the new starter, make sure they are not in any way touching each other. If they are, the starter will engage as soon as you connect the battery and not turn off until the battery is disconnected.

I hope this helps. Please let me know what I can do to help.

Joe

See pic below.

Hi Joe,

The stalling occurs after it has warmed up some, but even at that it may occur after being driven less than a block or two. I got the link for the start, but there is no link for the crankshaft sensor item. The car is 21 years old, and I'd suspect it is all original. We got the think is 2002 or 03. Perhaps it is heating up. Another fact just a little past history, we were charging the A/C one time, and over charged by accident. it blew the high pressure line off and it had Freon blow thought the entire cabin. Shortly after that the gas gauge started failing. shortly being perhaps less than a year. And some dials on the A/C vents cables became difficult to move. It does not have a Tachometer. It's a DE 4dr 1.5L. Auto transmission.
Thanks much thus far. yes, the manuals don't offer much on the starter, LOL.

Hi,

I'm so sorry. Here is the link. Let me know your thoughts or if you have other questions.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

By the way, I need you to add the questions related to the vents to a new thread. We try to keep them specific to one topic, so it helps others.

Here is the link to start a new thread. I hope you understand.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new



Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,

It has been sometime, and I continue to have issues with this car shutting off on me.
It somewhat cleared up at one time, but yesterday I had to tow it home.
If it were a crank shaft sensor failing, wouldn't it throw a code P0335?
Or does a 2000 model throw that code?
things I've done:
New injectors - new wires - new distributor - replaced IAC twice - check the TPS adjustment
replaced the fuel pump/injector relay (hidden in the console) - replaced the fuel pump (to find I had a bad relay)
When it dies, I can manually turn on the fuel pump and hear it running, but it wouldn't start.
I am thinking either the cheap fuel pump isn't always pumping, and I need to put my fuel pressure tester on and see what the pressure is at the fuel rail.

To replace a crank shaft sensor, do you have to remove the engine mount?
I'd change it, but again. wouldn't it throw a sensor code?

On the IAC - the car has been strange for some time and while hard to explain...the idle is rarely correct until it runs for a moment. turn on the AC and it will race and idle down to normal again. A/C on and then put in drive, it will idle down to around 350rpm and then work its way back to normal again, around 800 to 850 RPMs.
Would a throttle body go bad. I have removed and cleaned it before.
Thanks Joe.
Terry

Hi,

If it isn't starting, check to see if there is spark at the plugs. If the crankshaft position sensor is bad, you won't have spark.

Here is a link that explains how to check it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

As far as the code is concerned, it may or may not set a code. The code you mentioned is relevant for this vehicle.

Take a look through this link and let me know your thoughts:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

As far as the sensor is concerned, you should be able to replace it without removing a mount. It is on the front of the engine. See pic below.

Let me know. Also, I hope you have a great Christmas.

Take care,

Joe

Sent the spark plug link twice and not the crank sensor item.
Plus, no picture at the bottom?
And to add, it never shows the check engine light, it just shuts off.
Now I have to stop and think does it even have a check engine light, the SRS light comes on, not sure what that is about.

Hi,

Sorry about that. It's been a long day. LOL Here is the link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

The reason I wanted you to review the link is because it explains how the sensor functions based on engine speed. So, the engine could stall for a different reason (run out of fuel) which isn't caused by the sensor, so that could be causing the issue.

And it should have a CEL.

Let me know.

Joe

Now that makes sense. so, I guess I'll order one.
Have to drop the tank again anyway and patch another hole in the tank.
I'd get a new tank if I could find one, but so it goes living on a little rock in the South Pacific
Thanks Joe. I will provide an update at some point in time.
Terry

You have anything that shows what I need to remove to replace that thing?
the service manuals I have are pretty sad in that area.
Thanks

Hi,

My manual is the same on this vehicle. If I am looking at it correctly, the lower timing belt cover needs to be removed. See pic 1 below.

Pic 2, shows the lower cover I am referring to. If that needs to be removed, the crankshaft pulley needs removed first.

Before you remove the cover, confirm it is required. The labor is showing nearly 2 hours if it has AC, so that sounds like it needs to be removed.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

See pics below.

Hi Joe,

Yes, it's a big help. And I found something on YouTube about it for a 1999
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-G77EWn0bA
It moves pretty fast and didn't say what to remove, but I stopped it and looked at the bottom side with the cover off and you can see you have to remove several items.
Too bad the manuals don't cover it more, but it should never fail, right? LOL
I'll confirm it first. today I drop the gas tank "again" so I could patch some holes in it "again"
And while at it I pulled the fuel pump out and the screen was pretty clogged up. I cleaned it and am going to see if I can flush the tank some. Once I get fuel in it and will run the pump and test the pressure on it and let it run for a little to see if it was getting hot and failing to pump. Hope to do it while the tank is on the bench. I'll just run a hose from the pump and back into where the level gauge goes in.
will let you know what I find. It'll be another week before my new sensor gets here anyway.
Terry

Terry,

I'm glad it helped. Let me know when you get to it. I had a feeling it needed to be removed, but the 1.8L doesn't so I was hoping you didn't have to.

Regardless, let me know how things turn out or if I can help.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,

I will keep you posted on my ordeal. LOL
By the way, it is a 1.5L Mirage 2000 DE 4 Door w/AC and blue. LOL
The Blue was tossed in as my Later Father-in-Law. He owned a muffler shop, and we ran Super Modified open wheel at PIR, but mainly Madera, CA and Bakersfield. He'd get calls a person needs a muffler and how much. What kind of car? Red 2 door and ask the make and model, response, they'll all the same for the red one. LOL I'm sure you get questions that require a little more input than sometimes provided as well.
Take care buddy,
Terry

Hi,

LOL That is a good one. I think I'll start throwing that question in when I get calls. LOL

You take care and let me know how things turn out for you. If I don't hear from you for a few days, have a great New Year.

Joe

Hi Joe,
Got the tank back in today...1/24/24 and come to find out it was a wasted day. Added 4 gallons of ash and it started leaking like it was never patched up...guess my bad...I didn't see the putty stick in the Permatex Fiber Glass patch kit..so start that over again. What a wasted of time...LOL. I did get the crank sensor installed, and it was easy enough. Took about 5 hours and that was with smoke and coffee breaks...lol. I'm 69 and don't move as fast as I use too. I work full time still and I do my own repairs if I can. I worked for Singer Company for 10 years and ran my own shop for another 10 years before moving to the South Pacific...see the 2010 Sport Trac Drive Line reply.. : )
And I pitted crewed on an Open Wheel Super Modified for a few years...and while non of those makes me a certified auto repair person...I do okay in my car port. I have a 15 ton press, nice compressor and assortment of tools.

Anyway, I did start and run the car for a little while and it seemed much better with the crank sensor in it. Just hope that resolves it dying on the road, but got to fix that stupid gas tank first. Perhaps I can solder it up, rather than using the patch kits??
I'll keep you posted as I go along with it. Wish I could find a replacement gas tank, but it is way to old now.
As always, thank you Joe for all the support and chat
Terry

Hi,

It sound like you have the same luck I have. LOL As far as the fuel tank, there are a ton of them available in the US. I don't know how it works for shipping.

As far as the repair, be careful if you are heating the tank in any way. Let me know how things turn out for you.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,

Pulled the tank out today, Sat 1/27/24 again and I am going to test it before putting it back in this time. I was pretty confident it was sealed last time, but as mentioned...forgot to do a step...oh well...so it goes huh...LOL
Anyway, would you have a part number for this tank, see pic.
2000 Mitsubishi Mirage DE 4Dr Sedan, 1.5L
It has more smog connections than the tanks I find online. and I could use a filler neck as well. Naturally all are discontinued items - go figure. Dorman shows a tank, but not one like this.
Anyway, patching the holes again with some Permatex putty, will let that sit for a day, then think I'll cover it all with some JB Weld Metal epoxy that says fuel resistant.
Will try that before going after it with a torch and brazing rod.
Will keep you posted on the outcome.
Terry

Hi,

I attached two pics below. In my manual, the 1.5L is only used in a 2-door coupe. The 4-door sedan indicates a 1.8L engine. However, both appear to use the same fuel tank. And I looked up the part number from a dealership, and it indicates your vehicle and engine size, so I'm not sure which one is correct.

The only problem is the cost of the new one. The used one, if you can get them to ship it, would be a great price, $100.00. See the last three pics.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below. Pics 3 and 4 are from the same website. I couldn't fit it on one pic.

Here is the VIN:
JA3AY26AlYU008779
1.5L 4dr sedan DE

Hi,

I tried using the VIN, but the system says there is no matching vehicle. If I had to guess, it is likely because they offered different models where you are located. See pic below.

The best thing to do is contact a seller and have him send pictures for you to verify it will fit.

I wish I could be of more help.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Eh....try JA3AY26A1YU008779 stupid copy and paste picked up the 1 as an L...9th character error...sigh...LOL

Hi,

No problem whatsoever. I tried this one and got the same response. See pic below. I suspect it is because of the location.

Take care,

Joe

Hi:

No problem whatsoever. I tried this one and got the same response. See pic below. I suspect it is because of the location.

Take care,

Joe

Odd, this link works okay for the VIN:

https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder/Decoder

Same for Kelly Blue Book. weird.

Joe,

I tried clicking the link and got an error code. LOL See pic below. I have no idea why.

Joe

wrong post.

Hi,

I'm confused. The pic is a cracked U-joint or yoke. Is that correct?

Joe

Hi Joe,
Back to the 2000 Mirage. I'm not sure if I covered it or not, but the crank sensor is installed.
Not too bad of a job overall, but not something I'd do every day, LOL.
I should have spent a little more time on it and given the timing belt a good look over, but from what I could see of it, it looked fair enough. No cracking or signs of stress in it.
Guess the 1.5L has a camshaft sensor in the distributor. So, some posts have mentioned, and the 1.8L is outside on the head. I certainly cannot find one on this thing.
Anyway, I drove it to the hardware store the other day to get a 15mm deep well socket for that Sport Trac center bearing nuts and it seems to run okay. Little rough yet in the idle but suspect issues with the TPS or ICV. Holes in the gas tank seem to be holding this round as well. I didn't braze them up but used the Permatex putty and then the 2-part JB Weld covering all that mess of putty, LOL. So far so good, no leaks.
On the other issue of the gas gauge, I had changed that float unit twice and just gone done fussing with it again a few minutes ago. I pulled it back out of the tank and hooked it up and it read fuel levels fine...from low to almost full. so, I put it back in the tank. What I did differently is not tighten it up real tight, but just snug enough to seal the gasket to the tank.
And it is reading fine now. Perhaps one can over tighten the 3 nuts that hold it in, and it causes some sort of binding action? Mystery to me right now but shall see how it works out as I drive it around some.
I needed to order a fuel filter for it, as I cannot find the one, I had put it in a safe place I guess, LOL. Over time, I have changed the plugs, wires, injectors, and installed a new distributor as well. Need to buy another timing light too...sigh...
Hopefully I can resolve the rough idle issue and get it back to somewhat of a smooth idle again. It isn't bad until you turn on the AC and put it in gear, and it is like the ICV isn't adjusting it correctly. Anyway. thought I'd share the latest on it.
Later on, and enjoy the holiday weekend,
Terry

Hi, and thanks for the update.

If you don't notice a change in the idle speed, remove and service the idle air control valve. In addition to the part, make sure the air passage it sets into is clear and not carboned. Keep in mind, a vacuum leak can also cause a rough idle, check that as well.

Here are a couple of links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service

Let me know,

Take care,

Joe

Thanks Joe will check it all out. As a note, I have changed the IAC and cleaned the throttle body out, but perhaps I still have an issue with the throttle body. It would be like the IAC gets stuck and doesn't want to adjust in and out. I noticed it has a little tiny motor on it to sew the valve in and out as it works, or at least that is what I suspect. Perhaps I just need to replace the throttle body now. It has over 100,000 on it.
One step at a time, LOL.
Later on,
Terry

Terry,

There is an electric actuator that moves it. You are correct. When servicing this, you didn't pull or push on the pintel, correct? The threaded portion where the pintel and motor can be damaged easily.

Next, the IAC is controlled by the ECM. When you request AC or turn the steering, it is to compensate for the added load placed on the engine. Let me know if you are able to find anything. If not, we may have an electrical issue.

Take care,

Joe

Well, I don't remember right off, but I did fuss with it. Perhaps I might order a new one and start over in that area...after of course checking some things out on it.
I find it very interesting you mention the steering. LOL Talking with my local mech. Dann, whom has been in contact before with that Sport Trac and the reverse issue...anyway I was showing him how the idle would change by turning the wheel and even pumping the brake pedal would alter the idle speed. Hum...vacuum leak...I pulled the hose off the vacuum brake master cylinder and pumped it down to see if it was holding vacuum and it appear to hold okay, but I thought it was bad at one time...guess since it held zero vacuum it is okay. The brakes work fine. Perhaps I'll get a hold of Dann again and see if he still has his smoke unit to help chase down vacuum leaks.
Terry

I meant to add to all that...and I may have mentioned sometime ago...but several years ago I changed the expansion valve in this car. That was a major pain, but anyway. At the same time I installed a new condenser. Long story short, I had replaced the condenser before the expansion valve...okay...and upon charging the system...got distracted some and talking with my buddy at the moment...we over charged the thing and blew the hose off the new condenser...busted the bolt right off it that held the high pressure line...LOL..we had Fresno all over the place. Sometime after that, the instrument panel fogged up and couldn't see the odometer or trip indicator anymore...plastic issue...along with it messed up the cable to the fresh air cable on the AC box...so...now with all that in mind...all my electrical connections under the dash were exposed as well. I put in another instrument cluster unit but have had issues with the gas gauge since...I changed the gas gauge again, but leads back around to the float level perhaps...??? Anyway, there may be some electrical issues. I have even changed the ECM (computer) out once but it made no difference in things.
Matched part numbers etc...so it was the correct computer and no programing is required on this model if you match numbers up. So says the Internet...LOL... I do notice that the gas gauge is not one that snaps into position quickly, and it takes it times to get to the position it would be at for the amount of gas in the tank...if that makes sense. Normally you put the key in and all the gauges snap into position..not this one and the gas gauge...so...back to electrical perhaps ??? It does work mind you, but just not snappy like.
Terry

Hi,

That sounds electrical for sure. So, what would cause the delay? Ground problems, connector issues, a faulty cluster, and so on could be issues. I feel confident you have checked all of the basics, correct?

Joe

Ah, honestly, not sure what basics I would check...the manuals are fairly vague on some of this area. I just got a timing light the other day, so I can finally check my timing. It has been good for several years, even after installing a new distributor a few years ago now.
I lined things up with marks I made, but had to guesstimate with the new distributor since I couldn't mark it. But positioned as close as I could with the other markings, I scribed in the old one. Didn't miss or anything and seem to run okay.
I have a new IAC, TPS, and this time new gaskets. I'm going to pull the throttle body one more time and put the new stuff on. The TPS setting is a guess, but I think I seen in the manuals something about voltage, or ohm setting it.
I also got a new idle adjust screw...being it is plastic...the one in the throttle body now, if I can find it...lol, may be an issue. Again, several years ago I pulled the throttle body and cleaned it with carb cleaner and later found that isn't a good idea well too late of that one.
Perhaps the idle screw is damaged, don't know yet.
Funny, I'm on a mission to fix this thing. I've spent too much time fussing with it to give up on it now. New control arms, got the gas tank back in finally and no leaks still to date...saying that quietly... don't want it to hear me, lol.
Any tips you might provide on the IAC an TPS would be helpful.
Thanks Joe.
Terry

Hi Terry,

I attached directions below for setting the idle speed. Take a look through them and let me know if you feel they are helpful.

Let me know.

Joe

Hey Joe,

Finally fussed with that Mirage some more...installed new IAC - TPS and SAS Adjusting screw, and fuel filter. That fuel filter is a bugger to work with to say the least. Bottom fitting is a flare fitting and top is a banjo fitting. Getting the flare just right took a few tries till it wouldn't leak...LOL Little fine tuning yet to do, but I am going to need another adjusting sew - I was adjusting on it and now I cannot get it to turn again for some reason...minor details I'm sure since it is all plastic anyway.
Even after all that was installed it continued to run rough. It is firing on all four, but just rough. So I thought about it and starting unplugging the injectors as it was running. Mind you it had not thrown any codes out at all...but I came to cylinder 3 and unplugged the injector and it made no difference in idle, while the other 3 did make a difference. Ah Ha...I had my old original injectors still so I plugged in one of them and could feel it clicking...okay. Today I replace injector 3 and things smoothed right out. Little rough with AC on and in gear, but again think that is some fine tuning yet with TPS and Idle Screw perhaps. Going to order some new injectors again for giggles.
Later on Joe
Terry

Hi,

Thank you for the update. Wow, I'm surprised that it didn't set a code. However, anything is possible. LOL

Regardless, I'm glad to know you found what appears to be the primary issue. If you do plan to replace the injectors, try to get them locally at a parts store. I've been seeing a few here online that people are getting that are faulty.

Take care of yourself and let me know if I can help in any way.

Joe