Severe shifter issue and complete lockup

Tiny
MONTANATHOR92
  • MEMBER
  • 2013 DODGE DART
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 30,000 MILES
I have been dealing with electrical issues with this vehicle since about 4 months after purchase from a dodge dealership. It was a rental car for people that had their car in the shop for a while but is listed above sxt 1.4L Turbo with automatic transmission and a option to manually up shift and downshift. First it seemed to die from battery issues then when I replaced the battery it happened a week later where it would run then if it sat it wouldn't start without a jump. Found out near Christmas of last year when it died on the way to work on the highway that it apparently had a bad alternator. Which only having about 12,000 miles on it so far was kinda weird. So the dealership replaced that under warranty using my extended warranty for a $100.00 deductible which was awesome. Then when picking it up the hands free module no longer worked. After checking the accessories and things inside my car before it directly got towed to the dealership I knew it worked before it went in. So after complaining about that they offered to give me an expensive scan with very high price ranges for possible issues even though they knew my warranty covered it and I did not have to pay up front for any of that. So eventually I got that repaired because my car started dying again under similar circumstances about 3 months later after getting it back. After they took it in again with my warranty they didn't charge up front and proceeded to tell me the two problems had no connection and that my hands free module had an open circuit that drained the battery which was why it would run as long as I kept driving somewhere every day. After that I got it back and thought this was just bad luck and it should be fine. Now at around 30,000 miles and shortly before the last visit my dart started not being able to fully shift into park requiring me to shift back in forth from other gear positions until I would hear the distinct click and then I could removed my key. Many times I had to use my e brake to hold it from rolling a bit when moving back or forth when doing this and it seemed to help it stick to park position. Even if the vehicle was off it would do this and I would have to turn it back on and rinse and repeat till I got the click and it stayed in park. Yesterday when returning home from work I had depressed the gas pedal to accelerate and immediately it had increased in rpm's but I had no acceleration. It was a bit iffy but it really got bad when I stopped at the stop sign down the same road about a minute later and when I applied light pressure to see if it would accelerate the rpm's climbed again to high levels and yet no acceleration, just a slow coast. So I took my foot off the gas and guided it to the non existent shoulder on the narrow road I was on and tried to put it into park and started the same process I had been forced to for weeks and immediately after shifting it into park I turned the key to the off position and that's when it got bad. The entire series of back lit white shift lights next to the shifter turned all red and then I got a various amount of lights come on from the check engine light to the traction light. The engine had shut off but the steering wheel had locked up and could not be turned so I couldn't guide it in neutral and the car would not start back up. Tried all my normal routine things I normally do to fix the shift issue but it would not stick in park even with the e brake up. The key was stuck in the ignition and the accessories all worked but I could not access the trunk for some reason. As a last resort after requesting roadside assistance from my insurance and having someone come out to help me because my car was stuck at a busy intersection partially in the road, I got desperate and popped the hood and found something in my car to loosen the negative terminal on my battery and let it sit off for about 45 seconds then placed it back on and tightened it again. My key became free from the ignition and I was able to restart it. All the shifter lights became white again and there was no longer any check engine light or any other for that matter and the car even sounded better when I turned it on today. I did receive a letter for a recall with my specific dart about a month ago stating the shifter cable had issues and would need replaced for free by the dealership but they also stated in the letter they would start doing repairs for vehicles affected starting may 31st I believe of next year. So when I told my dodge service techs about the issues with the shifting actually staring around the time I took it in for the hands free module replacement and the letter about the recall they simply said they would not receive the parts till the stated date so they offered no solution or recommendation to the shift issues at that time for whatever reason. I am bringing it back in to them Monday at 9am in two days from writing this and the conversation I had with the tech who scheduled my appointment told me it sounded like an electrical issue and not anything to do with the recall but recommended not driving it until it was serviced again. He had to verify my warranty again and clearly knew this vehicle and eagerly scheduled me into the schedule and kept giving me run around about what it could be or exactly what they wanted to do with it or what they could do. I know this is a long read but any guidance on what this issue could be and how bad off this vehicle really is considering it's had an alternator and hands free module replaced within its first 30,000 miles would be greatly appreciated. I want to know if I have a good enough position as the owner to either pursue legal action or demand the dealership give it a comprehensive check up on their dime because as handy as my extended warranty is with only 100 deductible for everything above the tires it is becoming expensive and dangerous considering what could have happened and especially if I had my kids with me. Thank you in advance for any information.

-Montana
Saturday, August 24th, 2019 AT 12:38 PM

1 Reply

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Hello,

Thank you for the detailed question. this is common when the BCM goes out. To be sure we should do a CAN scan. here is a video that shows how it is done then check out the diagrams below:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 2:55 PM

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