1999 Saturn SL2 weird clicking from the engine?

Tiny
COOLAIDMAN07
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  • 1999 SATURN SL2
Noises problem
1999 Saturn SL2 Front Wheel Drive Automatic

my car is makeing a click noise, the noise gets progressivly worse the higher the RPM, and my exauhst at time starts to stink and is sometimes a little bit foggy coming out, and to add on to that I have a weird oil leak. I just replaced the oil pan but yet oil is still leaking out somewhere. The car still runs fine and still gets me around but I want this car to last. So do you have any idea/suggesions for me? I really need to figure this out and with as little money as possible
Tuesday, August 10th, 2010 AT 2:43 PM

17 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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What color smoke come's out the tail pipe?Also when do you see it idle etc?Where is the ticking coming from?Under the valve cover?
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Tuesday, August 10th, 2010 AT 5:20 PM
Tiny
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The smoke is a light white and its fairly thin its not to thick, the ticking sounds like its on the back lower part of the engine. When I start the car it revs up to about 1800 RPM then it goes back down to under 1000 after a few seconds.
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 2:13 AM
Tiny
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If you have oil leaking where the transmission and engine meet and you already resealed the oil pan then most likely the rear main is leaking. As far as the clicking I would see if your canister purge solenoid is clicking that is on the back of the block by the starter. Does the smoke look like oil or steam?
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 3:54 PM
Tiny
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The smoke looks like oilish and the clicking is getting worse especially at high RPM. The higher the RPM the louder it is.
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 8:35 PM
Tiny
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Pull off one spark plug wire at a time with it running and see if the noise goes away becareful not to get shocked.
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 9:32 PM
Tiny
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I did and once I removed the second spark plug wire the noise went away. What does that mean? All the others once removed still made the noise, only the second one had an efect.
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Thursday, August 12th, 2010 AT 3:04 PM
Tiny
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That mean's that you have a problem with your rod or piston on that cylinder.
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Thursday, August 12th, 2010 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
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How do I fix it? If its a rod is it hard to fix? How much will it cost?
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Thursday, August 12th, 2010 AT 4:17 PM
Tiny
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Can I still drive the car? Or is it bad?
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Thursday, August 12th, 2010 AT 4:19 PM
Tiny
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Most likely your rod bearing is starting to spin. If you keep driving it you could damage your crank. You would have to remove your oil pan and pop off the rod cap and have a look at the rod bearing. If you don't find your problem there then you will have to dig deeper. With the smoking and the knocking looks like your motor isn't doing to hot.
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Thursday, August 12th, 2010 AT 4:31 PM
Tiny
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Am I going to need any specialized tools? If its not the rod what is it?
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Thursday, August 12th, 2010 AT 5:12 PM
Tiny
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How much is this going to cost if I fix it?
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Thursday, August 12th, 2010 AT 5:51 PM
Tiny
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It's going to be your rod bearing or where your rod connects to your piston. Or it could be the piston itself slapping in the bore. You would first have to remove the oil pan no special tool's need there and inspect the rod bearing rod and crank.I couldn't even begin to give you a price of what it would cost to repair. Because I don't know if the crank is damaged or rod damage. If nothing look's bad on the bottom end then you would have to take the head off and pop the piston out and have a look there. If you were to take it some where your looking at like 4-5hrs time's 80-100 per hr?For tear down to start for checking the bottom end plus part's. The sky's the limit from there and you still will have a smoking car.
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Thursday, August 12th, 2010 AT 6:05 PM
Tiny
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How do I remove the oil pan?
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Thursday, August 12th, 2010 AT 6:33 PM
Tiny
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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1999_SL2_oil_pan_removal_part1_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1999_SL2_oil_pan_removal_part2_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1999_SL2_oil_pan_removal_part3_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1999_SL2_oil_pan_removal_part4_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1999_SL2_oil_pan_removal_part5_1.jpg


There you go.
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Thursday, August 12th, 2010 AT 6:47 PM
Tiny
COOLAIDMAN07
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Where did you get those pictures? So I can see them better, those are really pore quality
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Wednesday, October 6th, 2010 AT 2:28 PM
Tiny
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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1999_SL2_oil_pan_replacement_part1_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1999_SL2_oil_pan_replacement_part2_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1999_SL2_oil_pan_replacement_part3_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1999_SL2_oil_pan_replacement_part4_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1999_SL2_oil_pan_replacement_part5_1.jpg


1. Remove the front exhaust pipe.

2. Remove the engine stiffening bracket and flywheel cover.

3. Remove the right-hand side tire, splash shield and vibration damper.
4. Loosen the four front motor mount bolts. Back out the bolts approximately 12 mm (1/2 in.).
5. Drain oil.
6. Remove all the oil pan bolts.

IMPORTANT: An 8 mm flex socket can be used to access the rear oil pan bolt heads next to the flywheel on vehicles with manual transaxles.

7. Pry the front engine mount away from the cylinder block to allow for oil pan removal.

8. Drive the RTV removal tool sharp edge between the pan and block.
9. Drive the tool around the pan, shearing the seam. After the pan is loosened, use a rubber mallet and bump the pan sideways to loosen it.
The picture's are on a pay site i enhanced them for you sorry about that.
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Thursday, October 7th, 2010 AT 3:26 PM

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