Where Is the HVAC Blower Motor Resistor Located?

Your truck doesn't have a blower resistor, it uses a blower control module which os the black box attached to the blower motor in your picture. In the attached you will find the wiring diagram. Unplug the harness with the white plug, it should have a Black w violet, Yellow w Green and a white w violet in it. With the key on and blower speed on there should be battery voltage if you connect a test light or meter between the Black and Yellow wires. If you have that then the next test needs a scope but if you have a meter you can connect it between the White w violet and battery, Now adjust the blower speed and see if the meter changes, then try with the meter on the White violet and the Black. Same thing. The White w violet is a PWM signal and usually one connection or the other will show a voltage change, on a scope you could watch it but some meters can pick it up.
If you have the powers and control signal then you replace the complete blower motor assembly as the front control unit isn't sold as a replacement part. The rear one is but it's a different unit.
Now it's possible that there is no signal to the blower module, in that case you replace the dash control unit. That is probably why the price is so high, the list on the control head is $1159.00

So there is no more blower motor resistor in this vehicle, there is a solid state speed control module that is replaced with the blower motor, (all in one) So, I would check the fuse #20 - 40 amp in the fuse panel under the hood first. This video will help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-xNK79Wa-w

Next, there is a blower motor control relay in the same fuse panel under the hood on the right side. Here is the blower motor wiring diagram so you can see for yourself how the system works. If this is okay I would check the blower motor ground which this guide can help with

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-automotive-hvac-system-blower-fan-motor-a-detailed/

Next, the dealer is talking about the FCIM (front controls interface module) which is expensive so I would do these other checks first. Also, there is an outside chance you got a defective blower motor, can I ask what brand it is? Check out the images (below). Please upload an image or a short video in your response, so I can see what's going on. Thanks for the first image.

Thank you, I was able to test the plug going into blower motor and got 14.2v and then when when moved prongs to other wires started low 40’s and went up to 96 as I increased fan speed, so power is getting to blower motor. It was a replacement off Amazon A-naftully…I’m going to try and find one in a junk yard for cheaper before buying OEM on the next one. Just confused as it eventually kicks on while driving but after thought and talking to a friend the air coming in from outside could spin the motor enough to get it started and then keeps going on own. All the fuses were fine. Going to try checking the voltage on relay also when I get more time.
Thank you for your help!

Yep, those numbers show it has power and control. The only time I buy electronic parts off amazon or Ebay is if they are the absolute last resort. Even then I buy knowing I'll likely need to repair something first. Far too many scams and complaints. I like boneyard parts, especially if you get them off a wreck, The reason I like wrecks? They were in use when they were hit so the undamaged parts are probably good. For online purchasing I tend to use Rock Auto if I'm in no rush. Otherwise it's OEM or the local parts places (Fisher, NAPA, United Auto, and a couple local places that are old school parts stores)
File a complaint and see what the seller does. Please let us know what you end up doing.