Replace fuel injector problem

Tiny
THECROSS22
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CADILLAC CTS
  • 3.6L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 131,000 MILES
I am trying to replace fuel injector number one. Everything I have read here says to relieve fuel pressure first. But nothing says how! I have looked elsewhere and other places either did not mention it at all or did not mention how either. So, how do you relieve fuel pressure?

There is a knob on the backside on top of a metal tube. What is that and what does it do? Does it relieve fuel pressure? Does it cut on and off fuel to injectors? I do not think so, because I have turned it all the way on and off and it does not seem to change anything that I can tell. But I do need to know if it needs to be close or opened (whether it does anything or not)?

My other problem is (which is far greater), I replaced the fuel injector number one and put it all back together. When putting the fuel rail back in, I made sure they all lined up, but when I tried to push down, one side or the other would put up and get unaligned. So, I lined the all up and tightened the bolts down and they seem to go down into the intake, but I worried if they were seated or not.

So I finished putting it all together and hooked the battery back up and turned the key over and waited twenty seconds and then cranked the car. It cranked fairly normal, but still sounded rough. I started backing out of garage to take a test drive. But I noticed while rolling downhill in the short driveway, that I was leaving a trail of gas.

It was spewing gas from underneath the car, right where the engine meets the transmission. I am fairly certain it is coming from the fuel injectors and traveling down the backside of the engine at the firewall. But naturally I cannot see it from the top with everything back together. Even shining a light through the upper intake manifold I could see one of the injectors (I think one) and I did not see any liquid, but who knows.

Pulled it back in the garage and took the Upper Intake manifold back off. Number five looks wet. The other do not. But I have a fan blowing across the front of the car and it could have dried the others and just not five, who knows.

Does anyone have a suggestion? Could one fuel Injector spew a massive amount of fuel out? Or could it be all of them or some of them and I cannot tell? Or is it somewhere else, like the knob I pointed to? Or could the upper intake manifold not have been sealed properly? I do not think that has anything to do with fuel, I just want to cover all my bases. Could it pinch or displace the fuel rod somehow?
Thursday, November 2nd, 2017 AT 10:58 AM

11 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
Very easy for one injector o-ring to be out of position or roll over and leak and dump a lot of gas fast. Normally you apply a thin coat of oil onto the o-rings to get them to slide in easier. From your description I think you either rolled an o-ring or sheared some of it off.

Relieving pressure is easy. One method, Pull the fuel pump relay, start the engine and it will run out of pressure and stall. Another is to install a pressure test gauge and use its bleed line to drain the pressure.

The "knob" is the cap for the pressure test port. Under it is a valve like a tire valve. It is the place you would screw on the pressure test gauge.

Why did you replace just the one injector?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, November 2nd, 2017 AT 8:15 PM
Tiny
THECROSS22
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Running rough, check engine light on. Went to Autozone and they checked the code and it was one and five misfiring. They suggested I replace one and five coil plugs. So I did, along with the spark plugs at one and five as well.

Still ran rough and had check engine light on. Went back to Autozone and they said it still showed misfire on one. So they suggested I replace coil plug number two. I felt like that was chasing around aimlessly. So I took it to Gerald’s Tire and they ran it for me and got number one misfire; but then the mechanic listened with a stethoscope to each cylinder and said number one injector was not working.

So I replaced number one injector but had the gas leak. So I took it all apart and upon pulling each injector out: Five had a torn seal and four was completely missing one seal. I wonder if both happened when I pulled them out. But I replaced the seals and put it all back together and no leak.

It runs better; but still a little rough and the check engine light is still on. Fixing to go back to Autozone and see what the code is.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, November 3rd, 2017 AT 5:40 AM
Tiny
THECROSS22
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Code is: P2544 Torque Management Request Input Signal?A?

I assume P2544 is the car's code and all the rest is Autozone's interpretation? But none of the guys working there knew what that meant or what to do. Googling it thus far as not helped.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, November 3rd, 2017 AT 7:45 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
P2544 is related to how the car shifts. To make the shifts in the gears smoother the TCM requests that the ECM reduces engine power momentarily as the transmission shifts. The code is set when the ECM tells the TCM that it cannot reduce power.
To deal with the code you need a scan tool that can talk to the TCM. This is because this code can be an actual failure in the CAN bus talking between the modules or a faulty TCM and without the scan tool you will not know which is the problem.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, November 3rd, 2017 AT 8:22 AM
Tiny
THECROSS22
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I have a Chevrolet mechanic friend of a friend who has a scanner and can look at it the middle of next week. Until I thought I would continue to see what I could do on my own. I am think about changing the "vapor canister purge valve/solenoid". Every time I get under the hood to do any of this stuff, I think that thing looks wobbly and just I do not know. Every time I look at it, I think that thing needs to be replaced. So I looked it up this morning and it's a "vapor canister purge valve/solenoid". Say that three times fast! But I have read that it can cause rough idle and check engine lights. It is not expensive, $50.00.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, November 3rd, 2017 AT 9:47 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
It can but unless it is actually causing an issue I would not replace it. These days I get more bad "new" parts than ever before. Nothing like putting on a new part and having it be worse than the old one you took off.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, November 3rd, 2017 AT 3:27 PM
Tiny
THECROSS22
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I agree. Although I will do it for an OEM, which is what I got. It may run a little better; but it could also have been because it had warmed up. The check engine light is still on; but I haven't disconnected the battery yet. I stopped and got premium gas even though I had half a tank. I had put some fuel injector cleaner in it and wanted to add some premium gas to do everything I can.

Part of me wishes I had replaced all the injectors and the fuel plugs and spark plugs too. Cause I'l never know for sure if they are part of the problem. But then I'd wander if it's the harness, etc.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, November 3rd, 2017 AT 4:45 PM
Tiny
THECROSS22
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
It’s not fixed. Still runs rough. Haven’t figured out what to do about the P2544 code.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, November 5th, 2017 AT 6:35 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
Get the rough running fixed first. For that you need a good scan tool or the ability to watch the misfire monitors and verify what it causing the roughness.

I would erase the code then see if it returns. It can be caused by so many things that you could replace every module and wire and still miss the actual problem.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, November 5th, 2017 AT 10:39 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,256 POSTS
Let's start from scratch and do a compression test while looking at each spark plug to look for one that has different coloring light black or dark grey.

Here are a few guides to help us see whats going on

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-spark-plugs

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 8th, 2017 AT 11:43 AM
Tiny
THECROSS22
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
How do you clear the change oil soon message after an oil change?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 8th, 2017 AT 12:13 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links