Door locking not working

check battery in remote and go to auto parts to see if remote works.they can test it. otherwise it will need to be scanned for codes

Hi ALI97NM,

If you decide you would like to conduct the scan yourself here is a link to an article that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself, also I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning. Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Once you have the codes please get back to us so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.com.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

1997 Maxima SE, Power everything.
It began with the passenger door not locking with the other doors (the knob shows almost locked). To lock it, it had to be "manually" locked. Now, it won't lock or unlock, with power or manually. Can "unlock" with manual lock knob but the door stays locked, and now we can't open it because it stays perpetually locked! Felt the lock mechanism move up and down with slim-jim so I think the rod from the knob to the pivot point is working, from there down to the lock, I can't tell. NOW, even when the power locks are used, the knobs show "locked", the "locking noise" is made, but the driver's door will still open anyway; but not the passenger's!! In case it was a power problem, which I think it is (tell you why in a sec), I removed all "battery" fuses, since none said they were for the door locks, but none killed the power to the locks. I think it is a power problem because I noticed that when I lock the driver's door with the knob, it stays in the "locking" mode for a second or two, instead of just locking and releasing (like you were holding down the lock button too long and it was still getting power). Long story but I tried to pre-answer as much as I could! P.S. - I made a donation, as anyone who uses you should! I didn't know you guys were here and even if you can't fix this problem, there have been many more times I could have used you!! This is an excellent idea!

Welcome, and thanks for the acknowledgement of our time. Did you pull #56?

Under hood box.

HAHA! No, forgot about the ones under the hood! Thanks, I'll try that tonight - at least it will let me know if it is a power problem or not. Thanks!
Tony

OK, here is where I am. I pulled the fuse and the power was cut for the locks. The passenger's door is still locked, the driver's door is still unlocked, no matter what you do with the knobs. Putting the power back to the locks does this: Doors "lock" but are still in the same configuration as stated above (the rear doors seem to be working as they are supposed to). When I unlock the doors, with the remote, the doors unlock but then quickly relock, although they aren't really locking and unlocking!! (except for the rear doors!) I am about ready to pry the freakin' passenger's door open just so I win!! I don't mind bringing it to a mechanic but I should be able to do what they would have to do to get the door open! As stated in my original post, a "slim-jim" doesn't do it, the mechanism (at the pivot point) is moving but doesn't affect the door. I pulled the driver's door panel off and played with it, the door lock seems to be working fine but, of course, it is not! All the rods move when moved but the door is not locked.

LMAO! You need to get into the panel. Since the driver's door panel is off, check that actuator with this procedure. I expect it will respond and would then expect the control module to be at fault.

The windows and door locks do not work on all doors and windows the sunroof and the automatic seat still work the fuses have been checked and are all okay please help point me in the right direction.

have this scanned for codes it may be body module problem. also check circuit breaker 2 under hood fuse box as it may not be going through that or kicking out due to a short. if you have an assistant work the window button and you hear or feel breaker kick out you have a short in system someplace.

Hi Dvwoodii,

Here is a link to an article that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself, also I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning. Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com. Once you have the codes please get back to us so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.com.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

Electrical problem
1995 Nissan Maxima Automatic 130000 miles

The power locks, power windows, radio, and the lights in the visors stopped working before replacing the alternator and battery. What else could it be?

start with the interior fuses under the dash,then get a book and look for the fusible links

Hi,
I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima base model, V6, with 150,000 miles. When someone shuts the passenger side front door, all other doors automatically lock except the front passengers side. It doesn't always happen, but most of the time that door is shut, it will lock all others. Sometimes when I push up the switch (on drivers side door control panel) to unlock the doors from the inside of the car, they all automatically lock right back. I can do it again to unlock and then they will usually stay inlocked. I can also double turn the key to unlock all doors (from the outside of the car) and sometimes they will all lock right back. Do you have any ideas what might be wrong?
Thank you

[quote:3323537527="ddc"]Hi,
I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima base model, V6, with 150,000 miles. When someone shuts the passenger side front door, all other doors automatically lock except the front passengers side. It doesn't always happen, but most of the time that door is shut, it will lock all others. Sometimes when I push up the switch (on drivers side door control panel) to unlock the doors from the inside of the car, they all automatically lock right back. I can do it again to unlock and then they will usually stay inlocked. I can also double turn the key to unlock all doors (from the outside of the car) and sometimes they will all lock right back. Do you have any ideas what might be wrong?
Thank you[/quote:3323537527]


I have a 98 Nissan Maxima SE. I am experiencing the same exact problem as you, except I have the problem whenever someone shuts the front driver side door. Also whenever i try to lock the locks, they lock for half a second and unlock bac. However, it only happens to me during the winter time (in cold temperatures). Every late fall, the problem comes back and stays until early spring. I don't know what the solution is either.

Hi, thanks for the reply. I haven't fixed my problem yet. MY husband took the door panel off and unplugged and re-plugged everthing back in. It seemed to help for a few days, but it started back. I dread taking it to the dealer because I know it will cost a small fortune to get it fixed. Good luck to you.

My 1993 Nissan Maxima GXE criuse control will no longer function (on same relay as horn & the horn does work). The automatic door locks worked intermittently and now doesn't work at all either. The car (256k miles) has automatic trans & works very well except for these 2 issues. Any suggestions?

Obviously, you made a mistake and I won't dwell on how there had to be a better way to remedy the situation, such as pulling the oil plug under the car. Now the problem. The dipstick goes directly in to the oil pan, so...... The part is laying in the pan and is getting thrashed about with the oil and the crankshaft. It could do nothing but I would not want it in the pan. I don't know the size or length of the tubing but it must be fairly small in diameter. My first recommendation is to drain the oil and use a small wire to feel around in side the pan to possibly grab the tubing. If that does not work you will need to invest some funds in to dropping the oil pan.

Electrical problem 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 180000 miles
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I bought my Maxima recently and the power locks were out when I purchased it. So I took it to a car audio and alarm shop and they checked it out, but the only thing they checked was the driver side master switch and the fuses and I already knew that wasn't the problem. Also when I push the power lock switch there's a clicking noise coming from underneath the steering wheel, it some sort of relay that says " power door lock timer" it is a little black box. but I went to a junk yard to replace the power door lock timer and it did the same clicking sound. also my car has a keypad right below the outside handle on the driver and passenger side that has a code to lock and unlock your car without the key, so i don't know if maybe that has something to do with it because it doesn't work either. If anyone has an idea i would appreciate any type of feedback. I've heard anywhere from the door lock motor to a relay or even some sort of fuse.

Hi jpballa,

The timer is controlled by the door lock control unit which is a separate unit. I believe it is located in the door panel or master switch. Check the driver door wires and connectors at the door pillar.

I m having the same problem. We had to change the ignition switch it came with new key. Does that have something to do with it. Also master switch works just wont lock from the master. everything else works like windows.

My boy just bought a 92 Maxima wih 50k miles all original. GXE auto. He has some weird gremlins with the alarm. Sometimes it will be going off and he cannot get it to go off and start the car. We thought it was because he didn't have the original remotes. We bought this: 2101L Avital 1-Way Vehicle Keyless Entry System but still its not working. Only the trunk works. The installer said you need a lock timer. So I bought 7 of these 1990-1996 Nissan 300zx door lock timer module 28451 F9901. The installer tried all 7 and none of them helped. Has anyone had this problem. I don't even know what to call it other than lock issue. The main lock switch also doesn't work manually. We doing care about the inside locks. Just to get a remote keyless entry to work would be great. The car has low mileage and would like to keep I around as long as possible. Thanks any help is much appreciated. Cannot open door locks. Plus have to manually lock all doors. Trunk is only item that works 100%. Locking and unlocking the doors with the supplied avital emotes sometimes works but that's like 1% of the time.

Hello,

It sounds like the main switch is bad but to be sure here is a wiring diagram (below) of the system, it looks pretty straight forward.

Here are a couple of guide to show you how to do some testing

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

Hi:

My power windows and power door locks stopped working today. They both work from buttons on the drivers door.

Do they work from the drivers door or not working at all? I dont understand. Check fuse -Z in the fuse block and test for power at the circuit breaker#1. Both systems run off the same power feeds

my power windows and power door locks don't work from anywhere. this is a 1990 maxima, i used to use the panel on the drivers door to lock the doors and close and open the windows.

Get a test light and check the fuses and for power at circuit breaker #1

are the fuses in the engine compartment? I don't see any fuses for the windows or locks under the left side dash.

Did you seea fuse labeled "Z"? or a silver circuit breaker in the fuse block? If not look under hood next to battery

My ‘96 Maxima suddenly lost window control on all 4 doors and power lock no longer working while using switch on driver door. The individual control on each door also fails to operate the windows, but I can lock and unlock all, but driver door, using remote from original security system

The driver’s door window was smashed last night by someone while trying to steal GPS unit (fortunately only GPS bracket was in the car attached to windshield). Technician tried to replace the glass and was not able to roll it down. Everything was working a day before.

Fuses look normal. I tried to swap main windows fuse (the 30A green one under the hood), but still no luck. No damage to internal wiring notes.

Than you for any help you can give

[quote:dfa36f3b2d="Alex1996"]My ‘96 Maxima suddenly lost window control on all 4 doors and power lock no longer working while using switch on driver door. The individual control on each door also fails to operate the windows, but I can lock and unlock all, but driver door, using remote from original security system

The driver’s door window was smashed last night by someone while trying to steal GPS unit (fortunately only GPS bracket was in the car attached to windshield). Technician tried to replace the glass and was not able to roll it down. Everything was working a day before.

Fuses look normal. I tried to swap main windows fuse (the 30A green one under the hood), but still no luck. No damage to internal wiring notes.

Than you for any help you can give[/quote:dfa36f3b2d]

Hello !!

looks to me like you have a damage control or wiring on the Driver`s door...
That its the main unit and controls all four doors
check the power wire that feeds the control (i think that same wire feeds the power lock) use a 12 volt light tester and check for power...
I`m almost positive that the problem is in there !

let us Know !!

Hi Fisherman

Than you for you help!

Yes, it was a control module from driver door. How it's broke we don't know, but it is some electronics involved (this module has a PCB inside) and apparently something went wrong there

Thanks again!

[quote:35ef78de52="Alex1996"]Hi Fisherman

Than you for you help!

Yes, it was a control module from driver door. How it's broke we don't know, but it is some electronics involved (this module has a PCB inside) and apparently something went wrong there

Thanks again![/quote:35ef78de52]

Hello!!

Thank you for choose 2Carpros !!

We`re Glad to be at your service!

Good Luck!

My 96 maxima has a problem where I locks doors, either I push the lock button, use the key, or the remote to lock the doors, however the drivers side door doesn't seem to stay locked. Even though it seems like its locked and everything seems fine, anyone can go up to the drivers side and open the door and it will open. Could it be the door lock actuator that doesn't allow the door to remain locked? Please help me!

There's two possibilities. The lock part of the latch assembly could be broken so even though the manual knob and the linkages move, the lock isn't engaging. You'd have to replace the latch assembly for that. A linkage could also be disconnected. That would be more common on older cars where the lock motor was separate from the latch. On newer cars that motor is built into the latch. On those, if a linkage is disconnected, the manual knob won't work but the power lock would. '96 is about the time many manufacturers were switching over to latch assemblies with the lock motor built in. You'll have to pop the trim panel off to check if a linkage is disconnected or if the latch isn't working.

Car door locks (keys) require too much force to rotate key. Afraid will break key in lock.
Used graphite powder, did not help.

Check for stiff connections inside door panel. If linkages lacks lubrication, they would require additional force to turn the key. H

If wiggling the key allows easier turning, the key lock cylinder/tumblers are bad and you would have to get it repaired/replaced to resolve problem.

the problem is with the door lock .When I lock it from the inside and when its all locked, it still opens, i guess something is blocking the lock from the inside to lock all the way but, what can i do to lock it all the way?

I have followed your instructions and went as far as cleaning all of the battery terminals with baking soda and a steel brush powered by a power-drill.

The cables you have told me to concentrate on were cleaned to the best of my ability. The female connector, suprisingly, had tan-ish orange subtance with the consistency of runny gel. I have taken the liberty of cleaning out the female connector of this substance. Once more, I have steel brush cleaned the contacts of the cables you have pointed out for me to clean.

Interestingly, my vehicle actually sounded better and ran significantly better than last time. After a 2 hour torture-drive-test, the vehicle has not stalled. Sadly, however, the engine continues to idle pretty rough and each time it idles rough, I can notice the electricity in my car pulsate from each rough point during idling.

Any ideas about the rough idling??

**Will be cleaning the female connector near the radiator core more thoroughly and steel-brush/sand-paper clean the male connector tomorrow**

Hhmm..

I tried to start my car with in the morning and, sadly, the fuel pump did not engage upon starting. Thus, my car is dead once again.

I will aqcuire the instrument required to pull off codes from the PCM. I just recently had a friend stop by to pick me up and decided to look at my vehicle. She came to the conclusion that my engine was not recieving sufficient spark. After testing my battery (Full Power) and checked the connections, we could not figure out the possible causes. I had my ICM (Ignition Control Module) replaced nearly 2 years ago, is it possible that the ICM is going bad again?

I will attempt to pull off codes from my car's computer and see what other problems I have over looked.

~ Tarsus

After toiling with the car the two whole days, I have found out my problem.

There apparently was no power flowing to the fuel pump, however, with my father's assistance, we determined that the fuel pump was functioning by by-passing the CCRM. We have also determined that the fuel-pump relay inside the CCRM was functioning well. We have narrowed down the entire problem to a tiny little piece that caused the random stalls and the fuel-pump problems; the FUSABLE LINK. (Cable connection with a fuse connected inside the wiring)

Also, I had discovered the source of the rough idling. It seems that the first cylinder's spark plug was not connected properly. After reconnecting that cylinder, my engine sounded alot more different and powerful than it used to sound and operate. The idling significantly improved a GREAT deal.

I hope this will help any other owners of Ford Tempos. Many mechanics could not find out the problem that was plauging my car and, with my father (An accomplished Electrical Engineer), we have narrowed the cause of this problem to a tiny component.

Thanks for all the help you all!

~ Tarsus