Rear door lock actuator clicks but no movement

Tiny
ROLII
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 GMC YUKON
  • 6.0L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 138,000 MILES
I replaced the actuator however the actuator does nothing. I do have 12 volts going to the plug for the actuator. Any ideas?
Thursday, October 3rd, 2019 AT 8:34 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi,

If you have 12 volts going to the actuator, then either you have a terminal issue where the 12 volts is not getting to the actuator which is unlikely. Or you got a bad actuator. Is this the same thing that the last one did? I am not one to assume a part is bad out of the box but it does happen. Especially from some of these large parts retailers because people get the part, and then return it if it didn't fix their issue. I have even found used parts returned which means someone returned their old faulty part as if it was the new one that they just didn't use. Sad but true.

So here is the wiring diagram and this is a simple relay for lock and unlock depending on which button is pressed it reverse voltage. So if you have 12 volts, then I would return the part and get another one before you condemn anything else.

Let me know what you find and we can go from there.
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Thursday, October 3rd, 2019 AT 5:49 PM
Tiny
ROLII
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I jumpered 12volts from the battery to the new actuator and it works fine however still when connected to the rear hatch harness it does nothing. I did check and I am getting volts when the door lock buttons are pressed. Any more thoughts? And thanks for you time in this matter.
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Friday, October 4th, 2019 AT 7:03 PM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
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What is the voltage you are getting at the actuator when pressing the button? If you just used a test light, I suspect you have high resistance in the harness which is causing you to not get full voltage to the actuator. So it works when you give it 12 volts but if you have high resistance in the harness, then you are not getting 12 volts because something is robbing the voltage.
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Saturday, October 5th, 2019 AT 6:53 PM
Tiny
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I am getting 10 to 11 volts. Do you have any suggestions on where I should look for the short?
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Sunday, October 6th, 2019 AT 10:20 AM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
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Unfortunately, it may not be a short. It could just be the wiring is old and has high resistance.

If it were me, since it is only two wires, I would take the wiring diagram that I gave earlier and just run two new wires so that you bypass where ever the issue is. This is much easier than trying to trace wiring or look for an issue. If it were only a foot or two of wiring that is fine but in this case you are going to be looking for a needle in a haystack.

Just cut each wire about 3 inches from each component and run the new wire from there and just let the old wire alone in the harness. Then just zip tie the new wires to the harness so they are secure. You can wrap them in some of that plastic wiring casing if you want just to protect them.

I gave you an illustration on the diagram to try and help it make sense. Let me know if it doesn't. Thanks
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+1
Sunday, October 6th, 2019 AT 6:54 PM
Tiny
ROLII
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Your suggestion worked. The lock now works. Thanks for you time and effort in this matter.
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Monday, October 14th, 2019 AT 9:37 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
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Great news. Thanks for the update. That will surely help others that have similar issues. Please come back and use 2CarPros on any future issues. Thanks again.
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Monday, October 14th, 2019 AT 5:11 PM

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