Really hard to start

Tiny
ASHLEY ABRAHAMSON
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 JEEP LIBERTY
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 123,000 MILES
Started out sporadic, becoming very consistent. I try to start the car, it cranks and will keep cranking with my hand off the key. I have to take the key out to get it to stop. Occasionally it seems like it catches and is going to start but it sputters out after a couple seconds. Yesterday I was able get it to start with my remote start when I couldn’t use the key but I don’t know if that was just luck or not. It can take 6-10 tries to get the thing started. Any ideas on what to look at? I’m relating info to my boyfriend because I know very little about this.
Thursday, June 27th, 2019 AT 4:58 AM

1 Reply

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

My first suspect is low fuel pressure. Try this trick:

1) Turn the key from off to the run position (engine off) and count to 5
2) Repeat step one 3 times. On the 4th time, see if it starts.

Also, here is a link that explains how to check fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. Pic 1 correlates with these directions and pressure specifications are included in the directions. If you don't have one, often times a parts store will lend / rent a fuel pressure gauge to you.
__________________________

FUEL PUMP PRESSURE TEST
Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump Capacity Test, Fuel Pressure Leak Down Test and Fuel Pump Amperage Test found elsewhere in this group.

Check Valve Operation: The bottom section of the fuel pump module contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel flow back into the tank and to maintain fuel supply line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not operational. It is also used to keep the fuel supply line full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After the vehicle has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will remain in fuel supply line between the check valve and fuel injectors. Fuel pressure that has dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle (engine OFF) is a normal condition.

When the electric fuel pump is activated, fuel pressure should immediately (1-2 seconds) rise to specification.

The fuel system is equipped with a separate fuel pump module mounted, fuel pressure regulator. The fuel filter is remotely mounted. The fuel pressure regulator is not controlled by engine vacuum.

WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER CONSTANT FUEL PRESSURE EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. BEFORE DISCONNECTING FUEL LINE AT FUEL RAIL, THIS PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED. REFER TO THE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE PROCEDURE.

Fig.20 Fuel Pressure Test Gauge (Typical Gauge Installation At Test Port)
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

1. Remove protective cap at fuel rail test port. Connect the 0 - 414 kPa (0 - 60 psi) fuel pressure gauge (from gauge set 5069) to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail. The DRB III Scan Tool along with the PEP module, the 500 psi pressure transducer, and the transducer-to-test port adapter may also be used in place of the fuel pressure gauge.
2. Start and warm engine and note pressure gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be 339 + 34 kPa (49.2 + 5 psi) at idle.
3. If engine runs, but pressure is below 44.2 psi, check for a kinked fuel supply line somewhere between fuel rail and fuel pump module. If line is not kinked, but specifications for either the Fuel Pump Capacity, Fuel Pump Amperage or Fuel Pressure Leak Down Tests were not met, replace lower section of fuel pump module. Refer to Fuel Pump Module Removal/Installation.
4. If operating pressure is above 54.2 psi, electric fuel pump is OK, but fuel pressure regulator is defective. Replace lower section of fuel pump module. Refer to Fuel Pump Module Removal/Installation.
5. Install protective cap to fuel rail test port.

______________________________

Start with that and let me know what you find.

Joe
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Thursday, June 27th, 2019 AT 8:20 PM

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