ready light does not come on?

With these trouble codes it looks like one of the control modules is not working, I would try a computer system reboot. Please follow this guide to proceed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/step-by-step-guide-performing-a-hard-system-reboot-for-your-vehicles-electronics-systems

Also, I would check the fusible links this guide can help, and I have included a wiring diagram so you can see which links to check.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

Hi Ken thanks for your reply, I have done most of the things suggested and shown in the videos. I am next going to change all fuse able links, plus today I traced two wires from the ignition switch that have no power at the ignition switch end. one is labelled battery the other acc. Those two IO will be doing tomorrow Friday 29th. I will let you know how I get on. Kind regards, Chris

Okay, let me know what you find.

Hi Ken,

Update: The only problem I have left now is the gauge fuse still no power. traced wires and have not found any breaks or burnt out wires. I need to find what gives the gauge fuse power. With this being a Hybrid so the usual suspect (connector to starter) is obviously not the supply point having no starter.

I see an accessory relay that I would check or swap out. This relay should be inside the vehicle in the interior fuse panel.

Hi Ken, sorry weather has been awful here, not been able to do much. I have checked all the relays on the driver's side, and they are fine. I will check the passenger side fuse and relay box in the next couple of days. Having gotten hold of the wiring diagrams, that was my next job.
I will try tomorrow and let you know how I get on tomorrow evening.
Kind regards,
Chris

Sounds good, hang in there, the weather will let up.

Hi Ken, yeah I have been finalizing the re-route of all my accessories which I could do in the vehicle. Fri-Sun looks good weather wise so that's when I will be doing the passenger side fuse/relay block. I have to have passenger door wide open as the box is under the footwell and the only way to get to it is being a contortionist lol, being disabled these jobs take me 4-5 times longer than an able-bodied person. But I am not a quitter. I'm amazed with what I have achieved so far. I will keep you updated on progress.
Kind regards,
Chris

Yep, we keep going no matter what, good to hear you don't let anything get you down. Please let me know what you come up with.

Hi Ken,

I took delivery of a xtool D7 diagnostics unit today, I know a bit over the top for a DIY'er but I love my gadgets. It seems there is a correlation between the ignition system and one of the ECU's (low power) Lights I am getting on dash i.e. Skid control, ABS, Parking brake, etc., etc., etc. So, looks like that fuse box and relays may be the culprit. One of the things I am over the moon about is the Hybrid battery is great 100% pass. Now the issues could just be bad fuse/relay or corroded contacts around that junction box. Sorry I am very clinical and methodical, so I speak what I am thinking out of the box here. Its Dark now so calling it a day. Will let you know all fault codes etc., tomorrow night. Take care, speak soon.
Kind regards,
Chris

Hi Chris,

The scanner will help with any cars you have or friends' cars to help fix them, so it is a welcome addition to the toolbox. Let me know how it goes.

Hi Ken, I am just waiting for the delivery of new relays, it could be 19th before they arrive. In the meantime, all dash put back, Hybrid battery cooling fan checked. Inverter cooling pump replaced. I will message you after the new relays arrive.
Kind regards,
Chris

Sounds good, we would like to see you fix the problem and are here to help.

Hi Ken,

The relays came early, and they have been fitted, yet still problems. Still no power at the Gauge fuse so Hybrid won't go into "Ready" mode. Although a lot of issues have now been solved, I seem to have a really puzzling issue with the ABS system. I get reports that all wheel sensors are in error state, the yaw etc., etc., etc. If I jump 12v direct from the battery to Gauge fuse Vehicle goes into "ready" mode and vehicle will start. I have checked all fuses and relays and replaced any that I was not sure about. it's really starting to get me down now. I know that a issue with the braking system can throw all sorts of codes up, but why would the ABS suddenly go faulty so badly when the day before it was fine and a blown accessory fuse later and all goes downhill. (blown fuse was caused by previous owner putting a 10-amp fuse connector into roof monitor and not sheathing wires properly) this fell onto metal body part in roof area and blew the fuse, after which all this mayhem.
Kind regards,
Chris

Sorry, we only handle one problem per thread, please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken

Hi Ken, sadly all the issues I mentioned are related to the initial post I made. I won't be bothering you any further. Thanks for your help and suggestions so far, I could have put the full list of faults, but that would have in my opinion created more confusion. As I said previously, I am not a quitter so I will continue until I fix the issues. Take care, Kind regards, Chris

Sounds good, can you please let us know what you find? I will be glad to help you, but we need to keep the post subject related, if you feel they are related I will be glad to continue helping.

Hi Ken,

Yes, they are all related as they all happened at once. I have come a long way since I decided to tackle this job myself after being let down by a so-called specialist. These are the next jobs I intend to tackle:

1. Change the Ignition switch
2. Change the Gear selector lever and check selector cable.
3. check red/white wire from ignition switch to 10amp ST fuse in Engine Bay (no power at either at present) that's ST2 to ST fuse.
4. check white/lilac cable from ignition to (a) 30ampfuse engine bay that's the AM2 cable.
(b)white/lilac cable from ignition to 7.5amp fuse passenger side fuse block AM1 cable.
After studying wiring diagrams and tracing all wires I think that should fix all issues.

Kind regards,
Chris

Excellent, it sounds like you have a good handle on it, if you need any instructions or help, please let me know. Here is how to change the lock/switch out.

Hi Ken,

Thanks for the lock/switch advice. Having a good rest this evening then tomorrow I start on the list I sent. I will give you an update on sections completed tomorrow night.

Kind regards,
Chris

You are welcome, please let me know.

Hi Ken,

I think I may have totally over complicated the issue, I have changed every fuse and every relay in the vehicle and the issues remain. I have decided to take a step back and re-think the whole problem and would appreciate your honest opinion. This all started when a fuse blew in the roof behind a roof monitor. On tracing the wire from that I ended up at the ignition switch. two wires from the ignition switch that should go live in turn. The ACC and the On wires do not have any power these were what all the aftermarket accessories were wired to. I think that the power that went through these two wires was cut by the blown fuse because they were overloaded. I think all I have to do is rewire these two wires from the ignition switch to the components in the fuse blocks they go to by tracing the original wires through their connections. Please give me your thoughts on this. I have checked the wiring diagrams as I stated before and I know exactly where they go to and any connections they pass through.
Kind Regards,
Chris

It sounds like a module is blown; I would do a CAN scan. You can get a CAN scanner (Controller Area Network) which will work on most cars from Amazon.

Here is a video to show you how:
.

https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

Here is a CAN scanner on Amazon for about $134.00 if you need it. They have cheaper and more professional units as well; this one is a middle of the road.

https://amzn.to/3ZYCA1P

Please go over these guides and get back to us.

Hi Ken,


Thanks for the pointers, I can't afford the monthly fee for the Alldata program. Having said that, remember I said I had gotten hold of a Xtools diagnostics kit. On the system scan it comes up with a issue with the ABS. A lot of codes showing 13 in all. I am thinking that combined with the two wires from the ignition, this is what is causing my issues. I can't afford to buy a replacement ABS module just yet, but I think that will be my next step. I am going to check all the connections and grounds first, clean them up look for any bent pins and grease them.

If you disagree with that assumption, please let me know.

Kind regards,
Chris

Here is a CAN scanner on Amazon for about $134.00 if you need it. They have cheaper and more professional units as well; this one is a middle of the road.

https://amzn.to/3ZYCA1P

This can tell us what is going on with the system, so we don't replace parts that are unnecessary.

The Scanner I have is for my Alphard Ken, Its a JDM import so protocol is JOBD.
The normal OBD scanners don't read the ECU'S properly. I can read all the systems Engine ECU, Powertrain, Hybrid battery etc. I can send you an image of the faults it is finding if that helps.
let me know.

Chris

FYI, Alldata and Mitchell1 both have DIY versions that cover a single vehicle for a one-time price. Mitchell 1 actually just changed theirs as well, it used to be that some topics were redacted in the DIY version, from what I have read that is no longer the case.
However, if this is a true JDM, the info may not apply very well as those can be quite different than the US builds. I believe that van uses a version of the first-generation hybrid drive similar to the Prius. As you stated, the US based scan tools can be difficult on them. Some of the Chinese tools can read JDM cars but even those can be flaky at times and any support outside the dealer networks in Japan on JDM vehicles is spotty at best. One of the biggest downsides of "Global" vehicles.

Hi Steve, yes, I prefer Techstream for the JDM, but sadly I cant justify spending £1200 on the lead from the USA at present. Techstream is the perfect answer which I will be looking at further down the line. A lot is now coming together after Ken's input and basically late nights scanning through Toyota Japan's maintenance cdrom with google translate. As I told Ken, I am not a quitter, I will get there.
Kind regards,
Chris