Rattling in the front or on the bottom of the car

Tiny
CARISSA NETHERCUTT
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • 1.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 179,568 MILES
I just bought this car and when I bought it it has a rattling noise, but the rattling noise goes away when you accelerate. It has a hard time in the morning when it is really cold out, you have to let it warm up for at least five to ten minutes or it does not want to run and I cannot figure out what the rattling is. Can you please help me?
Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 12:17 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

There are many things that can cause a rattle in the engine compartment. Based on your description, it could be related to a heat shield or the internal components in the catalytic converter may have come loose. The easiest way to check if it is one of these things is to simply take a rubber mallet and tap on the exhaust system to see if you can recreate the sound.

As far as the extended period amount of time for warm up, that is odd. However, there are specific components in the system that adjust to make the engine run good in all temps. If the check engine light is on, you need to scan the computer to determine if there are diagnostic trouble codes. Here is a quick video that shows how that is done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner. If that is the case, most parts stores will scan it for free.

If the engine light isn't on, then I would suspect an issue with the coolant temperature sensor. This sensor tells the computer what the coolant temperature is. Based on that information, the computer determines how rich or lean to make the fuel/air mixture. The colder it is, the richer the mixture must be. On start up, if the computer thinks it is 100 degrees F, it will run a lean mixture and the engine may not run correctly if the outside temperature is actually 50 degrees F. The bad part is this. If the sensor is still sending a signal, it will not set a check engine light because there is a signal, regardless if the signal is correct or not.

To check that, you need a live data scanner so you can actually see what information is being sent.

Try the tests that I mentioned and let me know what you find. If you do find diagnostic trouble codes, tell me what they are.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 6:43 PM
Tiny
CARISSA NETHERCUTT
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thank you very much for your prompt response I do appreciate all of your help. I actually do have an OBD2 scanner and I did hook it up and it is telling me that my bank 1 sensor 1 and my bank 2 sensor 2 is out and then I need to get to oxygen sensors and my rattling was not actually in the motor at all if the flex-plate that is guarding the flywheel. I do not know much about cars but I was raised around and so I work on my own. So I thank you for your help.
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Sunday, October 21st, 2018 AT 5:22 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Hi and welcome back.

Your video is of the flywheel and connector plate. That is what connects the transmission internally with the engine. Any idea what that was hitting? Also, make sure all bolts are tight.

As far as the o2 sensors, there is an upstream (see picture 1) which is the heated sensor and there is a down stream (see picture 2) sensor. I am not sure why it is saying bank one and two. Can you send me the codes you are getting?

Let me know.
Joe
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Sunday, October 21st, 2018 AT 6:22 PM
Tiny
CARISSA NETHERCUTT
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
The code was p0135, p0145, p0758 and then p0135. Again it said both downstream and upstream o2 sensors need replaced and as far as what the flex-plate is hitting I do not know. I think it is just the serrated edges or hitting against that side the transmission when it goes in a circle.
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 7:58 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
The 758 is for shift solenoid B (2-3 shift solenoid). I am not sure if you noticed anything with how the transmission shifts. And, as far as the other two codes, you are correct. Both sensors are involved.

Now, for the noise you get from the flywheel, can you turn the engine at the crankshaft with a wrench and watch as the flywheel turns what it may be hitting? Honestly, I cannot for the life of me picture anything that it may hit.
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 4:49 PM
Tiny
CARISSA NETHERCUTT
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I did get under the car and I could see what was going on. I was able to get down and actually turn the flex plate because it was split. So I fixed it and now it runs fine and there is no noise. So thank you for your help.
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 4:52 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
That is great news, and you are very welcome. You did all the diagnostic and repair work. Great job.

Let me know if you run into any trouble with the oxygen sensors.

Take care,

Joe
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 5:01 PM
Tiny
CARISSA NETHERCUTT
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I just wanted to let you know that I've may have fixed my flex plate but and my code reader shut off these codes for me P0134 which is the O2 sensor ckt no activity bank 1 sensor 1, P0135 which is the O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 1, and that one was also repeated for the third error there are six hours all together. The fourth code was P0300 P which is random multiple cylinder misfire detected and I'm not sure what the P at the end is for, the fifth code was P0303 P which is cylinder 3 misfire detected, and the six code was P0304 P which is cylinder 4 misfire detected. So it seems that I either have 2 bad spark plugs or spark plug wires in the third and fourth cylinder and two O2 sensors that need replaced I think I'm right. If you can help anymore please do all advice is accepted and appreciated.
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 8:55 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Welcome back.

Like you, I have no idea why the P is at the end of the code. The P at the start of the code indicates a power-train issue. I have nothing indicating the P at the end.

As far as the cylinder misfires and random misfire, it could be the result of the O2 sensors. I would start with them. Replace them, clear the codes, and drive it to see if the misfire codes return. If they do not, great. If they do, then consider plugs or ignition wires.

By the way, what did you find regarding the flex plate?

Let me know. And you are welcome to ask as many questions as you want.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, October 23rd, 2018 AT 5:16 PM

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