Ran out of fuel, over revved with ether, primed but now will not run, even on ether?

Tiny
BRUNOSKI
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 ISUZU TRUCK
  • 7.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
The truck had run out of fuel on the highway. Tried to prime by forcing fuel into fuel separator at fuel tank. (Couldn't open cab)
Tried to start with aid of ether, over revved while cranking with accelerator floored and spraying ether. Ran extremely high RPMs for a second or two.
Then it would chug between 700 and 1,500 RPMs randomly, with accelerator floored only. Very much black smoke while chugging.
Batteries down. AAA came to jump but their jump pack was drained. AAA driver tried to "Tighten terminal" with a hammer.
The second AAA driver found a broken terminal and tried to jump. Also with a drained battery pack, no start.
Next day, (still on side of highway) I brought New NAPA Commercial Batts. Primed by the book. 1) pump through fuel line into the fuel filter, 2) pump till no bubbles out of line out of filter, 3) pump till no bubbles out of filter housing vent screw. 4) pump the primer sixty times. 5) engage ignition switch, depress idle down switch and pump sixty times.
Tried to start, cranks, no start. Shot a quick blast of ether into filter housing with filters removed, no start. Acting like it fired maybe three times.
Repeated above process. Again, no start. This time I shot two one-half second blasts of ether directly into the intake manifold (removed rubber hose at intake). No start.
Repeated entire process with a Helper holding the idle down switch while pumping primed sixty times, still no start.
I'm running out of time before the State Troopers impound it.
Don't want to tow to dealer if it's a damaged engine and pay them the $600.00 diagnostic fee to hear it's exploded. (It sounds and cranks fine)
thinking a sensor from over revving or hoping anyway.

Addition to above post. The idle up/down switch has not appeared to work for some time now. So, I'm guessing the idle down switch to bleed the injectors may not have done anything.
Friday, July 29th, 2022 AT 9:23 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,665 POSTS
Have you run the codes and checked the fuses? This is where I would start to see what you find and what comes up. This guide will help, and the fuse panels are under the hood or in the cab:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Saturday, July 30th, 2022 AT 10:49 AM
Tiny
BRUNOSKI
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I really appreciate your input. I tore my rotator cuff in a couple of places
and am working slowly to put it back together. So please don't take slow responding as not appreciated, it very much is. Thank you again.
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Saturday, August 6th, 2022 AT 4:53 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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  • 47,665 POSTS
No problem let me know what happens.
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Saturday, August 6th, 2022 AT 7:56 PM
Tiny
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  • 5 POSTS
I cannot get the code reader to connect.
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Wednesday, August 17th, 2022 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
BRUNOSKI
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  • 5 POSTS
Which fuses should I look at?
P.S. Sorry it took so long to respond. I do appreciate your time. The truck is two towns away for me to go to work on.
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Wednesday, August 17th, 2022 AT 7:28 PM
Tiny
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Okay. None of the fuses in the regular fuse box located on the dash in front of the passenger seat and blown.
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Wednesday, August 17th, 2022 AT 7:31 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,665 POSTS
Let's try to reset the systems, remove the negative battery cable and touch it to the positive battery terminal for one minute, this will discharge all capacitors and allow the system to reboot once reconnected, let me know.
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Thursday, August 18th, 2022 AT 2:22 PM

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