Radiator fan only works when temperature sensor unplugged

Tiny
MAYUR
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 MAZDA 3
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 100,000 MILES
Hi, the radiator fan does not come on when the heat gauge reaches half way the water starts boiling but the temperature gauge stays in the middle. I was told that it was a faulty temperature sensor which I replaced. The fan still inst working, however if I unplug the temperature sensor the fan works from start up. The fan also works when the A/C is on. What could be the problem?
Friday, November 10th, 2017 AT 12:47 AM

12 Replies

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Fan will default to on with no signal from the sensor, the only other item would be the fan control module. I only have a location as being at the left front of engine compartment. The PCM is also involved in this circuit, but I would suspect the control module, a dealer scan will show if this module is faulty.
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Friday, November 10th, 2017 AT 3:54 AM
Tiny
MAYUR
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Thank you I will take it to a dealer.
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Friday, November 10th, 2017 AT 3:58 AM
Tiny
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Please post back what they find, as it can help others here.
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Friday, November 10th, 2017 AT 4:06 AM
Tiny
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The Fan module seems to be faulty and the the entire fan has to be replaced as its 1 complete unit
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Monday, November 27th, 2017 AT 11:31 PM
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
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OK, I thought that may be the case, often the case is they make these units integral and you have to replace more than is required to fix the car.
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Tuesday, November 28th, 2017 AT 2:29 PM
Tiny
MAYUR
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Yes I ended up changing the thermostat and temp sensor only to find out later it was the fan.I was not to impressed with the dealer service as they should have picked that up first.
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Tuesday, November 28th, 2017 AT 10:54 PM
Tiny
LISA FORD
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Hi Mayur when you mean "only to find out it was the fan"what did you mean by that.I know its not the fan because it goes when you disconnect the sensor was it the control module
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Wednesday, February 6th, 2019 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Welcome to 2CarPros.

In his case the control module was a part of the fan itself so to replace it requires replacing the entire module as one piece. Happens a lot where a control unit is either molded into or is actually inside the part it controls.

If you are having a similar issue could you please use this link and ask it as a new question?
https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new
Please include all your vehicle information along with any testing you have done. Thank you.
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Wednesday, February 6th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
MAYUR
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Hi Guys, I had the entire fan replaced and it still did not work(dealer diagnosis), I took it to a after market dealer who investigated further as the dealer replaced all components and it still did not work (temp sensor, thermostat, water bottle and cap and then finally the fan ). The diagnosis was that the PCM module on the computer box is not working, so it does not send the signal to the fan to kick in(dealer could not pick this up), I was told to either change the computer box or by pass it by fitting an after market sensor.
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Wednesday, February 6th, 2019 AT 10:59 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Well no control signal from the PCM would definitely cause that. However I'm not sure it's the PCM that is the problem, That is because the fan still turns on when you disconnect the ECT plug, and works with the A/C. Both of those use the same circuitry inside the PCM to turn on the fan. I suppose it could be something on the board between the ECT input and the fan output that is causing that problem.
I would do some testing though just to be sure. It is a simple system as cooling fans go. The ECT sensor tell the PCM the temperature, at 209 degrees the PCM sends a pulsed power signal to the fan control module. That signal keeps getting faster as the temperature rises. The control module gets that signal and uses larger power transistors to pass the pulsed signal to the fan.
I would verify both of the Black ground wires are good.
As the fan does work when the A/C is on the power feed should be OK That leaves just the ECT and the PCM signal.
I would check the wiring to the temperature sensor very close for any issues. It operates using a thermistor which converts a temperature into a resistance. Any added resistance from corrosion or a loose pin can cause a problem.
You say you changed the sensor, how about an odd test. Unplug the sensor wiring and plug in the old sensor. Now just turn on the key and use a small torch or even a candle to heat the old sensor on the area that was inside the engine. What does the fan do?
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Thursday, February 7th, 2019 AT 4:52 AM
Tiny
ALASKANTRAVELER
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Okay there, I have a 2010 Silverado 1500. Same exact issue. Fan only works when the A/C is on. Checked the fuses/relays, all good. When I turn the A/C on, the fan comes on intermittently which make me think the engine coolant temperature sensor is working properly (as temperature goes over 209 degrees it triggers the fan to come one). Not sure why it wont work when the A/C is not on. I bought a new sensor ($30.00) then I found this thread and it seems replacing the sensor is unlikely to fix the problem.
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Wednesday, June 16th, 2021 AT 4:34 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Because this is a different make and model there are many items that also are different. We try to keep them separate to make searching easier so could you please use this link and ask this as a new question?
https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new
Please include any information about the vehicle and if you have done any testing.
Thank you.
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Wednesday, June 16th, 2021 AT 6:25 PM

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