Rack and pinion needs to be replaced

If the rack is bad and binding, I wouldn't recommend driving it. There are bushings that fail in them and cause a binding. If it's bad, I would replace it.

Here are the directions for replacement. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

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2002 Oldsmobile Aurora V6-214 3.5L VIN H SFI
Power Steering Gear Replacement
Vehicle Steering and Suspension Steering Steering Gear Service and Repair Procedures Power Steering Gear Replacement
POWER STEERING GEAR REPLACEMENT
Steering Gear Replacement

Tools Required
J 42640 Steering Column Anti Rotation Pin

Removal Procedure

Caution: Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control, which could result in personal injury.

Notice: With wheels of the vehicle facing straight ahead, secure the steering wheel utilizing steering column anti-rotation pin, steering column lock, or a strap to prevent rotation. Locking of the steering column will prevent damage and a possible malfunction of the SIR system. The steering wheel must be secured in position before disconnecting the following components:

The steering column
The intermediate shaft(s)
The steering gear

After disconnecting these components, do not rotate the steering wheel or move the front tires and wheels. Failure to follow this procedure may cause the SIR coil assembly to become un-centered and cause possible damage to the SIR coil. If you think the SIR coil has became un-centered, refer to your specific SIR coil s centering procedure to re-center SIR Coil.

Pic 1

1. Lock the steering column by installing the J 42640 into the underside of the steering column.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove the tires and wheels.
4. Remove the power steering gear heat shield. See: Steering Gear > Procedures > Power Steering Gear Heat Shield Replacement

pic 2

5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
6. Separate the intermediate shaft from the power steering gear.

Pic 3

7. Remove the outer tie rod retaining nuts.
8. Using J 24319-B separate the outer tie rods from the steering knuckles.

Pic 4

9. Remove the power steering pressure hose (2) from the power steering gear.
10. Remove the power steering return hose (1) from the power steering gear.

Pic 5

11. If equipped, disconnect the variable effort steering electrical connector.
12. Remove the left stabilizer shaft insulator. See: Stabilizer Bushing > Service and Repair

pic 6

13. Remove the power steering gear mounting bolts.
14. Remove the power steering gear through the left wheel opening.
15. Transfer the outer tie rods if replacing the power steering gear.

Installation Procedure

pic 7

1. Install the power steering gear through the left wheel opening.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

2. Install the power steering gear mounting bolts.
Tighten the power steering gear mounting bolts to 95 Nm (70 lb ft).

Pic 8

3. If equipped, connect the variable effort steering electrical connector.
4. Install the left stabilizer shaft insulator.

Pic 9

5. Install the power steering pressure hose (2) to the power steering gear.
6. Install the power steering return hose (1) to the power steering gear.
Tighten the power steering pressure and return hoses to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).
7. Install the power steering gear heat shield.

Pic 10

8. Install the outer tie rods to the steering knuckles.
9. Install the outer tie rods retaining nuts.
Tighten the nuts to 30 Nm (22 lb ft) plus an additional 180 degrees.

Pic 11

10. Install the intermediate shaft to the power steering gear.
11. Install the intermediate shaft pinch bolt.
Tighten the intermediate shaft pinch bolt to 47 Nm (35 lb ft).
12. Install the tires and wheels.
13. Lower the vehicle.

Pic 12

14. Remove the J 42640 from the steering column.
15. Bleed the power steering system.
16. Adjust the front toe.

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I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care and God Bless,

Joe

Non-working power steering will be a real lot more difficult to turn than that old manual steering on older vehicles from the '50s. Back then one of the three main alignment angles was different. That's called "caster", and was usually negative, meaning the upper ball joint was further ahead of the lower ball joint. That made for rather unstable steering but it made it possible to steer a big heavy dump truck without power steering. As speeds got higher in the '60s, that negative camber caused excessive steering wander, and a miserable, tiring vehicle to drive. To make steering more stable, caster was changed to positive. If you look at the fork of a bicycle, you'll see it's angled to the rear at the top. That is positive caster and is what makes it possible to ride no-handed when you put weight on it. That positive caster on cars is what makes it tend to want to go straight on its own, but it greatly increases the arm strength needed to steer it, especially at lower speeds. That's why they added power steering.

Professionals get pretty excited about anything that alters safety. That includes changing the chassis height by lowering cars or raising trucks, as that adversely affects braking distances, handling, and steering response. Non-standard tires and wheels can also affect these things. If you're involved in a crash when the other guy runs a red light, you can be sure his lawyer or insurance investigator will find these alterations, and convince a jury that you were partly at fault for the crash because you were less able to avoid it, and they will be right. Now imagine what a field day they'd have if they found the other driver knowingly didn't have a properly-working safety system, power steering in this case.

What is wrong with your steering gear, and why don't you want to fix it? Are you just assuming the rack and pinion assembly has to be replaced, or did someone diagnose it as such? This article might provide more information:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/power-steering-problems