Slave cylinder replacement

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If you can't put the vehicle in gear with the engine running (It grinds), then you have a problem with either the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder.

First, check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. It is mounted to the firewall under the hood. See picture 1

I also attached a picture of the slave cylinder. To replace it, the transmission needs removed.

If the fluid is full in the reservoir, suspect a bad master cylinder. Have a helper pump the clutch pedal while you watch to see if the fluid level changes in the reservoir. If it doesn't, remove the MC. As far as the slave cylinder, most times they leak when they go bad, so check under the vehicle for evidence of a leak. Regardless, if the MC reservoir is empty, refill it with Dot 3 brake fluid to see if it was just low.

If you determine the MC is bad, here are the directions for replacement. Pic 3 correlates with these directions.

CAUTION: For vehicles equipped with external slave cylinders, prior to any vehicle service that requires removal of the slave cylinder (i.E, transmission removal), the master cylinder pushrod must be disconnected from the clutch pedal. If not disconnected, permanent damage to the slave cylinder will occur if the clutch pedal is depressed while the slave cylinder is disconnected.

1. From cab interior, carefully pry push rod and retainer bushing from cross-shaft lever pin.
2. Disconnect interlock switch connector plug.
3. Remove the two nuts and support bracket retaining the clutch reservoir and master cylinder assembly to the firewall.
4. Disconnect hydraulic tube from master cylinder.
5. Remove clutch reservoir and master cylinder assembly from firewall.
6. When the master cylinder studs are free of dash panel, rotate cylinder 105° counterclockwise to permit interlock switch to exit dash panel. Remove unit from vehicle.
7. Reverse procedure to install.
8. Fill and bleed the hydraulic system. See: Clutch Fluid > Procedures

NOTE: As the clutch disc wears, the fluid level in the reservoir will rise. The fill line step in the reservoir is the normal level for a new system.

If you determine the slave cylinder is bad, here are the directions for replacement after the transmission is removed.

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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL

Disconnecting Clutch Slave Cylinder Tube.

See Pic 3

1. Disconnect coupling at transmission with Clutch Coupling Tool T88T-70522-A by sliding the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on tube.
2. Remove the transmission.
3. Remove slave cylinder bolts to the transmission.
4. Remove slave cylinder from transmission input shaft.

INSTALLATION

Slave Cylinder

See pic 4

1. Position slave cylinder over transmission input shaft with bleed screw and coupling facing left side of transmission.
2. Install the slave cylinder attaching bolts and tighten to 20-27 Nm (15-20 ft lb).
3. Install the transmission.
4. Insert male coupling into female coupling on the clutch slave cylinder. Make sure that the connection is secure.
5. Bleed the hydraulic system as required See: Clutch Fluid > Procedures.

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Bleeding procedure for the MC

1. Install clutch master cylinder in a vise.

NOTE: When bleeding a dry replacement clutch master cylinder, remove clutch master cylinder-to-clutch slave cylinder tubing from vehicle and install to new master cylinder.

2. Fill master cylinder reservoir with High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or equivalent DOT 3 fluid meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A.
3. Insert clutch slave cylinder end of tube in a waste container to prevent fluid from leaking.
4. Push the master cylinder push rod all the way in. While holding the push rod in, plug the end of the tube to prevent air from entering the tube and master cylinder. Perform this step several times until all air has been bled from the clutch master cylinder.

NOTE: Be sure to keep clutch master cylinder reservoir full during this operation to prevent additional air from entering the master cylinder.

5. When all air is expelled from the clutch master cylinder (no bubbles come out of the tube), install the clutch master cylinder and tubing to the vehicle.

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Bleeding procedure for the slave cylinder

Clutch Hydraulic System Bleeding, Concentric Cylinder Clutch Slave

1. If bleeding a dry replacement clutch master cylinder, refer to Bench Bleed Procedure, Clutch Master Cylinder. See: Clutch Master Cylinder > Procedures
2. Disconnect the coupling at the transmission with Coupling Disconnect Tool T88T-70522-A or equivalent by sliding the white plastic sleeve toward the clutch slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on the clutch tube.

CAUTION: Make sure hydraulic tube connection is free of contamination prior to disconnecting it.

3. Remove cap and diaphragm and fill reservoir to the step with High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or equivalent DOT 3 fluid meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A.

CAUTION:
- Clean dirt and grease from around the reservoir cap.
- Brake fluid must be certified to DOT 3 specification.

4. Apply 10-15 pounds of pressure to clutch pedal.
5. Using a small screwdriver, press the internal mechanism of the male coupling to open the valve. While continuing to hold the valve open, slowly depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold.
6. Remove the screwdriver from the coupling, closing the valve.
7. Release the clutch pedal.
8. Refill reservoir to level at step.

CAUTION: The reservoir must be kept full at all times to make sure there will be no additional introduction of air into the system.

9. Repeat Steps 4 through 7.
10. Close reservoir. Reconnect the coupling to the clutch slave cylinder. Check that the connection is secure by applying a slight tug to the clutch tube.
11. Stroke the clutch pedal as rapidly as possible for five to ten strokes.
12. Wait one to three minutes.
13. Repeat Steps 11 and 12 three more times.
14. Loosen bleed screw (located in the slave cylinder body next to the inlet connection).
15. Depress and hold clutch pedal while tightening bleed screw 3-5 Nm (27-44 inch lbs.).
16. Refill the reservoir to level at step.
17. The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should properly release the clutch.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Good afternoon.

Did you replace the 3/32 pin that holds the line to the slave?

Roy

Okay.

When you released the line, did the plastic release come back out so it is not constantly releasing the line?

Roy

Also, make sure the line is pushed all the way in. It may not be seated.

Roy

Okay, then you may be correct. I have never seen a pressure plate break that connection but it very well could be the issue.

What brand slave did you use?

Roy

Okay, keep in touch.

Roy

The plate may be the problem. I doubt it came apart.

Roy

There is no pressure on the slave without the pressure plate to push. So it will not build much pressure.

No, the bleeder has nothing to do with it

Roy

No, that is not it. It is the springs in the plate.

15-20 is what you need. Do not over tighten.

The disc looks terrible.

Did you have the flywheel resurfaced?

Roy

Not easy as I believe it is internal to the tranny. The fact you have the problem is possibly slave or master but I suspect the source is a loose connection on the lines and more air in the system.