Power windows not working

Thanks for the guide and the diagrams it was the main window switch that was bad I love this site.

One day I put my passenger window down and when I tried to roll it up nothing happened. The back lights in the door switches go out when I push up. It does this on either the passenger or drivers door depending on which side I am pressing.

No clicking noises or any other switches or windows doing this.

I am not sure where to start. I did not see any burnt out fuses and I am out of ideas. Not really wanting to pay a lot if money to get it fixed.

Thank you for letting me know where to start. I will go have my mechanic look at it and let you know what he says. Thank you again.

Passenger window will not go up on the car listed above SEL model with security.

According to Fig. 52: Power Window Circuit: 2002 Ford Taurus SEL

Test 1a, passenger window goes down from drivers master switch (DMS).
Test 1b, passenger window does not go up from DMS.
Test 1c, drivers window, rear right and left windows functional from DMS as well as the repsective individual switches.
Conclusion 1, Accessory Relay and Fuse good.

Test 2a, passenger window goes down from passenger side switch (PSS).
Test 2b, passenger window does not go up from PSS.

Test 3, reversed connections at PSS terminals 2 & 5 and regulator raises window from DMS as well as PSS.
Conclusion 3, Regulator operational.

Test 4, Disconnect connector at PSS and measure continuity between terminal 1 & 6. 0.004 ohms resistance (normal for my Fluke).
Conclusion 4, Good ground path from DMS terminal 4 to PSS terminal 6 and DMS terminal 3 to PSS terminal 1.

Test 5, Connector at PSS, measure voltage between terminal 1 & 6.
Test 5a, +13.5vdc detected at PSS terminal 1 when DMS passenger side down.
Test 5b, +13.5vdc detected at PSS terminal 6 when DMS passenger side up.
Conclusion 5, Power from DMS to PSS.

When the PSS is in the released state, terminals 1 & 2 are 0 ohms due that when the DMS passenger down is pressed it works.
Possibly need to measure continuity between PSS terminals 1 & 2 in the pressed state and should be roughly 0 ohms. I recall it being 0 but will check it again.

Other than that what am I missing?

I did notice a little hiccup on the voltage. Maybe some switch bounce or something. It happens only in the one direction and just long enough for me to see it display on the multi-meter before full voltage is shown. Will swap rear and passenger from the driver master switch (DMS) some what as you said, to see if it follows. Also, on the schematic on the line from DMS terminal 3 to PSS terminal 1 there is symbol looks similar to a capacitor symbol. Is that just the connector at the driver side door shown if due to the color difference if without Anti-theft?

And thanks, I have little knowledge with cars but extensive trouble shooting skills and break down in software of all places. I figure more eyes are better and possibly someone more in the know of Fords would have a better ideal as to what might be going on. I heard their security system plays all sorts of havoc on their electronics.

That was a door lock. This is what I am seeing and circled. And yes I have a a key fob with security.

Yeah, that is what I expected on both counts. So what is it? A lone connector some place?

I drive a 2005 Ford Taurus and recently my window went down and will not go back up. There were no signs of the motor wearing out before this happened and I am not convinced the motor is the problem considering the age of the car. How can I determine if it is the motor before I take it to be repaired? Could this be caused by something else? And if so what are some ways I can fix this problem, even if it is just to get the window back up.

I connected the trailer wires today and since then, all four power windows stopped working. I can't figure out how to fix it. I think it has something to do with the wirings. Please help. Thanks

Which fuse operates the power windows and dome lights