Power steering pump leaks?

Hello and thanks for your question!

Looks like they want you to take down the catalytic converter to do this job. The labor time calls for 2.5 hours, but with the age of the vehicle (if the exhaust is original), and the unreliability of exhaust parts, I fear the bolts on the catalytic converter will be a pain. Be sure to soak the bolts with PB Blaster or WD-40 overnight before going this route. If you think pulling the axle will be the way to go, I will be more than happy to provide you with the axle procedures. Please see the OEM repair procedures below:

REMOVAL
1. Remove the (-) negative battery cable from the battery and isolate cable.
2. Remove cap from power steering fluid reservoir.
3. Using a siphon pump, remove as much power steering fluid as possible from the power steering fluid reservoir.
4. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist.
5. Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring harness from the vehicle wiring harness. Access to connection at vehicle wiring harness is through the oxygen sensor wiring harness grommet in the floor pan of the vehicle.

NOTE: The exhaust system needs to be removed from the engine to allow for an area to remove the power steering pump from the vehicle.

6. Remove the catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold. Then remove all the exhaust system hangers/isolators from the brackets on the exhaust system.

(See image 1).

7. Move the exhaust system as far rearward and to the left side of the vehicle as possible.

8. Raise the heat sleeve on the power steering hoses to expose the hose to steel tube connection. Remove the hose from the power steering fluid return line on the front suspension cradle. Allow the remaining power steering fluid to drain from the pump and fluid reservoir through the removed return hose.

(See image 2).

9. Remove the accessory drive splash shield.

(See image 3).

10. Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt from the engine.

(See image 4).

11. Remove the power steering fluid supply hose coming from the remote fluid reservoir, from the fitting on the power steering pump. Drain off excess power steering fluid from hose.

(See image 5).

12. Remove the power steering fluid pressure line from the power steering pump. Drain excess power steering fluid from tube.
13. Remove the power steering fluid return hose from the power steering pump. Drain excess power steering fluid from tube.

14. Remove the support bracket at the rear of the power steering pump attaching the pump to the rear of the engine.

(See image 6).

15. Remove the 3 bolts mounting the power steering pump to the alternator/power steering pump and belt tensioner mounting bracket.

(See image 7).

16. Remove the power steering pump from its mounting bracket.
17. The power steering pump is removed from the vehicle by pulling it out through the exhaust tunnel area in the floor pan of the vehicle.
18. If transferal of the power steering pump pulley is necessary, refer to Overhaul.

Let us know how it goes, and thanks for using 2CarPros!

William

Hello,

I don't recommend cutting a hole in the floor, it will rust quickly if not already and become a safety issue. The trouble would be equal if not greater than taking down the converter. There should be 4 bolts on the converter mounting it to the manifold. Soak them overnight with penetrating oil and the rest is up to elbow grease. Nevertheless, whatever you decide to do just let us know, and send pictures! Thanks again!

William

You're welcome, thanks for using 2CarPros!

Take care,
William

Good evening,

It's good to hear that you didn't need to mess with the exhaust, it can really be a game changer on older cars. If the pump is leaking at the shaft, it may well be a matter of just replacing the O-rings and keep using it. However, a true rebuild would also include the bearings and any other mechanical parts that are most certainly worn if it is original. Nowadays, it's difficult to find kits to rebuild power steering pumps, calipers, alternators, starters, etc., available for retail. That's why it's popular to buy a reman, plus you get a warranty!

Personally, I would buy a new or remanufactured pump and ask the guy at the counter how old that stock is. Old new parts can be just as bad as your old worn part. Another option is to contact Cardone and mail in a ship & repair order. I had to do that for some very specific pumps with no rebuild options.

In any case, if you can find an O-ring kit for your pump, the pulley will need to come off by using a pulley removal tool. You can get one for about $20 at Harbor Freight and it works just fine (https://www.harborfreight.com/pulley-remover-and-installer-set-12-piece-63068.html). After this it is a matter of taking the pump apart via the bolts revealed by removing the pulley. I cannot find an O-ring kit available to get in person, in my area. But it looks like an O-ring kit can be ordered fairly cheap. I found a shaft seal available at Advance, part #8709, it may be available near you if that is the only part leaking.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!
William

Hello,

Something I learned along the way from an older mechanic - "time will do more damage than miles ever will" - this holds true. If that's the original motor, it's a great mileage, but unfortunately the age is a major factor when we discuss the deterioration of components. However, you said you like to rebuild, and that's perfectly okay. I would like to replace the unit already rebuilt, or new, and have a warranty. In both cases, you need the pulley removal/install tool because the pulley won't come with the new pump. Whatever you decide to do, send us pictures! I think it will be cool to see here.

Let us know if you need anything else,
William

Hi guys. I've been following along to learn the outcome. I have a couple of comments of value to add. I too prefer to rebuild and repair vs. Replace, but only for my own stuff. If I mess something up, I have only me to blame. It used to be a simple matter to bolt on a new pair of brushes onto a Chrysler alternator, but beyond that, when the unit has to be removed and disassembled, doing this type of repair will come back to bite you in the butt more times than not. The time to do the repairs will be a lot longer than when you just bolt on a new assembly with a warranty, and you have to charge for that time, so you aren't saving the customer any money. When the repair goes sour, you get to be your own warranty agent and do the job over for free. Now if you finally realize the old assembly isn't repairable, the customer is not going to be willing to pay for the repair a second time, and justifiably so. Even if you were able to save them a couple of dollars, all they're going to remember is the inconvenience of having the same breakdown a second time, which is your fault, and the need to stop what they were doing and bring the vehicle back a second time.

The other issue is those seals don't fail very often. If they did, I would have been replacing pumps all the time. As it was, I only replaced one or two in ten years working at a dealership as their only steering, suspension and alignment specialist. In that time, what I DID run into on a half dozen occasions were leaking pitman shaft seals on the bottom of steering gears on trucks. I replaced that seal on the first one only to have it come back a couple of months later with the same leak. These were also well-known for steering wander due to very slightly worn track bars, and that pitman shaft walking back and forth in the housing. Later I learned to look at that for a clue, but on these with the leaks, the owners had ignored the steering wander for a long time. I had more than a few happy owners who were surprised when the rebuilt steering gearbox solved the leak, AND the steering wander.

What was happening was the shaft would shift position less than 1/64th of an inch, but that was plenty for it to move away from the lip of the seal and allow fluid to run out intermittently. A new seal didn't solve the hammered-out bushing that was letting the shaft move around. The same thing is likely happening to your power steering pump. You'll go through a pile of work to replace the seal, then have to do the job over in a few months.

Back in the '80s it was standard practice to rebuild calipers and wheel cylinders as part of a brake job, but replacement pistons, when needed, were $90.00, and you'd pay almost as much for a rebuilt caliper. Today, professionally rebuilt, and cleaned up calipers, with a warranty, can cost as little as $20.00, so it doesn't make economic sense to rebuild them yourself. A pair of rebuild kits costs almost that much, then you have to do the work yourself and hope you did it good enough. The comment, "I would like to replace the unit already rebuilt, or new, and have a warranty" hits it right on the head. I don't know about do-it-yourselfers, but for shops, a lot of parts stores are reimbursing labor dollars when one of their parts has to be replaced under their warranty. That's another incentive to "do it right". Rebuilt pumps have such an extremely low failure rate, while any repairs you or I would do always leave plenty of room for something to go wrong. You won't be happy if you have to do this a second time.

Carry on you fine fellows. I'll be waiting to see how this turns out.

Hello,

Even more so, being a flip, a remanufactured pump would be the preferred option. Glad to hear you got this worked out. If you wish, start a new question on the Corolla if you need anything. And as always, thank you for using 2CarPros.

Take care,
William