Power seats, signals, front and rear heater fans, traction control do not work

You need to be more specific. Do you have 12 volts on fuse 107, 40-amp, under the hood? Also on terminal 30 in the relay's socket? I'm guessing that's the one you are calling the "hot side". If it is there, you got to have 12 volts on that fuse. Did you connect that jumper wire to terminal 87 to make the fan motor run?

It appears that relay is not turning on. Find fuse 12, a 10-amp, on the left side of the dash, and check for 12 volts on both sides of it when the ignition switch is in the "run" position. Check for voltage on fuse 11 too, a 20-amp fuse inside.

Check for 12 volts on fuse 12 under the hood, a 10-amp. Or, instead, observe if the Air Bag warning light turns on for its six-second self-test, then turns off. If it does, fuse 12 should be okay.

If all these circuits are dead, right now the best suspect is the ignition switch and two connector terminals.

I'll be back tomorrow to see how you're doing. I can describe how I repair burned switch terminals then.

I'm unable to copy diagrams. I have to look them up each time I need to research something.

Plug the connectors back in, then back-probe through it on the pink / black wire. You should have 12 volts there. If you do, back-probe the black / orange wire. 12 volts should be there when the ignition switch is in the "run" position. Those voltages will tell us where to go next.

Dandy. The red wire is a different 12-volt feed, and that puts 12 volts on the blue wire in the "run" position. Your jumper put 12 volts on the black / orange wire to run the circuits, or on the pink / black on the feed side of the switch. We gotta find why there's no 12 volts on the pink / black wire.

Do you have power seats and / or power locks? If so, do those work? They are on the same pink / black circuit. Double-check for 12 volts on the pink / black wire at the ignition switch, and if it's missing, there is a break in that wire between the switch and the inside fuse box.

While all three systems are on the same circuit, the lock relays are in the fuse box, and have all their own wires leaving it. The wire for the power seats is terminal 33, and for the ignition switch is terminal 4. They both appear to be in the same plug, but I don't have access to the plug views to know for sure.

Don't worry about the black / orange for now. That is the switched wire and it will work once the pink / black is working, unless something is shorted on it.

I overlooked a third pink / black wire coming into the inside fuse box. That is where the 12 volts comes in. Without even bothering to figure out which one is which, if you're missing 12 volts on all three of them, we know we have to look back toward the under-hood fuse box. If you have 12 volts on only one of those three, there's a break in the inside fuse box. That would be very uncommon, and I don't suspect that because then the door locks would work.

If the 12 volts is missing on all the pink / black wires, go to the under-hood fuse box and find fuse 103. That's a large 40-amp fuse and it should have two test points on top. If it's the type I'm thinking of. Check for 12 volts on both of those test points. If you have it there, you'll need to find the pink / black wire where it comes out on the bottom, and check for 12 volts there. That is the wire that runs to the inside fuse box.

Dandy! Go to the head of the class. Happy to hear it's solved.