Power lock door not working

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com. I have to be honest, this is a tough call for me because of the conversion. When these vehicles are converted, many changes are made to the OEM wiring design and formats, which means I cannot review the original equipment wiring schematic to help determine the issue. However, I would like to make a recommendation to you which you may find beneficial. These vehicles have a wiring harness which is located between the door frame and the door. When you open the door, you will see it located in the front section between the door and the A-pillar. Often times, the wiring in at this point is damaged from opening and closing the door. What I would like you to do is inspect the wiring at that point. To me, it sounds like the power from the main switch in the door has a wire which has been damaged and is now making contact with the interior lighting system. Hence, when you try to use the locks, power is sent to the lights rather than the lock solenoids.

If possible, check that for me. Here are general directions for checking wiring and using a test light. If you do not have a test light, they are inexpensive and can be purchased at any parts store.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Again, not having the customized wiring schematics makes it more difficult, but we can still give it our best try.

Let me know what you find when you check.

Take care,
Joe

Thank you for responding to my question. I already checked this wire harness (the one wrap in black rubber) all I found was wires from the non-operating engine starter in the van and the wires was not faulty. I mean good contacts, no corrosion. I must mention that before I got this point where it no longer work at all, and roof light come up when attempting to lock/unlock the doors, I used to hear a ''click'' sound probably from a relay (located in inside the wall behind driver seat). But now, no more click sound!

Interesting. The click may have been a relay or the actuator trying to work. If it is possible, can you get a copy of the wiring schematic from the place you purchased the vehicle?

Not really, I bought this van three years ago from a guy out of Craig's list down in Canada. I have been trying to find wiring schematics over the net, but no luck so far.

I will do some research and see what I can find. I have to be honest though, Starcraft has many different designs.

Not so sure that for my issue, Starcraft have anything to do on that. I mean standard Ford E-series van also had power lock doors. Just my thoughts. Thanks again for your help.

I totally agree, but when the upgrades are made, sometimes they change a lot of the wiring around, change switches, gain power and grounds from existing sources.

All right, let me know if you find some kind of wiring diagrams that can help me understand how this whole circuit works.

Hello,

Joe ask me the chime in here are the door lock wiring diagrams. (Below)

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Wow Ken, that is cool! This will help me ''seeing the whole picture'' of how the system is wired up. I will dig into this and let you all know how it turns out.

Thanks again!

Please do. :)

Well, it seems like the drawings cannot be enlarge or printable! I just cannot see enough (too small). Any clues on how to enlarge without losing clarity?

When you click on them do they enlarge?

Something weird happened. Now there are only three images instead of four. Yes, they now enlarge! I should be good now. Thanks again.

I do not see any wires to the door lock relay! I know it is physically located behind driver seat to the wall. I am assuming my relay might be faulty.

Here is the one that was missing and the location of the door lock memory module.

Great, thanks again for posting these schematics. Even if I consider myself ''dummy'' at finding mechanical issues, I think I can say my switches (master and passenger side) looks okay. I tested both with a test light, and when touching lock and unlock button test light were lightening. Now does thin indicate my problem might be between switches and actuators? Or relay?

Are the actuators getting power when you work the switch?

Do not know. will have to check! This will be my next step. I guess I will have to check all of the four (or perhaps if one is faulty), the three others automatically will not work?

Can you check to see if you have power at the switch? I have seen lock actuators go out at one time so not to far fetched but check it out and get back to me. No one is ever a dummy, they just do not know. We will be here to help you for all you car repair needs.

Cheers, Ken

Yes, have power at both switches. Like I said earlier I guess my next step will be to remove inside door panel to get access to check power at the actuator. But I get lazy! Will let you know once done.

Yep yep, let me know what happens.

I have tried the rear door. Checking for power to the actuator. Well there is power to the actuator! For some minutes, unlock and lock were working everywhere (as it should be) and no more light roof lighting up when pressing lockunlock button. But God knows why, when I picked up my tools and shut the side door, then nothing worked anymore and light roof light up again when pressing lock or unlock button. Good news is, the door lock is not the problem!

Made another attempt tonight. Since it stopped working while opening the passenger door, I checked in that area. Especially where the wire harness from the door enter in the passenger's feet area. Lot's of wires are there. I found a corroded connector pin. In fact there was some corrosion between two connectors and my explanation is this:
When I pressed on lock/unlock button, the corrosion on those two holes (female type connectors) shifted the current normally sent to the lock door actuator, to the dome light. I cannot tell for sure if the other hole connector was indeed for dome light but I am assuming that was the case. Does that make sense to you?

I tried several times, opened and closed doors and worked every time!
Before saying for sure my issue is solved, I will see down the road if problem resume again while traveling.

It sounds like the wiring harness in the drivers door jam is having an issue. I have seen where the harness gets worn by opening and closing the door causing the wiring to break. I would grab the wiring and move it arounds to see if you get a response out if it.

Well, I already checked that bunch of wires in the driver door, since it is the door that open the most, but I have not found anything suspicious. Like I said, I will drive it for a while and see if problem occurs again.

Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers, Ken

Here is the a final update on my door lock issue. The real issue (and fixed) was a faulty relay (the one behind the wall behind driver seat)I had to sent the van to a mechanic to have it fixed. He bypassed that relay, so now it locks and unlocks every time!