Possible rain water under valve cover, engine will not start

We need to start with checking for spark. I would pull a plug and hold it against the block and crank the engine. We need to see a strong blue spark.

I suspect if they got wet that they are not delivering a proper spark. This could be the plug or a poor connection from the boot to the plug.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

If the engine was starting prior to this then we have most likely have an ignition issue because that is what is going to be affected with water. I am sure we still have water somewhere.

Let's start with checking for spark and going from there. Thanks

Well, I also put the old spark plugs back in and still am getting no start. Ignition coils were taken apart and cleaned as well. Think it's deeper than that but I don't know what else to check.

Okay. We need to confirm if we are getting spark to the plugs or not. Basically this is either a fuel issue, spark, or compression. Based on what happened we can assume it is spark but we need to find out if the plugs are firing in order to go back in the system to find where the issue is. I doubt the engine getting water in it is causing a no start. I suspect it is water getting into an electrical component or connector that is preventing the plugs from firing. However, we need to confirm the plugs are not firing by pulling one out and connecting the coil and holding it against the block then cranking the engine. If we have no spark we can chase that issue. However, if you have spark then clearly there is another issue and we can try spraying starting fluid in the intake to see if it is a fuel issue.

Let me know and we can go from there.

So there's spark from each ignition coil to each spark plug. Cleaned the MAF sensor properly. Now I'm thinking maybe water in the intake?

You can pull the intake tubes and look down the throttle bore for signs of water. Basically water spots is what you are looking for. However, if the hood was closed and the only thing that was done was the valve cover was loose then I doubt the water got in the intake. However you do need to check.

Just to clarify what you said, have you confirmed the plugs are actually firing? Pull one and hold it against the block?

I used an inline spark plug tester. Don't have another person to crank the engine.

I understand. What was the issue prior to this? Was it a no start as well? Assuming the plugs are firing we need to circle back and run through other causes of no starts. However, if the engine was starting and running fine before this water issue then we may need to find someone to crank the engine for you.

At this point, I find it hard to believe that water in the plug wells and then down into the motor is causing a no start due to you changing the oil and drying the plugs.

Let me know the original issue and we can go from there. Thanks

Original problem was the disa valve (intake manifold valve). OEM is all plastic. I replaced with aluminum parts. I had that disa valve, air intake filter, and valve cover all off the car. With the Valve cover sitting crooked, not bolted down, the intake manifold exposed on the side bec no disa valve, and MAF sensor exposed. However...hood vents are very small only covering a small area near cylinders 5 and 6. Intake manifold is dry and a bit dusty. And because the engine (at idle) choked on me the other day and stopped after 2-3 seconds of starting, I'm thinking very slight hydro-lock maybe? But I just can't find the water. Starting to worry if it's water somewhere, which seems most likely to me, it's gonna rust something if I don't find it soon. When I pull the plugs and crank engine by hand, no water shows anywhere.

Hyrdolocked engines normally don't turn if the water is still in there. Water doesn't compress so it locks the engine. If you try to turn it over, it bends things inside the engine.

If you think you still have water in the engine, pull the plugs and crank the engine. This will push all water out the exhaust or plug holes. However, I am actually thinking there is a different issue. Have you checked for codes?
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

After reading codes i'm not getting anything in particular that would stop car from starting. Stupid question... I've owned car 3 years and stupidly never changed fuel filter on 19 year old vehicle... Could fuel filter cause car to stall, choke, and couple starts later give up and not start anymore? It makes sense to me but I don't know for sure. Replacing tomorrow either way. I feel stupid. Starting to wonder if that was problem all along. Does that make sense to you? DM-TL pump is also leaking but I don't think that'll stall the engine. Ordered new one anyway.

Yes. A plugged filter will definitely cause this issue. That would be quite a coincidence but definitely needs to be changed either way as you mentioned. Will wait to hear some good news on this one when you get it replaced.

Not the fuel filter although it seriously needed changed! Changing MAF sensor and DM-TL pump, whatever that does on Wednesday.
I'm getting codes:

P0313 Misfire detected w/Low Fuel
P0505 Idle Air Control System
P1447 DM-TL (Diagnostic Module
Tank Leakage) Pump Current Too.
High During Switching Solenoid Test.
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Low.
And again P0313.
.

The P0313 is just a generic code of a misfire and low fuel. Have we tried using starter fluid in the intake then cranking the engine to see if it fires for a second or two? Just spray about 3-4 bursts of starter fluid and then crank the engine and see what happens.

Also, can you get a video of what the engine is doing when you crank the engine? Basically I just want to hear what it sounds like.

Here's a video...

Sprayed brake fluid (all I had) three times in throttle body and quickly ran to try start it to no avail. Don't have two people. But didn't start.

If it won't start using flammable liquids that shows it is not a fuel issue right? Changed fuel filter w/built in pressure regulator yesterday. Before and after changing filter I hear the pump sending fuel to the filter when turn key to "on" position. I used to run it very low on fuel when was in school and had no money for about two years. I know that can affect the pump but I do hear it sending fuel to filter. There's also pressure at the fuel rail via the purge valve. Wouldn't the pump set off a more specific code? Replacing both camshaft sensors, crankshaft sensor, MAF sensor and DM-TL pump Wed/Thurs either way. I did notice today the MAF sensor has crack in the plastic right around the sensor.

Okay. With the crack in the MAF that could be an issue but if you unplug the sensor the PCM will just us a default value and set a code but should still start.

As for the starter fluid, you are correct. If it does not start using it then it is most likely not a fuel issue. Due to hearing the pump and fuel is a good sign but is not definitive. The starter fluid is more definitive. Just give it 3 good bursts of fluid and then try to crank the engine and see if it fires.

Yea, I'll get more starter fluid tomorrow. Tried starting it with MAF unplugged that doesn't work either.

Okay. I have high hopes on the starter fluid. Will wait to hear back. Thanks

First off I just have to thank you for all your input! It means a lot to have help on this! I can't help but fear the worst. I've been trying to recollect exactly what happened that day it started and shut off. After the water got in the spark plug well and camshaft overnight, I dried it and put it all back together. Did not crank engine by hand first like should've. I tried starting it, it ran rough maybe 2-4 seconds and abruptly choked. Never started again. Oil was not milky when changed. I personally think ignition or compression, but I'm no Pro, clearly. I just worry there's internal damage and if that's the case, and I use starter fluid, wouldn't that make the damage worse if it's compression issue? Was never any smoke or loud grinding-metal noise when it happened. Just wanted to get your thoughts on that before try firing it up again with fluids.

No problem. That is why we are here. We will get through this.

You raise a valid point so let's just run a compression check before you put starter fluid to it.

Here is a guide that will take you through that:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Okay, so dmtl pump I got today was for an m3, not what I ordered but I think the gas cap is cause of that p1447 code. Okay,so starter fluid tried really really really hard to start it, but didn't. I was Naval mechanic about 15 years ago so I've ran compression tests before, but that was long time ago!! Lol...anyway I 1st put about a teaspoon or two oil in each cylinder to make sure they were lubed considering the water issue, and repeatedly cranked by hand...here's the results. I ran some multiple times. Keep in mind these are cold tests and reflect about 30 psi lower than hot results. I'm very worried!

Cyl6: 120psi @ TDC
Cyl5: 120psi @ TDC
Cyl4: 60 then 50 then 50psi @ TDC
Cyl3: 30 then 60psi @ TDC
Cyl2: 90psi
Cyl1: Zero psi twice, maybe 5 psi max!

I said the heck with it and tried the starter fluid anyway which nearly worked twice out of 6 times. Even tried resetting the throttle body after first try on all 6 cylinders before trying the second and third tries. I don't have compressed air to do a leak down test. Also I believe (may be wrong) most cars ask minimum 100 psi? I (think) BMW 330ci ZHP manual states 146 minimum psi. I want to cry. Any positive thoughts? Lol. Edit: I just don't get it. Water potentially got in cylinder 5 and cylinder 6, not cylinder 1. It's an inline straight 6. cylinder 1 is closer to front of car and the hood vents are over cylinder 5 and 6, near the cabin filter and windshield.

Okay, disregard last message. Here's more up to date compression test when I'm not rushing because of incoming rain...

Cylinder 1 60-80psi (disregard the zero)
Cylinder 2 60psi (90 yesterday)
Cylinder 3 100psi (60 yesterday)
Cylinder 4 60psi (50-60 yesterday)
Cylinder 5 70psi (120 yesterday)
Cylinder 6 70psi (120 yesterday)

I personally believe I threw the numbers off by placing a teaspoon or two oil in the cylinders couple hours before compression test, plus I was in huge rush. Still not healthy but I can work with these numbers better than zero!

True, that is better then zero but they are half of what they need to be. I think you found the issue.

I attached the spec but it is in a measurement called "bar" but when converted to PSI your compression needs to be 174-203 PSI and pretty equal across the board.

Just confirm for me that you have the 330 Ci with the M54 3.0L engine. If so that is your spec.

Remind me of the repairs or upgrades you did to the engine. Did any of them have to do with cam, valves, or heads in anyway?

I do have 330ci with 3 liter m54 engine. I did not do anything to the cams, valves, or heads. Only direct engine work I can think of was replace the valve cover that was slightly cracked, valve cover gasket and grommets, and replaced spark plugs.

That is very odd then. We don't just lose compression on all cylinders overnight and the valve cover won't cause this.

We need to do a cylinder leakage test at this point to see where we are losing compression. Here is a video that does a decent job at showing how to do it:

https://youtu.be/WHli-wLy9_o

Just do a couple cylinders and see if they are leaking in the same place. I doubt you need to them all as I suspect we have one issue.

I don't know that I lost compression overnight. I personally believe the engines just not had the best of owners in the past. Not saying bad owners, just not the best, myself included. Until recently I wasn't keeping up on it either. I can't help but think this is an ignition or fuel issue, despite it not starting with starter fluid. I can't help but think it's something I've done, and nothing I've done seems to be major based on the fact that there wasn't grinding metal or smoke when it quit. There is 196,000 miles on an engine that hasn't been kept up well. I think it's too low fuel, not enough air for some reason... But you know light years more than me, that's just my thoughts, I'm here to learn. I'll do a wet compression test in morning but I can't do leak down test because I don't have compressed air.

Sorry for all the issues with compression testing! Realized today the tester I rented from AutoZone was loose so was losing psi through the gauge like an idiot. Did wet testing today multiple times. 180psi in cylinders 1-3 and 190 psi in cylinders 4-6. So don't think any issues there. I'm much less stressed now!

So now I'm back on the wild goose chase I guess trying to figure out the crank no start issue. Won't start with starter fluid but tries really hard. Fuel filter was horrible, replaced that. MAF sensor coming in this week. If fuel injectors are clogged, wouldn't it still start with starter fluid if that were the issue? I'm leaning towards ignition issue or fuel pump or injectors, possible MAF sensor but don't think so because it won't start even with MAF unplugged.

I may have found the problem!!! Question, if Crankcase Ventilation system (oil separator) has a hose ripped in half on the hose connecting to bottom of CCV, that could cause engine to not start, correct? It's unmetered air entering the system. My fault codes are pointing to too much air, not enough fuel. The hose in particular that's ripped in half leads from bottom of CCV to the oil dipstick tube. CCV system is very well known for going bad on these cars, particularly that exact hose in that exact spot! Fingers crossed! I ordered the insulated cold climate version from BMW manufacturer just to be safe. Really really hoping!!!

Sure can. Let me know. Thanks for the update. Glad to hear the compression appears okay.

I replaced the CCV. That was really difficult with the intake manifold still in place. I'll sell that car before I ever do that again! I would've never known that system was there had I not seen the cracked hose from under the car last week. Who came up with that idea of 4 hoses and a crazy cyclone system instead of the normal simple elbow? Anyway, it started up! Blows white smoke everywhere and can hear a tick in engine. Getting p0604 code now but I'm gonna check my ECM fuse box tomorrow. It got dark on me and I'm exhausted. My only guess is possible blown fuse? Can't find much online but that 604 code only came up after I removed dme relay while doing wet compression tests last week. Also still getting p0102 MAF A Circuit Low. Only two codes I'm getting. Still afraid to drive it or even rev engine with that 604 code. I think I can take it from here but I want to sincerely thank you for all your input! You've been a wonderful asset to my 5 week endeavor! I'd be happy to send a Starbucks card or something brother I'd have given up weeks ago if not for your input. Thank you so much. And let me know how I can get ya that gift card!

Awesome! That is progress. Excellent work.

As for this code.

P0604 - Internal Control module Random Access memory error.

It is most likely an internal issue with the ECM. However, I suspect that will clear once you give it a couple drive cycles if it is not a failed ECM. I would just let it idle for a little while and see if the tick and smoke resolve themselves. The smoke may just be water, oil, burning out and the lifters may be tapping a little and could pump up. We want smooth idle and no knocking. You hear this, shut it down.

P0102 - MAF circuit low

Again, I would see if this comes back after a couple drive cycles.

Based on these codes I don't see anything that would give me pause of running the engine. Clearly we want to see the smoke and tic noise to clear up but again, I would just take it a few short drives with easy driving and see what happens.

Lastly, you are very kind with the gift card idea. I do love coffee but even more so, I enjoy random acts of kindness. So if you feel compelled to do so, just hand that card to someone you see in a store that you feel could use it. You making their day better will make mine better. Thanks!