Possible Ignition switch issue?

Ken, thank you for your reply and diagrams. I ordered both parts mentioned yesterday. I also have the complete wiring manual for this car, but it gets difficult to visualize the components. As soon as the weather clears up, I'll test the wires to the position sensor. This car has had issues with wires corroding inside the covering in the past.

Hello Ken,
I installed a new ignition switch a few days ago. Couldn't get the car out of park. No electric to instruments or to start car.

The power to the switch comes directly from the battery junction box via 30A fuse.
It branches into two wires before the ignition switch. Looks like the switch actually has two internal switches. (I have the wiring manual.

I installed the neutral safety switch yesterday Nothing changed. I'll loosen and check the linkage tomorrow.
I discovered the release to get the shifter out of park.
Turning the key on and waiting for 10 or 15 seconds, I would sometimes have power to the instrument panel. The car would then start.
Still shuts everything off when the shifter is moved to reverse. Then the instrument panel lights would either get extremely dim or go out altogether.
Playing with the turn signal lever seemed to affect power to the instrument panel.

I checked the power to the ignition switch. It was good on both wires.

Some of the behavior is like a poor ground or a short, but it doesn't explain the shutdown no electric in reverse.
I don't see the connection between the reverse and the ignition switch.

I plan to check the transmission linkage. The arm at the transmission, with the plastic grommet, was replaced last November (11/23).
I will double check fuses for the transmission.
The reverse lights are linked in some way. I plan to check for a short.

My problem isn't unique, though I have found no common denominator for a solution.

Hello Ken,
My latest reply, late yesterday, never posted.

The ignition switch supplies power to the central junction box and several fuses. One fuse, F4, supplies power to the safety switch, which directs it to the backup lights when in reverse.
[Battery cables, power and connections are all good.]

I removed the F4 fuse. The engine now starts and shifts into reverse.
There is some hesitation on startup, like the fuel pressure is not holding from one day till the next. I'll address that later.

My problem is far from solved but redirected to a wiring issue.
The wiring (just 2), for the backup lights, branches off just left of the glove box. Should be easy to check that part.

The turn signal, left or right, will now shut the car down instantly.

I cannot find any link between the turn signal switch and the ignition switch. I still need to review more diagrams. They seem to be separate. This could point toward a problem inside the central junction box. [Mice?]

I don't mind investing in a new turn signal switch as the auto return hasn't worked over the past 9 years. A new switch will help narrow the search for the cause.

Enjoy your week.
Bill

Battery and grounds are all solid. Sure are a lot of them. There were no new codes. Still have one for the catalytic converter(s). It's been there since 2016.
The problem with the ignition switch and now the turn signal are both linked by fuse F8 and the lighting control module.
Bill

Hi Ken, the only noise was that of the engine shutting off. The car would lose all power at the moment it was shifted into reverse.
I'm in the process of accessing the wiring from the junction box. I'll touch base when I have more to report.