1996 Plymouth Voyager Error Code 11

Rescanned the computer again might be a different code/s this time

Let me ask this-How are you retrieving the code/s?

DTC 11 Engine has not been cranked since battery was disconnected. This code came from a 95-down, you should be getting a P -code/s

Go ahead and check the Cam Sensor

11 IGN reference signal.
12 Battery input to PCM disconnected during last 50 key starts.
13 MAP sensor pneumatic circuit.
14 MAP sensor electrical circuit.
15 Vehicle speed/distance sensor.
16 Open or shorted condition detected in knock sensor circuit.
17 Engine running too cool.
21 Oxygen sensor circuit.
22 Coolant temperature sensor circuit.
23 Intake air temp. Sensor voltage high.
24 Throttle position sensor.
25 IAC motor driven circuit.
27 Fault in injector driver interface circuit.
31 Purge solenoid circuit.
32 Fault in EGR diagnostics.
34 Speed control solenoid circuits.
33 A/C cutout relay circuit.
35 Fan control relay circuit.
41 Charging system excess or no field current.
42 ASD relay circuit.
43 Fault in ignition coil control circuit.
44 Battery Temp Voltage.
45 Overdrive Solenoid open or shorted
46 Battery voltage too high.
47 Battery voltage too low.
51 Oxygen feedback system stuck at lean position.
52 Oxygen feedback system stuck at rich position.
53 Internal logic module problems.
54 No cam position signal.
55 Completion of fault code display.
62 Indicates unsuccessful attempt to update EMR mileage.
63 Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the controller.
64 Methanol sensor voltage too low.

The hall effect sensor in the distributor

Hi guys. This problem sounds suspiciously like what I just solved on my '88 Grand Caravan after putting up with it for 11 months. It finally started acting up more often than the couple of times per week; in fact, it left me sit on the side of the road. That was the first time I caught it with no spark. Had been driving with a fuel pressure gauge attached, and that showed no problem while driving.

It ended up being the ignition coil. Weird thing was it acted much worse on hot days and after driving for a mile or more, AND, it got worse after replacing the 12 year old spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor! I opened up the plug gap a little which made the coil work harder to fire them. That should have been the clue right there but I kept driving for another week until it died completely.

Here's the other weird thing. On one of those rare days where it died every few hundred yards, then would restart after a couple of minutes, the engine would cut out completely at anything over three quarter throttle, (just like you turned the ignition switch off), then would pick back up when releasing the throttle. As it got worse, it would cut out at half throttle, then quarter throttle. Took a half hour to get up a steep hill close to home. Every time it stalled, I jumped out and bypassed the starter relay under the hood so I could check for spark, and it was always there, and of course then it would always start again. Nursed it home and could duplicate it in the yard. When raising rpm slowly, I could reach any speed, but when snapping the throttle open quickly, as you would do when pulling out to pass someone, the engine completely cut out, and it would cut back in when releasing the throttle. Acted exactly like a worn or disconnected accelerator pump on a carburetor. All I could see on a scanner was the injector pulse width was changing from 3.7 milliseconds to over 10 milliseconds when I snapped the throttle.

I can only guess that under heavy acceleration, more spark voltage was needed to fire the plugs, (normally a richer mixture is easier to fire), and either the coil wasn't delivering that needed voltage or the Engine Computer was shutting the spark down to protect itself. Regardless, with a used coil, it's been running perfectly for over 200 miles. Funny thing is, the fuel pressure bleeds down when sitting and yet the engine starts instantly. I figured the injectors were leaking and the engine was starting on the fuel that puddled in the intake, but sometimes it takes a few seconds for the pressure to come up yet the engine runs fine. Hope I'm not due for a pump failure.

Your fault code 11 would indicate there is something else going on. I had my distributor down to the sensor but they give so little trouble so I didn't change it. The other clue was when the engine would not start, the scanner showed the automatic shutdown relay was commanded on during cranking. That meant the computer had to be getting the pulses from the sensor. What sent me there on a wild goose chase is there are two different sensors. One is used only below 1200 rpm so I thought that might have something to do with the engine cutting out above a certain speed. In my case there were no codes so the problem had to be in something not monitored by the computer, and that includes the coil secondary.

The whole purpose of this sad tale is to point out that the fault code might be misleading although I don't see how it would set due to a bad coil. Had to reply though because it sure sounds like what I had for symptoms.

Caradiodoc

Well, I'll hold my breath for now but I'm keeping my fingers crossed. The bad thing about intermittent problems is you only know it's not solved when the problem occurs again. When it doesn't act up, you don't know if it's fixed or just waiting to act up again at the most inopportune time.

Caradiodoc