Camshaft position sensor?

It should be on the end of cylinder head.

Hi SonyDime,

Attached is the procedure that shows the location as well. Let me know if you need more information. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed. Thanks

CMP sensor can be also used to synchronize the injectors. And identifies the firing sequence of the cylinders.

You have a crankshaft position sensor have them check that out-its located on right front side of engine block.

Could I ask why you are concentrating so much on the CKP sensor. What was the original fault?

NOTE:If replacing Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the correct vehicle mileage and Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) must be programmed into the PCM to prevent Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) from being set in the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) module and Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) module. To program PCM and clear DTCs from ABS and SRS modules, see PCM PROGRAMMING. If replacing Powertrain Control Module (PCM) on models equipped with a Smart Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM), the secret key data must also be updated to enable engine starting. To update secret key data.

Sorry to take so long to reply. I was hoping someone else had an answer. When you're checking for spark, do you have the other spark plug wires attached to their spark plugs? If you do not, you may not get any spark even from a good coil. When you think of the older distributor systems, and you pulled off a plug wire, that was the only break in the circuit and it was the only place the spark had to jump. With your distributorless system, two spark plugs are in series and the spark jumps both gaps at the same time. If one wire is removed from the plug creating a gap that's too big for the spark to jump, there won't be any current flow so there won't be any spark at the other wire either where you might be testing.

Have you checked for diagnostic fault codes?

First of all, you checked for spark correctly by having the other three wires connected to the plugs, (as long as the plugs were installed).

12 volts at the coil for three seconds is longer than normal but is okay. One second is typical.

The erratic 12 volts during cranking has a very common cause on the single cam engines. You said, "Timing is dead on and the cam shafts are rotating", which I took to mean you have the dual overhead cam engine. If you have the single cam engine, remove the cam sprocket and check if the dowel pin is sheared off.

You're getting wrapped around the axle with confusion and you missed some of my points. You can not remove all the spark plug wires and expect to have spark. Each coil feeds two spark plugs at the same time. If either one is disconnected, that break in the circuit will prevent both from firing.

My story about the camshaft dowel pin doesn't apply to your dual cam engine, just to the single cam engine. The timing belt and sprockets are lined up perfectly giving the false illusion that valve timing is perfect. When the dowel pin shears off, that lets the camshaft turn very slightly on the sprocket. You're looking at the timing mark on the sprocket but the camshaft position sensor is looking at the position of the camshaft on the other end. That's where it will be late in relation to the crankshaft position sensor. When the camshaft is off by the equivalent of one tooth, the Engine Computer will turn on the Check Engine light and set the fault code "cam and crank sync". At the equivalent of two teeth off, the computer will shut the engine down to protect the valves. It does that by turning off the automatic shutdown relay. The common clue there is that erratic 12 volts you had at the dark green / orange feed wire at the coil pack or any injector. You can't learn anything by observing the camshaft turning, and there's no way to visually tell the camshaft has turned on the sprocket except to pull the sprocket off and look at the dowel pin. In your case we can forget that. I have never heard of this problem occurring on the dual cam engines.

At this point the best thing to do is get your hands on a scanner that displays live data and look at the cam and crank sensors. During engine cranking they will be listed as "present" or "no". If both are present you will also see the ASD relay listed as "on".

P1391 †Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP

On older engines they would stall if the signal from the crank or the cam position sensor dropped out, but on most newer ones a running engine will stay running when the cam signal disappears but a stopped engine will not start because the automatic shutdown relay won't turn on. I would look first at the cam sensor's connector to be sure there's no corrosion on the terminals and they aren't spread and making poor contact. I don't like throwing random parts at a problem but in this case you may need to try a new cam sensor to see what happens.