Persistent front wheel ratcheting Noise

Tiny
KLOKUS48
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 1.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 184,000 MILES
Since given this car three years ago, there has been this ratcheting, dragging sort of noise coming from inside the driver side front wheel. Had brake pads, rotors, and right front axle replaced eighteen months ago-with no effect on this noise. Have now been told by a mechanic that the left axle, and the brake pads need replacing, and that it is this axle problem that affected my newish brake pads, and, most significantly, is causing the noise that I have described. Yet, how can this be when I have been hearing this noise before getting new brakes and the new axle, and the actions had no effect on this noise. Do not hear the clicking, upon turning, nor do I perceive any vibrating, shaking or shuddering. Only if I go over seventy five mph, there is some mild shuddering. This noise begins as soon as I start driving forward and continues until I reach about forty mph, or above, at which point it completely stops, until I slow down again. The noise occurs during turning and when driving straight. Recently, I have noticed it seems louder, and also now has a sort of echoing, it hollow quality to it. Any thoughts on this? Would be so very grateful to hear them.
Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 3:07 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,506 POSTS
That sounds like a bad CV joint. If you turn sharp and drive slowly forward or in reverse do you hear it clicking then? If yes it is likely the outer CV joint if no but you do hear the noise more it is probably the inner joint.
If you could please record a short video of the sound and upload it here that would be a big help.
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Wednesday, October 11th, 2017 AT 11:12 PM
Tiny
KLOKUS48
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I must apologize for the misleading way in which I tried to say that I do not hear the clicking noise that commonly occurs when turning with a failing axle, and/or failing CV joint. I now realize that it sounds like I am just referring to the title's persistent ratcheting noise as being a clicking noise also. It absolutely is not at all like the clicking noise commonly heard with a failing axle (there are many videos of people recording that clicking noise, and it is not even remotely the same). Again, I apologize. Likewise, when I said that there is no vibrating, and so on, I meant that this is another "failing axle" symptom that my car does not have. My problem noise definitely is very audible when I drive forward very slowly, and is just about constant when I continue to keep driving forward, while increasing my speed -up to around forty mph, at which point it disappears. I just checked to see if it occurs in reverse, but for some strange reason the noise does not seem to want to cooperate with me getting help to figure out what is behind it. I can still hear it, but no way near the degree that I do every other day when I am not trying to do something about it. I had my son on standby to address Steve W's request that I record a short video of the sound, but weirdly, again, I kind of have to strain to hear it, today, and doubt it would be clearly audible right now on a recording. As a matter of fact, for the first time It is only audible at all driving, both stepping on the gas, or coasting, at speeds if twenty mph to forty mph (as opposed to it being very audible under the above conditions and the others that I have mentioned consistently every other day prior to today). Today it is not audible when turning, but if definitely has been every other day for the past three years. It, however, has never been more audible, or worse, turning, than it is when driving forward. Again, I am do sorry for my poor and ambiguous description. Thank you Steve for still addressing my question.
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Thursday, October 12th, 2017 AT 10:20 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,506 POSTS
No problem. Sounds can be very difficult to diagnose or describe. With all the various moving parts and ways things can fail it can drive you crazy trying to track them down. I use a few tools to track them down, one is a simple digital recorder, I have four of them. You push a button and it records for up to twenty minutes. I added a magnetic mount so I can stick them to various locations and record. The other is a chassis ear system. Six clamp on sensors that convert vibration into sound that you can select and listen to as you drive.

As for the axle, the inner joint can fail and cause some strange sounds.
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Thursday, October 12th, 2017 AT 12:14 PM
Tiny
KLOKUS48
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I was able to confirm a split boot -front driver's side, connected to the tire. So I know I need a new CV joint, and very possibly the whole axle. But, I know this repair will not resolve the persistent ratcheting noise, because as I said this noise first led me to get new brake pads and rotors eighteen months ago. And during that repair I was told the front right axle also needed replacing, which was done. To my dismay, driving away, that same ratcheting noise that I mention in the title. Began, unchanged, from how it was prior to the above repairs. And, it has continued to the present. FYI- I experienced none of the usual symptoms of a failing axle at that time either. I just want to thank you, Steve, not only for your efforts st addressing my problem, but for your kindness in how you reacted to my preventable clouding of the issue. Your consideration is very much noticed, and appreciated. So, right now I have to find a service center to replace the CV joint/boot/axle, and I have had mostly nightmares when it comes to the service station experience. So, I am armed with some knowledge, from someone that I feel I can trust, can you tell me the price range for a CV joint replacement, a whole axle replacement, and the factors that will decide which of those two repairs I will be told is necessary? My appreciation really is quite unexpressable.
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Thursday, October 12th, 2017 AT 1:28 PM
Tiny
KLOKUS48
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I was able to confirm a split boot -front driver's side, connected to the tire. So I know I need a new CV joint, and very possibly the whole axle. But, I know this repair won't resolve the persistent ratcheting noise, because as I said this noise first led me to get new brake pads and rotors 18 months ago. And during that repair I was told the front right axle also needed replacing, which was done. To my dismay, driving away, that same ratcheting noise that I mention in the title. Began, unchanged, from how it was prior to the above repairs. And, it has continued to the present. FYI- I experienced none of the usual symptoms of a failing axle at that time either. I just want to thank you, Steve, not only for your efforts st addressing my problem, but for your kindness in how you reacted to my preventable clouding of the issue. YYour consideration is very much noticed, and appreciated. So, right now I have to find a service center to replace the CV joint/boot/axle, and I have had mostly nightmares when it comes to the service station experience. So, I am armed with some knowledge, from someone that I feel I can trust, can you tell me the price range for a CV joint replacement, a whole axle replacement, and the factors that will decide which of those two repairs I will be told is necessary? My appreciation really is quite unexpressable.
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Thursday, October 12th, 2017 AT 1:34 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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I wouldn't even bother with just the joint. Everything has to come apart and you need to remove the axle to replace the joint. It's usually cheaper and faster to replace the entire shaft.

Pricing depends a lot on your location and what is considered normal. For instance I can get a good axle for that car for around $100.00 and labor would run about 1.5 hours. So you would be in and out for under $200.00. BUT the book price on that axle is close to $600.00 ! If the shop uses that number you wouldn't be walking away for under $900.00.
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Thursday, October 12th, 2017 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
KLOKUS48
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Wow! Who on Earth would pay anything close to $900- for an axle to be replaced on a car that is almost 19 years old! By the Grace of God (I believe), immediately after posting my previous response I impulsively called Meineke, where an old neighbor recently became manager, but who I have not spoken to for years due to a disagreement. He no longer works there, but I figured I would get a quote for the axle, since I was already on the phone with them. $249.99 for the whole axle replacement! This is just about the price you quoted for your area, with a $50 adjustment for my area's close to $100/hr labor charges. You just made my day, as after I felt "heard", by Jerry, at Meineke, regarding my other separate problem (persistent ratcheting noise), was told "yes" I could drive it the 20 mins there, with the split open boot that I saw myself, and could do that right then, I did. The manager drove my car several times around the huge parking lot (fwd, reverse, etc), listening for the noise, which, not surprisingly (considering my car's unusual, earlier display of temperamental behavior), did not occur. He even began explaining how the usual clicking upon turning noise heard when a car has a failing axle, or CV joint, often sounds different, in different cars-which does seem reasonable enough- if it weren't for the facts explained earlier that point to a different, separate, and additional problem. But he then surprised me by asking if I would go for a ride with him in my car, which I did. I was just about convinced this problem was never going to be resolved, when just ONCE, the persistent ratcheting noise occurred! It was brief, but loud, and THAT killed the doubts he started to have, regarding me having any clue as to what I was talking about! He said it could be something (I forgot), scraping the rotor, but either way, he now knew what he would be looking for tomorrow! Who would have guessed that the only other person, besides yourself, in 3 years, to give me the benefit of the doubt would be found at a Meineke Shop! So I live and learn. Thank you, Steve, so, so much for your incredible patience reading through these endless, rambling posts (how to be concise completely eludes me); for taking me seriously, without any hint of condescension; for your kindness, for your time; and for the tremendous help you have given me- without cost! Honestly, if it was not for your previous reply, I would have tortured myself for hours (literally), comparing innumerous quotes for the axle job, in order to convince myself that another service station was not, once again, taking me for a long, long ride! God Bless!
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Thursday, October 12th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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There are shops out there that wouldn't bat an eye at charging that amount.
Sounds like you have things under control. It's always good when thing happen while the guy who is repairing it or at least writing it up hears the problem.

Good luck and don't hesitate to return with the news that the noise is gone.
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Thursday, October 12th, 2017 AT 7:21 PM
Tiny
KLOKUS48
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Jerry, the manager at Meineke, called around 9:30 am to say that the work on my car. Was completed, and that I could pick it up. Since he had told me yesterday that he would call me today once he positively identified the cause of that noise, I assume so that he could tell me the cost, and verify that I wanted him to do that repair, I was somewhat surprised when he did not mention it at all. So, of course, I asked him about it. He replied, "Oh, that is just the baseplate occasionally scraping the rotor (exactly what he guessed, right after hearing the noise). He then implied that some sort of adjusting was done, as he specifically said that "You can barely hear it anymore.". He did not mention any charge for this. Also, yesterday, he had told me that the diagnostic work done to identify the cause of that noise would not cost me anything.". I asked him, during that call today, if that meant that it would not be problematic to drive the car with the baseplate? Scraping the rotor? He said "No.". My question for you is does that sound "right" to you, or do you think that this scraping could potentially shorten the longevity of the rotor? I have to wonder if this could explain why the brake pads and rotors had needed replacement twice within 2 years. Do you have any idea, without seeing my car, if the baseplate is something with only limited adjustability? Yes, the car is almost 19 years old, but for the most part, it runs great, and actually passes Emissions. However, I can appreciate the age of the car possibly influencing the outcome of reasonable options. I know nothing, at this point, about baseplates, although I am sure I will be doing some research prior to picking up my car. For the most part, I feel like I should just accept this, and be grateful I only have to pay for the axle replacement. Your thoughts on this would be most appreciated, Steve. Thank you.
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Friday, October 13th, 2017 AT 11:28 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,506 POSTS
He means the backing plate, basically the tin shield that keeps rocks and junk from beating on the rotor. Adjustment basically means "We took a pry bar and hammer and bent it so it doesn't rub now" Probably sometime in the past a brake job was done or a rock/tree/whatever hit it enough to bend it. It's the part with the arrow pointing at it.
Not a part to lose sleep over. I've had rocks get stuck in there and it makes a sound like you are dragging an iron safe down the road!

It wouldn't cause brake wear though. That is normally from driving type/style. Lots of stop/go will eat up brakes, while the guy who drives on the clear highway might get 100,000 miles on his. Same if they drive like my niece, She drives a stick and has never heard of downshifting, just run up to the stop sign with her foot on the brake and hope they hold !
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Friday, October 13th, 2017 AT 3:25 PM
Tiny
KLOKUS48
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
So, I picked it up, and I did not hear the noise at all all the way home! Funny that you mentioned that "it makes a sound like you are dragging an iron safe." Because the word dragging was my word of choice up until recently (I even included it in my 1st post about this. Many times I described it as "it sounds like something metal is dragging, but I can't see anything when I look under the car!" Unfortunately, that didn't seem to "ring any bells" with anyone, so I hoped expanding my description would get better results.
Anyway, the total cost for everything was $279.12 (includes tax and the inevitable shop supplies). I am pretty happy about that. So, thank you again Steve. You made this so much easier, and I really appreciate all your help. Take care! Michelle
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Friday, October 13th, 2017 AT 9:14 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,840 POSTS
Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, October 16th, 2017 AT 1:39 PM
Tiny
KLOKUS48
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
This forum is fantastic. I have a lot more peace of mind, knowing that when my next car problem arises, I can check in, here, for objective, professional advice. Thank you for this priceless service.
Sincerely, M. Klokus
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Wednesday, October 18th, 2017 AT 12:17 PM

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