Pcm location

PCM is right next to PDC under hood and fuel pump relay is in pdc. See pictures.

Yup, it is attached right under the "smart" fuse box. Brake light coming on does not have anything to do with the fuel pump relay though. More likely a bad switch or shorted wire if the brakes are working properly.

Mine does not have a PCM near the PDC, but it has a ECU in the PDC, but still cannot find fuel pump relay and cannot get power to the fuel pump unless I run a hot wire from battery to it. But, that will not do me any good if I cannot get the injectors to pulse and operate properly.

Like I said cannot find the PCM. I have taken fuse box out but cannot find it.
I have the 2.4 s.o.h.c. if that makes a difference.

Just talk with Chrysler dealer and the said it should be in center of engine compartment in firewall and if not there it is more than likely under dashboard.
Thanks so much for all of your help in this matter .

Okay, your picture is the relay box of a 2004. Using that the MFI relay that controls injector power is the middle one on the left in your picture (A-18). Fuse 24 (15 amp) is the fuel pump power feed.

Pump relays one and two are in the junction block (inside car) on the right side of the block. There will be two empty spaces on top right then C-305 is fuel pump relay one then an accessory relay and C-307 is fuel pump relay two.

Staying with 2004 the PCM will be behind the glove box attached to the heater plenum.
Sorry for the confusion. Mid year changes can get interesting.

Is that the bottom of the heater box just below the radio?

Because I was thinking about it being behind glove box but when I removed cover it was not there and Chrysler dealer said it should be about middle of the car. if that is true then it should be somewhere in the vicinity of the radio. have you ever run into a problem like this because it sure is confusing?

And then on another note I have a. 2004 Chrysler town and country that has 197000 on it and the problem with it that I have is a cylinder three misfire and a o2 sensor heater problem o2 sensors have been replaced already plugs wires and coil have been replaced as well, but I am still have the same problem any thoughts on how to fix these issues a good friend told me that it could be compression loss but that did not make sense to me because you can feel it missing at idle. But, when driving down the road it does not seem to miss at all then the other night I watched a video on YouTube about another vehicle that had a random misfire and it was crankshaft sensor and I wonder if that could be what is wrong with it as well?

misfires are hard to detect, it could still be a basic engine problem as well. the reason you do this is so you do not spend money on good parts that you have already changed and not the problem. You can check fuel pressure with a gauge and check for a vacuum leak.

Here some guides that can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Misfires can be a bear. With a single cylinder it's a bit easier. You've changed the plugs/coil/wires so that should rule out ignition issues. Next in line would be to unplug the injector and test it to see if it is shorted or failed open. Or you could pull the injector and move it to another cylinder and see if the misfire follows it. Not fun on those engines. If you have access to a scope it makes it easier, you can look at two injectors and see them operating. An old trick is to thread a piece of hose down next to the injector and listen at the other end to see if you hear the ticking as the solenoid opens/closes. A quick compression check wouldn't hurt, as you friend mentioned it is possible for a compression loss to cause a problem. Let us know what you find.

On the PCM, it could be behind the radio toward the middle.

OK thanks I will let you know what I find

What do u think that the o2 sensor problem is they ar both new upstream and downstream but the upstream is the one that's saying that it has a heater problem and that is why I changed them as well as the coil died as well for the back three cylinder s which in turn made the cat red hot and that's when the heater problem started so I changed them and still have the problem

If it got that hot I'd look at the wiring harness itself for damage. The heater circuits are not hard to trace. One side goes to ground and the other is switched power. What code shows up? Those can sometimes be a good pointer. Oh which engine 3.3 or 3.8?

3.8

OK
B1 S1 - Upstream O2 sensor heater uses a BRown w/Light Green tracer for the power control and BlacK w/Light Green tracer for the ground side.

B1 S2 - Downstream O2 sensor heater uses a BRown w/WhiTe tracer for the power control and BlacK w/Dark Blue tracer for the ground side.

They connect the grounds at a splice (S100) and from there to a battery ground. Simple voltage test would show if they shorted to power and a continuity test to the bat negative terminal will show if they are open.

Upstream BR/LG wire goes into Connector 2 on the PCM at terminal 18
Downstream BR/WT wire goes into Connector 3 on the PCM at terminal 9

If they are open or grounded the heater circuit will throw a fault.

OK thanks I will check it out tonight when I get home