Passenger side window control switch located on the drivers side window control

I would like to add some additional information to my problem concerning the operation of the passenger side power window. if the passenger side window is down, i can raise the window using the drivers side controls. if the window is closed and i try to lower it. Using the drivers side control (by moving the switch backward....the fuse #13 will blow. i have the factory manual (all circuitry is shown) and using the schematic to view all the circuitry that fuse 13 is not /does not have anything to do with the window wiring system. that is illogical. I had the Chrysler dealer work on the turn signal system. Sometime after that is when i noted the problem with passenger. System window. He may just did a workaround and as a result somehow wired that switch so that moving that switch backward shorts fuse 13 to ground. now to add to that ,the passenger side window control switch operates the window raise/lower properly. how do i remove the window master controller to examine the wiring?
There may not be a fix for that if a dealer did some rewiring to get the turn signals to work a $300.00 cost. if you can give advice it would be greatly appreciated. If not that is okay.
i do not know if i added this comment in the proper place.
Ben..

Before we get too deep in the diagnosis, I recall there are little green LED lights on top of the window switches. That is part of the interior lighting system. By far the most common thing that comes to mind are broken or frayed wires between the driver's door hinges. You might find a clue to this by observing the fuse no longer blows when you operate the windows with the driver's door open or part-way open.

I'd suggest opening up the boot and inspecting those wires first. If you find some that are frayed, I'll describe how I handled that at the dealership. If the wires look okay, I'm going to have you replace the blown fuse with a pair of generic spade terminals, then use a pair of small jumper wires to connect them to a small 12-volt light bulb. I like to use a 3057 tail light bulb because they're easy to connect to, but that will limit current to only one amp. That's not enough to run the window motors. You might have better luck using a head light bulb. That will allow five amps to flow. The windows will run slowly, but that's not what we're after. You're going to find the bulb turns on less than full brightness when you try to run a window. When you do something that causes the short to occur, the bulb will be full brightness. That shows the short is acting up, but you won't be wasting dozens of fuses.

If we find it necessary to use this troubleshooting trick, I'll post a diagram that might explain it better.