Passenger CV Axle

Hello, I am Danny.

Usually the first symptoms of CV joint failure is a clicking sound more noticeable when making turns. CV joints tend to fail more often when the boots are torn/ripped/leaking. Have you taken to a shop to have sound diagnosed? I have attached a tutorial showing what is involved in its replacement. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can hear the noise? That would be great. You can upload it here with your response.

Steering problem
1999 Chrysler Sebring 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

boot scrubbing when I turn wheel. Should I replace just boot or whole side CV axle

Are you refering to the CV joint boot? If so, is the cv joint clicking when you make sharp turns? IF not, then you could get away with just a boot. However, if you have to pay someone to replace it, you are better off replacing the entire half shaft . By the time you pay labor to remove the joint, clean it, repack it, and reinstall the new boot, you could have paid for the new half shaft with new CV joints included.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

I have been hearing noises for a while now and a couple of guys have mentioned that my CV joint is wearing out. Well, now it sounds like it really is. The thunking, bumping noises and shaking steering wheel are constant and terrible. How do I replace the DV joint?

Remove or disconnect the following:
WARNING
Use of improper methods of joint separation can result in damage to the joint, leading to possible failure.

NOTE
After pressing the outer shaft, insert a pry bar between the transaxle case and the halfshaft and pry the shaft from the transaxle.

WARNING
Do not pull on the shaft. This could damage the inboard joint. Do not insert the pry bar too far or the oil seal in the case may be damaged.



The negative battery cable The cotter pin, nut lock, and spring washer The halfshaft nut, loosen it while the vehicle is on the floor with the brakes applied The wheel The brake caliper assembly and support it on a wire The brake rotor The halfshaft nut and washer The tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Joint Separation Tool MB991113




The speed sensor cable routing bracket, if equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) The sway bar link from the damper fork, if necessary The damper fork assembly The steering knuckle from the lower control arm The halfshaft by pressing it from the hub

Inspect the halfshaft boot for damage or deterioration. Check the ball joints and splines for wear.
Replace the circlips on the ends of the halfshaft(s).
Install or connect the following:
NOTE
Before securely tightening the axle nut, be sure there is no load on the wheel bearings.



The halfshaft into the transaxle until it is fully seated The halfshaft into the hub by pulling the knuckle assembly outward The washer. Make sure the chamfered edge faces outward The halfshaft nut and tighten temporarily The control arm to the steering knuckle and torque the nuts to 43-52 ft. lbs. (59-71 Nm) The damper fork and torque the lower through-bolt/nut to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) and the upper pinch bolt to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm) The tie rod end to the steering knuckle and torque the nut to 17-25 ft. lbs. (24-33 Nm) and install the a new cotter pin The sway bar link to the damper fork and torque the link nut to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) The lock washer and axle nut and torque the nut to 145-188 ft. lbs. (200-260 Nm)




The brake rotor and caliper assembly The new cotter pin The wheel. Tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm) The negative battery cable


Check and fill the transaxle with the proper amount and type of fluid.
Test drive the vehicle and check for proper operation.


Thanks for using 2CarPros.com!

Complete remanufactured half shafts are cheaper now than a new cv joint. Do not ever allow the car's weight to rest on the wheel / tire with the cv joint nut loose or the wheel bearing will become very noisy. Be sure to torque that nut with a torque wrench.

caradiodoc

I am replacing the transaxle output shaft seals on my Sebring. I have been able to remove the passenger side CV axle with ease but am unable to remove the drivers side. It acts and feels like it has a clip or something holding it in. Is this so or is it just being stubborn?

Ys there is a clip on axle look at one that is out see the C shaped ring. Got lucky on one but most often they heed persuasion to come out.Take a pry bar or BIG screwdriver place between ehd of joint and trans housing. Then give it a Big pop it will come out. This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

Please run down this guide and report back.

If my ball joints rustedand control arm is disconnected do I HAVE to get whole new control arm assembly or can I just fix ball joint?? 97 chry sebring lxi
Also cv joint boot(I believe that's what its called) torn and grease leaking out how do I have t go about repairing

The ball joint is built into the control arm just like Ford started doing many years before. Makes the car go together on the assembly line faster to save money, but it costs more to fix it later. Very untypical of Chrysler in that era.

If you're near central Wisconsin, I have a bunch of new ones in my garage.

Oops, as for the boot, that can be replaced in about an hour and a half. The kit runs about 20 bucks and includes one or two packets of grease. You can also buy a remanufactured half shaft for less then a hundred dollars, but you always run the risk of getting one with a worn inner cv joint housing that got overlooked. They are tricky to inspect. The reason those shafts are so inexpensive now is they too just replace the boots most of the time and clean them up.