Okay, that one should read some live data. The ECT will be listed as coolant temp or similar. If you test with a cold vehicle it should read the same as the current temperature, then once you start the engine it should rise and top out around 195 or a bit higher. The main thing is does it report the temperature. If it is then the sensor isn't the cause of the code. For the fuel trims you want to look at the ones short and long term. If it is running rich on bank one you will see the fuel trim numbers with a - sign in front of the ones for bank one, as the system will be trying to remove fuel from that side. Ideal fuel trims should total zero, so say you read a long term of -5 but the short term is 9, you are seeing a trim of 4 positive. With a rich code I would expect the trims to read more like -15 long term and -4 or higher on the short term. In that event you need to determine where the extra fuel is coming from. It could be something as simple as the purge solenoid being stuck open. That could show as a rich code depending on where the EVAP system feeds the intake. It could also be something like a bad valve stem seal or oil control rings, the O2 sensors cant tell the difference in what is making the engine run rich, if it's actually fuel or oil, the sensors just see that there isn't enough oxygen in the exhaust.
You will also want to look at the O2 sensor numbers as it's possible that there is an issue with the upstream bank one sensor that is reporting wrong information. All the sensors working together correctly are needed so if the O2 was reading wrong it could also cause this issue. That is why you look at the temperature and fuel trims, to see what they are doing, then compare that to what the O2 sensor is doing.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-oxygen-sensor-02-sensor
Monday, April 12th, 2021 AT 11:33 PM