Parasitic draw - battery drains overnight?

Replaced starter alternator and battery, but battery keeps draining. Runs and drives until battery drains out, then ABS light brake light comes on and dash freaks out with loss of throttle response.

My 2004 Honda Accord sedan will not start. When I put the key in the ignition absolutly nothing happens. The keyless remote doesnt work either. I recieved 2 boosts, the car then started, but when I turned the car off and tried to restart, it would not. Could the battery be completly drained

Since approximately two months, my new battery from this summer can't hold a charge for more than one or two days without being used. I got the battery checked at a garage and it is still good. With my ampmeter I found a leak of 0.13 to 0.15A. Removing each fuse one by one didnt help me to find the leak. I don't know if this leak has always been present, but in my opinion I think that a leak of 0.13A isn't enough to drain all my battery so I can't start it in like 36 hours. The last fix I had on my car was the heather control valve replacement about 3 months ago. Could it cause a probleM? And If I disconnect the battery after I use it, the car can easily start again one week later.

By abs unit you mean the abs relay in the fuse box?

And I think there is some relay / fuse for abs in my car but I don't remember it working since I have the car (4 years ago). There is no abs light in the dash neither

Ok I saw it but what should I get from this?

Need help have a 2000 Honda accord that keeps draining the battery and then it goes bad have had three in the past two month I have done a load test with a volt meter let me describe how I took off the negative battery side of the cable from the battery and place the volt meter wires one to the negative side to the battery and the other side to the negative cable and I get no response im I doing this right or whath as anybody else have had this problem with there Honda and if so did you get it fix and what was the problem

The voltmeter negative lead goes to the negative side of the battery and the positive lead from the meter goes to the cable. NOTE: When you're doing the test make sure there's nothing On such as the glove box and trunk lights are not On etc.

If you get a battery voltage that means you have a short circuit in the electrical system. Start removing fuses one @ a time. The fuse that drops the voltage to zero is the trouble circuit. If you remove all the fuses and you still have battery voltage disconnect the alternator and see what happens.

Having trouble starting car. Got a new battery and my alternator was replaced. Went to start this am and the battery was dead need jumpstarted. Runs after jump started. Took it to dealer a couple of weeks ago they said it was my radio drining power replaced radio still having problems. Also seems like cool ait is always blowing out vent. What to check next?

Thanks rasmataz. What do I need to do there?

Here is another bit of info: I ran a test between the negative pole of the battery and the negative cable and pulled fuses until the light went dim. The radio/cigarette lighter fuse makes the light go very dim. The dealer found this too when they checked it out. I replaced the radio but still have the problem. I pulled the cigarette lighter out and it remains disconnected.

I also hear a hissing noise from the passneger footwell. It's like the noise the air conditioner makes but the AC isnt turned on. I get a lot of dripping water under the car when I park it, even on cool (55 degrees) days. I checked and its just water.

If anyone can help, thanks.