Code P1301, will not stay running?

Hello Sam,

The P1301 code is related to Ignition Coil #1 Open Circuit or Short to B+. This code generally indicates a misfire or ignition-related issue.

So, I would replace the spark plugs and coils for all four cylinders if it passes the compression test which this guide can help with:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Here is how to change the coils out with the spark plugs. Clear the codes once completed. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

Okay I checked the compression dry and wet, solid readings. Switched out the plugs. Here’s my question: do I need to replace the entire DIC? Attached is a video of the part.

Yep, the DIC has a high failure rate and is a common replacement. Let, me know how it goes please. Clear the codes once completed.

Okay, replaced the DIC. Engine started and ran roughly then cut off. Got it to start a couple more times with the same result. Now won’t start.

Crankshaft position sensor?

Hmm, yep, maybe the sensor is weak, and it causes false codes, here is the location of the sensor. Be sure to clear the codes once completed. Check out the images (below).

Just to be on the safe side, this is a Saab trionic for a turbo engine. Is there anything that I’m missing or not checking here?

Do you have the same code? (P1301 code) is you replaced the coil I would replace the spark plug as well, even if it looks good, I have seen them have hairline cracks. Also, is the electrical connector at the coils looks to be in good shape?

Okay I have replaced the spark plugs, the DIC and now the crankshaft position sensor. The code has changed. The current code is P0327. Thoughts?

Hello Sam, this is a knock sensor code. When the engine is running it is making a noise that should not be there, can you please upload a short video from your phone?

Yes. Attached. As you can tell, it’s having a tough time starting up and will die eventually. I have to apply gas to keep it running and then eventually doesn’t want to start at all.

Thanks for the video. To me it sounds like the cat is clogged, this is what is making it stall so fast. I would loosen the head pipe on the exhaust manifold and start the engine to see if there is a difference.

Okay, what a bear that was. It’s still behaving the same. One thing I just found out: my wife put supreme gas in, realizing that she should not have been using regular, and topped it off with a container of Seafoam. It was shortly after this that it happened.

Yes, it can be bad gas, I would try starting fluid into the intake to see if you can get the engine to stay running. Is there a chance that diesel fuel was put into the car?

Omg I hope not.

Okay, so with a spray in it will fire up for a second and then shuts off. I can try it ongoing, but I’ll need to wait to have a second person to help me. What do you think?

Yes, I would try that, we need to know if fuel is the issue which this test to tell us.

Okay, starter fluid gets it to fire up for a second, but it won’t keep running.

When you did the compression test and you said "solid readings" what were they?

Okay, I needed a new fuel pump. Replaced that along with a new fuel filter. Only issue now is code p0327. Everything’s running fine. I’ve reset codes and it keeps coming back on.

That is the first time a fuel pump solved a "P1301 code is related to Ignition Coil #1 Open Circuit or Short to B+. "

That I know of, please start a new thread for the p0327 code.