P0440 & P0446 Codes?

2000 PONTIAC MONTANA
260,000 MILES • 3.4L • AUTOMATIC
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GARAGEMAN402
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The fuel pump on this vehicle has been replaced twice, so the fuel tank has been on & off twice. We have replaced the Canister, Canister Purge Valve, Canister Vent Valve, Gas Cap, still get these codes. I have filled the gas tank up to the brim (3 gallons after it clicks off) in hopes of finding a liquid leak, no leaks. The tank does fill up the last 3 gallons a lot easier now without bubbling up & going down, as if air is getting out. Hot engine restart dies unless throttle is pressed. Any thoughts?
Jun 6, 2026 at 1:08 PM
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STRAILER
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The P0440 is a general EVAP system fault, and P0446 points more toward the EVAP vent control/venting side. Since the fuel tank has been removed twice for pump replacement, the first suspect is something disturbed at the tank.

I would do a smoke test to check the EVAP system this video can help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTNr3IEgVF0&pp=0gcJCSgLAYcqIYzv

You might have a disconnected, cracked, crossed, or kinked EVAP/vent line above the tank, especially near the fuel pump module or filler neck.

Second would be a fuel tank pressure sensor issue or a purge valve leaking vapor into the intake, especially because of the hot restart stalling.

Also, check the vacuum feed line to the EVAP purge valve, if this is leaking the codes will be set. Please upload a short video in your response of the problem, so I can see what's going on

Jun 6, 2026 at 11:12 PM
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GARAGEMAN402
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Thank you for the response! I have watched the mentioned video, that's how I got to this page.
The hot restart stalling is only for the first few seconds, if I give a little throttle while cranking, the idle will stabilize in a few seconds. It's like the computer is expecting vapor, but getting air instead? Does the purge valve open during start?
The CEL has been on continuously & I just got used to it. I just changed the battery which reset the computer so I started thinking about it again. One thing I noticed is the green access cap was loose, I thought it was supposed to be loose like a vent, but I turned it & it closes tight. Is it possible air was getting in that way?
If the CEL comes on again &/or I get the rough idle at hot start, I'll recheck the purge valve. I have a perfectly good valve I took off when I changed all the components last year. The spare holds vacuum so it's good, it was only a year old when I changed it out.
Jun 7, 2026 at 2:51 AM
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STRAILER
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Yes, the green cap must be tight to keep the system sealed. When you reinstalled the cap did you clear the codes and are they not coming back after you drive it for a while? The purge valve normally is not commanded wide open during cranking. Under most conditions, purge is closed during startup and then the PCM begins controlling purge once the engine is running and conditions are correct. Also, I would remove the purge valve to try and blow through it. If you can I would replace the valve.
Jun 8, 2026 at 3:04 PM
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GARAGEMAN402
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That's good to know about the green cap, thank you. As I said earlier, I had just replaced the battery, so the codes were cleared, CEL had not come back on yet as it takes a few cycles for the code to set, haven't even done a hot restart yet.

The purge valve was replaced 1.5 years (8600 miles) ago, AC Delco #214-1026, so I think it's still good. I still have that old one, it was also AC Delco & had been on for 5,000 miles (11 months). I tried to blow through it, it is ok. I will wait & see if it still sets a code, & if it does then I'll check & probably replace the purge valve with the one I have.

As I mentioned in my original post, I have been overfilling the gas tank to try & find any liquid leaks, haven't found any. Does this practice damage the purge valve by allowing liquid gasoline to contact it? As I said, it has been much easier to "top off" since this evap leak has been present. If this fixes the problem I will no longer top off the fuel tank.

Thank you for all the information!!

Edit: I re-read your answer regarding the purge valve. So if it is functioning correctly, the only way it would be contributing to the hot start stall is if it was leaking? I am leaving soon to another state, won't be back until next week, vehicle will probably not be driven. I will check that valve, I only need a length of vacuum hose to check it without removing it. Thanks again!
Jun 8, 2026 at 6:02 PM
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STRAILER
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You are welcome, I feel good about the repair. Have a good week and let me know if it fixes it.
Jun 9, 2026 at 2:36 PM
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GARAGEMAN402
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Hello again, sorry for longer than expected delay, the vacuum line I ordered didn't show up on Sat. so I reordered.

Wife drove the van while I was gone, CEL back on. Checked the installed purge valve, it held 19" vacuum on the intake manifold side, but the tank side held zero. Drops fast from 5". I checked the spare I have & both sides hold vacuum. I didn't go over 7" on the vapor side, didn't want to damage it. Intake manifold side holds steady at 20".

Is this the problem? Is the vapor side of the valve supposed to hold vacuum? I would assume so, so the system can check for air tightness. I tried to blow through it, but it didn't seem to flow through.

I tried getting a vacuum from the line to the tank but it wouldn't hold anything. I took off the gas cap & taped the opening, still nothing. I could smell the vapors so I know it's drawing. Is the canister vent valve normally (not powered) open? If so then that explains that.

It's very hot here now, I'll switch the valve out later tonight.
Jun 18, 2026 at 5:29 PM
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STRAILER
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Yep good call, I have seen the charcoal canister fail and cause a leak as well. Let me know what happens.
Jun 19, 2026 at 2:43 PM
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GARAGEMAN402
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I switched out the valve, reset the code this morning. Been on 2 drive cycles (28 miles one way, 1 hour break, short drive, 1 hour break, then back. Cruise at 55-60mph), so far no light. I will let you know if the light comes back on.

I replaced the canister & vent valve last time (same time I replaced the good purge valve with the defective one lol). Gas cap is new, too.

So the moral of the story is always check "new" parts before installing them. This was a new AC Delco (Delphi) purge valve.
Jun 19, 2026 at 11:25 PM
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STRAILER
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Yep, I have defective parts cause nothing but troubles, thanks for letting us know, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.
Jun 20, 2026 at 4:24 PM
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GARAGEMAN402
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Thank you! Day 2 is over, went on another 2 drive cycles, 35 miles each way with a 3 hour break between. Still no light. I think the problem is solved!

The question is where was the leak in the valve? The manifold line was solidly holding at 19", how was the air getting in to the vapor side? Maybe a crack in the case? I will investigate further. I've had mechanics tell me the vapor side is not supposed to hold a vacuum, & the defective valve was working as designed. This obviously is incorrect. Said the vapor side is only pressure tight, not vacuum tight, it's not designed to hold a vacuum.

The code that was set is P0440 (large leak)

Jun 21, 2026 at 12:47 AM
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STRAILER
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Yep, you nailed it, the valve is suppose to hold and the case can crack allowing the leak. Can you please leave us a rating?

https://g.page/r/CZdEnyCkGgm6EB0/review

and

https://www.sitejabber.com/reviews/2carpros.com

Thank you!
Jun 21, 2026 at 1:02 AM
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