Codes P0335 and P0340?

Tiny
ORLANDO SWEARINGEN
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 277,000 MILES
So, the car was fine when I drove it last and has run fine without any problems at all I have an OBD that is also GPS it stays plugged in it has only given one code in the past that was something about bank 1 dealing with the catalyst or something I'm guessing is the cat converter. I left last night drove to store about a mile away put gas in drove home the car sat for about twenty minutes my wife takes it to the store it shuts off at the end of the block. The dash lights and hazards only door lights dim and blinking radio inoperable. We hook it up to jump it starts up after about one minute of charging we have time to close the hood and I put in drive started to pull off then brake for oncoming after hitting brake dash lights go out car starts to stall doesn't cut right off but loses all power I stop we try to jump again it takes around two minutes and some finessing with the cables to get started after starting I immediately try for home the car stays started but has absolutely no power at all will only drive maybe 2 miles an hour pressing accelerator does nothing letting off the accelerator and the car stutters and dash goes off and stalls out. Towed it home read my codes this morning from my OBD tool and it is showing two new codes but not the old cat code the new codes are crankshaft position sensor A, and camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction or P0335 and P0340 respectively. I am considering the alternator as well but as I've had no starting stalling or crank issues at all till right that moment it just doesn't seem to fit the only thing that makes sense with that is my obd keeps record of batt. Voltage over time mine has been running a steady 12.3-12.5 until last night where it shows a steep and instant drop to 11 flat the battery is from 2018 so it's an old battery I don't know if the cell went bad in that moment or what happened but I know its old I don't have the money for a replacement battery right now though I know I should probably start by replacing that because low voltage could interfere with the sensor signals, right? Would charging the battery be a good first step or testing I mean to be sure the battery is still in good order or should I just replace the cam and crank sensors and try to start again I wasn't sure if the cam and crank sensors could cause the symptom of the voltage problem as far as the lights on dash going out or if it maybe drained battery somehow? I'm clueless Orielly closes in two hours and I have to work and get three kids and a fiancée to school and home as well need urgently to figure this out or at least my next moves. I thank you I advance.
Sunday, May 21st, 2023 AT 4:09 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
BRENDON S
  • MECHANIC
  • 653 POSTS
Hello ORLANDO SWEARINGEN,

It sounds like it could be the battery. I would start by load testing it. If you have a battery charger, I would fully charge it then use the following article to test the battery.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Thank you,
Brendon
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, May 22nd, 2023 AT 8:12 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,244 POSTS
Here is how to change the battery out in case you need it.

Battery

Removal and Installation

Removal
1. Remove air duct (front).
2. Loosen battery terminal nuts and disconnect both battery cables from battery terminals.

Caution: When disconnecting, disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal first.

3. Remove battery frame nuts and battery frame.
4. Remove battery.

Installation
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

Caution: When connecting, connect the battery cable to the positive terminal first.

Battery frame nut: 3.92 N.m (0.4 kg-m, 35 in-lb)
Battery terminal nut: 5.4 N.m (0.55 kg-m, 48 in-lb)

Reset electronic systems as necessary. Refer to PG-6, "Additional Service When Removing Battery Negative Terminal: Special Repair Requirement". See: Battery > Programming and Relearning

This guide can help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem so we can see what's going on.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Monday, May 22nd, 2023 AT 2:22 PM
Tiny
ORLANDO SWEARINGEN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
The battery tested bad at Oreilly's. So, should this give me hope that it isn't my alternator or cause me more concern? At this point I'm pretty set that the sensors do not have a problem and were just receiving a faulty signal because of the battery well sending a bad signal. Anyway, I get a new battery tomorrow we'll see when I test the alt what happens I'll let you know and try and get some video so you can see what's going on. Thanks for all the info guys it's appreciated.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, May 24th, 2023 AT 12:53 AM
Tiny
BRENDON S
  • MECHANIC
  • 653 POSTS
Good morning, ORLANDO SWEARINGEN,

I think you're right. The battery may have caused those codes to appear from not receiving the right input voltage causing the wrong signal to be sent to the PCM.

I think replacing the battery and then testing the alternator is a good direction.

Here is an article that I think has a lot of useful information for testing the alternator:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

You will need a multi-meter or DVOM. If you don't have one, Klien makes a good one that you can pick up at The Home Depot. I will add an image for you in case you need it.

Here is the link to a pretty decent one for $60:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-600V-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter-MM400/206517333#overlay

Definitely let us know how it goes.

Thank you,
Brendon
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, May 24th, 2023 AT 7:12 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links