P0171 code too lean bank 1 ?

Hello, a lean code can be caused by a number of faults, such as a vacuum leak on that bank of the engine, faulty injector wiring, etc. Do you have your own scan tool, or code reader? Most of them will do live engine data, thats where you can go in a look at different sensor readings and we can even do some quick checks while looking at live engine data. Looking at the oxygen sensor voltage, Long and Short Term Fuel Trims (very important) at idle and at 2500rpm can help give direction almost right away. But looking into live scan tool data is where to start. Watching Fuel Trims at idle and off idle, we can determine the next line of testing.
Heres a guide to give some ideas of what can cause a lean code.

https://2carpros.com/articles/repair-lean-mixture-codes-p0171-or-p0174-on-some-manufacturers/

Diagrams 1 and 2 below are the vacuum hose routing looking down on the top of the engine. You can do a visual inspection first for any loose or broken hoses. Some vacuum leaks you can hear hissing. After you do your visual inspection, looking at some scan tool data will be our next step. We need to know if its an actual air leak into the engine, or possibly a lack of fuel.
If we see high positive Fuel Trim numbers on the live scan tool data (ie +15% for example) and raise the rpm to 2500 and the that +15% comes down closer to 0%, we know we are most likely dealing with a vacuum leak. The +15% means the engine computer(ECM) is adding 15% more fuel than it should to compensate for additional air entering the engine.
on the other hand, a failing sensor can cause the same code (is, an Oxygen sensor with a stuck low voltage will cause the ECM to think there is a lean exhaust when there really isnt.
You can see how combining scan tool data and a couple simple things such as raising the rpm can reveal what may be happening. The other diagrams are of the upper intake manifold gasket. There is a lower intake manifold with gaskets on each bank of the engine. We would find intake leaks using a smoke maching and isolating the crankcase from it to check for leaks. There are some other methods as well if needed.

Please explain I am a bit confused

You are getting a code for a lean exhaust, meaning a lack of fuel in the air/fuel mixture that the engine burns. One bank of the engine's oxygen sensors are reading this lean condition, hence the P0171 Lean Bank 1 exhaust. So you need to see what the engine computer is seeing. This is why we look at the live data coming from the engine computer(ECM).

We need to know what the ECM is seeing that it doesnt like and is setting the code for.
Understanding and using Fuel Trims which is a data reading you can look at on a scan tool. Explaining Long Term and Short Term fuel Trims in a paragraph is just going to confuse you more. This is why I was suggesting looking at the scan tool data, telling us what readings you are getting, and that way we can give you a set of next testing tips.

If you are completely unsure of what to do, then I would recommend having a shop at least diagnose the issue and tell you what the problem is, then do the repair yourself.
That will save you on labor charges. But you have to know what to look for in scan data or you are just staring at a bunch of readings that dont make any sense.
Did you look through the guide I posted for Lean Exhaust conditions?

Read through both of these guides.

https://2carpros.com/articles/repair-lean-mixture-codes-p0171-or-p0174-on-some-manufacturers/

https://2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge/

Here are the readings I got they are fluctuating and I know it’s hard to read but I have attached videos

STFT and LTFT, are the short term and long term fuel trims. Those are the numbers we want to see at idle and then at 2500rpm. Take note if the numbers are positive or negative. Technically it should be a high positive number if the ECM is setting a lean code. Positive numbers from 1% to +25%(for example) means the ECM is adding fuel, attempting to bring the air/fuel ratio back to where its suppposed to be. Negative numbers mean the ECM is taking fuel away, the opposite condition.
You want to have Fuel trims that are as close to zero (0%) as possible. I dont like to see anything that stays steady above 10% +/-. That points to a problem.
the next sensor I would look at are the Oxygen sensor readings.

This vehicle Im sure has 4 Oyxgen sensors, 2 up front before the Catayltic converters and 2 after the cats.

The rear Oxygen sensors (B1S2 and B2S2) bank 1 and bank 2, sensor #2, should read a steady voltage, lets say 0.6volts (600mv).

You dont want to see them fluctuating their voltage, or stuck low or high, such as 0.1volts or 0.9volts. Note this less than a 1volt reading on a basic OLD2 scan tool like you have.
Start by checking the oxygen sensor and fuel trim data at a hot idle and then raise the rpm to 2500rpm, try to hold it steady, and recheck those same sensor readings.
Oxygen sensors may be displayed with the B1S1 02 reading(Bank 1 Sensor 1-up front), Bank 2 Sensor 1-up front.
Just a quick look at the wiring diagrams, I only see 1 oxygen sensor up front of the cat and 1 behind it. Which is odd on a V6, usually there are at least 1 per bank of the engine.

*I was able to zoom in on a picture of your scan tool readings, the LT (long Term) FTRM1 has a reading of +16%, not good, add that with the 2% of ST (short term) fuel trim and you are at +18%.
Now raise the rpm to 2500 and hold it for a minute or two, does that number come down towards 0%?

What’s not good about it and what could be causing it and is it a serious issue, I’ll have to recheck the readings later and get back to you

The MAP reading looks ok at idle. Im trying to see if I can make out any other readings in your vidoes. If im seeing the MAF correctly, I think 0.445lb/min, that is about correct at idle, (converts to 3.3g/s). I cant see the IAT(F) reading at all.

I’ll try to get you better numbers when I test it again

Is this a serious issue or what’s not good what could be causing it in your opinion

The ECM is adding 18% more fuel, compensating for some issue. Im not seeing any bad sensor data yet, but check it at 2500rpm and let me know if that number comes down. And the Oxygen sensor readings - 02S11 and 02S12. These are you oxygen sensors. 02 Sensor 1 Bank 1, thats the front oxygen sensor. 02S12 is 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2- this is the sensor behind the catalytic converter in the exhaust pipt.
I can see the rear sensor is reading 0.796volts, so almost 0.8volts. The front sensor should be fluctuating from 0.2volts to 0.8volts to 0.2volts and so on. If it is stuck there, at what I think is 0.4volts? Im not sure, but it should not be a stuck voltage reading.

Its not as serious as an engine coming apart or anything like that, the ECM thinks the engine is lean, so it is compensating for it by adding fuel to the mixture. This can cause the converter to fail prematurely, but it may have already failed. Depending on how long its been running like this, and does the 16-18% change off idle? Are you getting any other codes, any cylinder misfire codes? How does it run?
I would think you have been driving around with it like this for awhile, and its now setting a code because the issue has reached a certain point or threshold. Hopefully that helps with the seriousness of it.

Here are the updated videos you requested

I idled the car just like you said

So in the last video you can see that as you held the throttle open, the Long Term fuel trims came down to +10%, and the Short Term was at -6% from what I could see. Adding those numbers together and we get +4%, which is good. Remember we want close to 0%.
This is confusing I understand that, but High positive fuel trim numbers at idle that come down at higher rpms, points to a vacuum leak being at least a main issue. Issues sush as a bad intake gasket or broken vacuum hose will cause leaks into the engine that effect it more when manifold vacuum is high such as at idle.
I would check for any leaking hoses and such, but really doing a smoke test on the intake manifold to check for leaks is what I would do if there are no obvious air leaks into the engine. This guide below has picture examples of cracked hoses and vacuum leaks. Smoke testing the intake will need to be done by a shop with the equiptment to do so. Or the test results can be misleading, especially on V engines like this.

https://2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge/

Ok but what hoses should I check on my vehicle specifically

Any air induction hoses, Evap vapor hoses running to the intake, etc. Here is a video showing smoke testing for vacuum leaks. He shows some basic testing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmqTis--hCo

Do you have a diagram for the lines I need to check

I posted these previously, but diagrams 1 and 2 are for vacuum hose and air intake hose routing in the engine compartment, diagrams 3 and 4 are for the vapor management system. If you dont have a smoke machine, it can be difficult to find these leaks, especially if its something like the lower intake manifold gasket leaking (for example), you wont be able to see that at all. The fastest way to get this repaired, if you have an inspection coming up, would be have someone smoke test the engine for you. Not the repair, let someone diagnose the fault and tell you what the issue is. Then do the repair yourself if you are comfortable with it.
Another test you can do with the engine running is spray a little water with a spray bottle around the area of lower intake manifold. If the leaks is present there and bad enough, you will hear the water being pulled in. It will sound like an air leak a bit more because of the water. But you can spend endless hours looking for leaks like this without the proper testing equiptment.

Would it be as simple as a oxygen sensor replacement?

It can be, but what do you do after you replace it and its not fixed. You end up spending more on parts that dont need to be replaced. To verify an 02 sensor is working correctly, you need to force it rich and force it lean to make sure the voltage will react to the current situation.
Was the B1S1 oxygen sensor fluctuating its voltage, or was it stuck there for a minute at 0.45volts (450mv)? If the front 02 sensor is not fluctuating and is stuck low, that can cause this code. in that case the sensor would be giving the PCM false data.

Ok I will have to check that out thanks

Really, look for either 02 sensor being stuck low voltage, but I think I saw the rear 02 reacting ok.

Ok well I think the front one is the problem but I’ll let ya know the readings

is it hanging around 0.4volts (400mv) not moving?

Umm I believe so I would have to check

All I know so far is the oxygen is fluctuating from negative volts to higher ones goes from -5 to a +7 or 8 I think or e ent up to a positive 10 and back down the bank 2 sensor reads nothing if there’s one but I’ll checks the numbers again

Lets remove the spark plugs on bank 1 and upload an image of them so we can see the color, you may have a clogged injector. A lean plug will be lighter than the others. That will be the bad injector. I have seen bad MAF sensor cause this as well.

Ok so I have a new problem, my dad was cleaning the throttle bottle and the plastic tube fell inside and might have gone into the intake, is this a problem or what do I need to take apart to find this

Yes, this is a problem, you cannot leave the plastic piece inside the engine, do not crank the engine over. Start from the top down until you find the part in question.

Too late for that the car was driven as we were unable to find it so hopefully it won’t cause an issue as I’ve been told it will melt or break up or go out the tail pipe

It’s just the lil red plastic straw, why wouldn’t affect anything and the car was driven already so not much I can do

It might be stuck or the engine already digested it.

Ok but will it affect anything severely?

Yes it can, once its melted, if its not melted onto one of the valves and made it throught the cylinder, it will make its way down to the Catalytic converter, melting plastic into the Cats substrate. I would put a bore scope down the intake manifold and see if you can see it on camera.

Well it seems to drive fine so idk

Okay that is good. If you feel okay about it then you might be good to go. There is a chance the tube is just stuck somewhere inside the engine or it digested it.

Well it’s been driving normal so idk

Yep, hard to say at this point.