What exactly is your charging voltage at the battery and then at the battery negative post and the Alternator positive post? As for the connector on the MAF sensor it should lock in place, so the connector is not loose. Take a look inside the connector and see if there is any corrosion, and check pin 2 for battery voltage. The charging system voltage should be above 12, really it should be 13.7 to 14.3 area. If it's not that's a problem. The vehicle has a lot of miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if you start to find corroded connections. Especially if you live in an area where they use a lot of salt on the roads. I live down south, so we don't see as many vehicles with crusty salted up connectors as up north.
Another thing to check if the MAF has 12v on pin 2 is the purge valve. If the purge valve is stuck open it can skew the MAF reading, with the car running, if you unplug the purge valve and pull off the hose coming from the canister there should be no vacuum being pulled through the valve, (meaning it's not stuck open). In the diagram below is the Purge valve circled in green. Unplug the electrical connector and pull off the section of hose in purple. And check that side of the valve for any air being pulled in. There shouldn't be any. Do this with the car running, you won't hurt anything, it might set a code, but just clear it after. You're only testing right now. If it's okay, we need to take a look at the signal the sensor is sending out. Your obd2 scan tool probably has a live data option. Most do at least for engine data. It should tell you what g/s the MAF is reading at idle.
So do those few checks, along with a number of the charging system voltage. And make sure that connector does click onto the sensor tight. Let us know what you find and if you have any more questions.
I don't blame you for not wanting to go to the dealership.
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Friday, October 7th, 2022 AT 1:46 PM