Engine is Overheating?

Hi,

Has anyone checked the coolant temperature sensor itself? It may have a bad connection or be faulty. Also, try this. When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Does coolant shoot out? Are there any air bubbles in the coolant when it is running?

Here is a link that explains how to check for a bad head gasket. It does mention the things you checked for; however there are other checks.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

If you look at pic 1, it shows the location of the engine coolant temp sensor (ECT).

Here are directions for replacement:

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1997 Ford Truck Ranger 2WD V6-3.0L VIN U
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Vehicle Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Computers and Control Systems Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) Service and Repair Procedures Coolant Temperature Sensor
COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

See pic 2

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

NOTE: When battery voltage is removed from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), all learned values will be cleared and reset to predetermined values. When battery voltage is restored to the PCM, the vehicle may exhibit certain driveability concerns. It will be necessary to drive the vehicle to allow the PCM to relearn values for optimum driveability and performance.

2. Partially drain cooling system.
3. Disconnect Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor electrical connector.
4. Remove ECT sensor from lower intake manifold.

INSTALLATION
1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
2. Tighten the ECT sensor to 16-24 Nm (12-17 lb ft).
3. Refill cooling system.

________________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Joe

First make sure you have enough coolant in your overflow tank and in your radiator (engine cold). If coolant is low, add coolant. If you lose coolant rapidly in the next days/hours, you have a leak somewhere: inspect all the hoses, radiator, radiator cap (any sign of coolant around the radiator neck?), Water pump (pay particular attention to the water pump as it is a common problem), heater core area (wet passenger floor?) Etc. If no external leak is detected you may have an internal leak (check for exhaust gas in coolant, pressure test your cooling system).
If your level of coolant is fine, make sure your thermostat is working okay: with engine at normal operating temperature, grab the upper radiator hose; it should feel very hot. If it doesn't feel very hot, just kind of lukewarm, your thermostat is stuck closed and you need to replace it.
If thermostat checks out okay, let's look at your cooling fan. I don't know if your car has electrical or mechanical fan. If mechanical: check your fan clutch; if fan spins freely (engine off) with no resistance when turn by hand (wheel of fortune style) clutch is no good. If electrical, make sure your fan comes on when your car gets in the hot zone. If fan doesn't come on, check relay, motor, connections, fuse. Try to put a jumper from the battery to the fan motor; if fan doesn't come on, motor is bad. If motor comes on, you have a bad relay, or bad wire, or bad connection.
More stuff to look at:
*your cooling system could be clogged: flush the system and refill with fresh coolant.
*your serpentine belt could be loose on the pulley; check belt and tensioner.
*your exhaust could be plugged
*your bottom hose may have collapsed

Let me know if you need clarification

Could be airlock in the system, defective water pump and blown headgasket, cracked head or block and intake leak-if it continues get it block and pressure tested

Welcome to 2CarPros.

The idea that water was coming from the exhaust in most cases is normal. Condensation can form in the exhaust and there is a weep hole on the muffler for it to exit.

Was the smoke more like steam? What I suggest is to check a couple things in particular. First, I suggest the following checks.

confirm fuel pump pressure is within the manufacturer's specs.

confirm the catalytic converter isn't plugged.

Confirm there are no diagnostic trouble codes are not stored in the computer.

Here are links that show how to perform these tests:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Here is a quick video that shows how to scan the computer

https://youtu.be/b2IJGfImVvw

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but most parts stores will do it for free or rent or lend a scanner to you.

Last, since you mentioned the white smoke, you may want to check if there is a head gasket issue. Here is a link that explains how to test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Try these things. I know it seems extensive, but most of these test don't take long to perform.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Joe

Could have warped and blew out the headgasket. Without that the cylinders will not build up pressure so it willl not run. Did coolant spray out anywhere? How long was it ran on hot?

Get a compression test done and get back to me wiht the results.

Is your cooling fan working?

Cooling system could be clogged. Water pump may not be pumping enough. Or maybe you got a dud of a thermostat (would not be the first time I have seen it).

The radiator cap has actually blown the radiator cap completely off the radiator? If so have you done a radiator block test yet? That checks for exhaust gases in your cooling system from a blown head gasket.

Go get the head check done, most mechanics can do this test while you wait, it will show up exhaust gasses in the cooling system which will indicate a head problem, unless the belt was not fitted correctly and failed the spanner on the tensioner it will not be the cause.

Hi tracy. You have a bad heater core. The core is in the heater box under your dash. Coolant runs through this core and a fan blows across it and heats your cab. When they go bad they lose coolant and no heat and fill your cab with steam. This is not an awful expensive repair but parts and labor will be about 300.00 or so. I hope this helps you billymac