2003 Opel Astra Engine management light coming and going

Thanks, I will put on diagnostics and let you know. I note from further internet research that it is not uncommon for the ECU itself to go bad and this would also result in the light coming on intermitently.

The guy in the garage got the error code P1113, which he cleared but on turning the engine on, it came back but with more codes (see attached print of the error reports).

After a bit of tinkering, he eventually cleared these and suggested that I see if they come back. I am not really sure I understood correctly (he is Spanish and I am still learning) but I think he was suggesting they may be old codes that were never cleared.

Anyway, so far they have not come back after a 60km drive. I suppose we shall have to wait and see.

Any thoughts?

Many thanks

Phil

I guess you probably can ´t read these attachments.

The codes are:

P1113-001
P1116-002
P1112-002
P0443

Hi

Fyi, light on again so will be taking to garage again tomorrow. Hopefully (and I suspect9 it will only be the one code that re-appears - P1113).

Now I now I am the kind of guy that prpobably gets right on your you know whats but.

I note that it only comes on when engine is warm and the temperature gauge reaches halfway. If you turn the engine offa d on right away it will usually come back on, however if you drive a bit more then turn engine off and on, it will go away.

I wonder if it could be related to something called the EGR valve? No idea exactly what it is but some websites indicate this could be a possible cause of such symptoms. Prhaps this would also explain the funny whistling noise coming from under the car when the engine is running?

Anyway, I ´ll let you know how I get on.

Many thanks

Phil

Hi

Sorry it has taken so long to get back on this.

Car is in garage and I am told it is the air flow meter. Is this the MAF? Anyway, fingers crossed it works. He says the part itself was 70 something euros which I ´ll have to take his word on I suppose.

Anyway - does this sound like a possible cause of the problem? I ´ll let you know if it does actialls solve the problem.

Many thanks

Phil

Well - the saga continues. Problem still not fixed and I shall definately not be using the same garage again.

In the end they have booked it into an Opel garage to establish what the proble is and what part is needed. It now seems it is likely somethng to do with the manifold thingy. In England I ´m told you can buy the whole thing including all the components etc. For 100 pounds - in Spain its 400 Euros! Anyway, they think it is something called the vacuum that is likeley to be the problem.

I will be glad when its all over!

If you have Twinport engine, P1113 error meens "Port deactivation position sensor circuit high/low voltage".

Sensor is located under inlet manifold. Whet you remove inlet manifold you'll see "manifold flange" which has port deactivation mehanic activated by vacum pump. Sensor sit on the other side and it's similar to TPS in older Z16SE engine, but it's not same sensor.

In Romania I found this on a website and it ""worksP1113:Este o problema cunoscuta la motoarele Z16XEP pe Astra-H.
Daca ajungeti la reprezentanta cu aceasta eroare, vi se spune sa inlocuiti galeria de admisie.
Nu e vina lor, asta e rezolvarea cunoscuta de ei (si de mine pana ieri).
Posted Image Posted Image
Costuri: 3400 lei galeria, 400 lei manopera instalare. Sau pe garantie, pentru norocosi.

Am intalnit-o de cateva ori pana acum, insa ieri i-am venit de hac ;)

Simptome:
Doar se aprinde beculetul enervant (masinuta cu cheita).
Si ce daca? Ar zice unii. In primul rand, e enervant. In al doilea rand, daca ai tot timpul beculetul aprins nu stii cand apare alta problema.
Daca aveti si alte simptome (gen tremurat), nu va incadrati la aceasta rezolvare. Ma contactati si studiem.

Cauza:
ECU vede o tensiune prea mica pe senzorul pozitie TW la initializare si are impresia ca e intrerupt sau ca e scurt la masa.

Solutie:
Ii aratam lu' ECU ca nu e niciun scurt si nicio intrerupere.
In primul rand, verificam senzorul (gasiti mufa lui in partea dreapta a galeriei de admisie, adica inspre baterie):
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Posted ImagePosted Image
Pin 1 - fir NegruAlb
Pin 2 - fir Maro
Pin 3 - fir RosuAlbastru
Practic e un potentiometru care, masurat cu un ohmmetru, are urmatoarele valori:
7.2 Kohm intre pinii 1 si 2 indiferent de pozitia cursorului;
1.6 Kohm intre 3 si 2, respectiv 8.8 Kohm intre 3 si 1 cand cursorul e la minim (adica lasat liber);
8.8 Kohm intre 3 si 2, respectiv 1.6 Kohm intre 3 si 1 cand cursorul e la maxim (adica la vreo 100 grade);
Chiar daca nu are fix valorile astea, nu va impacientati. Daca aveti variatie de rezistenta intre minim si maxim, e ok.
Nu intram prea mult in amanunte, ca sa nu para prea complicat :)

Se adauga una bucata rezistor de 680 ohm in serie cu potentiometrul, pe firul Maro (adica la pinul 2):
Posted Image
In acest fel, la initializare ECU vede o tensiune de 0.6V in loc de 0.1V si nu mai da eroare. Totul e in regula, aceasta valoare este perceputa ca si pozitie 0%.
Am efectuat toate testele posibile, fara sarcina (cu Tech2) cat si in sarcina. Twinportul se comporta excelent.

Cam asta e tot.
SUCCES! ""

my enghlish is not so god but I hope u can find someone to translate.