Check Engine Light

If your talking about the (malfunction indicator lamp), the lite came on because something is wrong. You need to chek for trouble-codes. Some of the national brand autostores will check some codes for free.

a few months ago, my upper rad hose blew. i had that replaced along with the thermostat. it gets hot still not to the red but still warmer than it should be. there are no puddles to be found anywhere on the ground. had a pressure test done and it was losing some but not alot so we changed the radiator cap. a few weeks later the check engine light came on and the car had no power. the next day it wouldnt start. fuel pump filter and regulator were replaced. it had something called cylinder wash and the injectors were cleaned. gave it a tune up and an oil change. now again...i am losing coolant with no puddles and the car is very hard to start and will stall out. it idles between 1000 and 2000 rpms. the check engine light came back on this morning and it says P0306 which is a misfire. i dont know where to even begin and of course my mechanic who fixed my car before is not returning my phone calls. i have not changed the wires or coil yet but that will be my starting point. my gas mileage at this point is ridiculous 1/8 tank in about 10 miles. just to and from work and my daughter's school which isnt that far.

We just sold our 98 Olds 88 today(about 30 minutes ago). The intake on this model generates a lot of heat and there a plastic heater hose that cracks after a while. This could be the source of your coolant leak. It is located near the water pump and appears to go into the block. The part is only about $4 plus tax @ Napa or Autozone. I'll think about the power/mpg issue and ask a few friends. If I can find an answer I'll let you know. Good luck!

Computer problem
1997 Oldsmobile 88 6 cyl Automatic 97000 miles

Check engine light came on and flashes. Had Autozone check for codes and came back with P0300 error code.
Replaced spark plugs spark plug wire set. Car starts but still has Vibration issue. Checked coil pack by using timing light at each spark plug wire and found coil pack 1 &4 not firing. Replaced coil pack and problem still exists. Had all old codes cleared and light came on again with same error code P0300. Where would you suggest I check next?
Lost up ****creek without a paddle.

Could be caused by vacuum leak or bad fuel.

I personally found that if you simply remove the radiator cap and put it on any ford you will have an outstanding running automobile, after replacing radiator cap with factory ford radiator cap.

I hope this helps ;-)

the check engine light came on and the car stop and now it won't crank at all what could be the problems?

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine

requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on

specific components to work and some components are part of more than one

function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything

about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the

failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't

present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves

to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to

look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to

isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found,

check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found,

check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the

pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete

compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

how do you pull cumputer codes with a paper clip? cant afford to pay 200 to take it to a shop and get it hooked up..what holes do i stick the clip in?..

The top row far right end two terminal's.

ok and how do you know what the codes are? the check engine light will flash or something? and you just count how many time it flashes? all the info you could give would be really helpfull! thanks!

Here's how to figure out what code number's you have let me know the number's and i will tell you what they mean.
SYSTEM CHECK:
The system check is performed through the twelve pin data link connector (DLC) under the instrument panel in the passenger compartment.

1. With ignition "ON" and the engine not running, observe the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). The lamp should be"ON". This is a bulb check to verify the "SES" light is working, and that the computer can complete the circuit. If there is no "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light, refer to DIAGNOSTIC CHARTS/A-CHARTS/CHART A-1, NO MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP . See: Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures\Related Tests and Information\A Charts\Chart A-1 No Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)
2. Ground the diagnostic test terminal (connect DLC terminals "A" & "B") and observe the MIL lamp. When the diagnostic terminal is grounded with the ignition "ON" and the engine "OFF", the lamp will go "OFF" for a moment, then flash a code 12. Code 12 is displayed by the MIL lamp flashing once, followed by a short pause, then two flashes in rapid succession, then a longer pause, and the code will repeat two more times. This is a diagnostic mode check. Code 12 displays to indicate the computers diagnostic mode is working. After code 12 is displayed a total of three times, any stored diagnostic trouble codes will be displayed in in the same manner, in numerical order. Each code will display three times before the next stored code. After all diagnostic trouble codes are displayed, code 12 will display again, and repeat until diagnostic mode is exited by removing the jumper wire from the diagnostic connector.

i tryed it and it didnt work..the very last hole on the top there is that metel thing in it and the paper clip stays in good. but the one right beside it there isnt that metel thing that holds it in..are you sure it isnt diffrent holes for my type car?

Brakes problem
1994 Oldsmobile 88 Automatic

Me and a friend replaced the Master Brake cylinder on the oldsmobile and flushed the brakes after. After we were done the brakes feel a lot better. Well now the brake light is stuck on and after I try to drive car a continuous beeping sound starts. In the instructions it said we needed a Tech 1 or equivalent scan tool but we didnt think we needed it. I have gotten 3 different solutions to fix but the beeping noise and always on e-brake light but havent tried any of them yet. They are 1) Use Scan Tool to Reset computer system to turn off e-brake light. 2) Flush all brake fluid and/or bleed brakes and 3) improper installation so take to shop. What do I do? There was air in my brakes before we started and my brakes felt spongy. Now they feel great so I dont know what I need to do. I know its something with the brake system warning light but I dont know what to do

the light just stays solid..

If the brakes are working good, take it to a nationally recognized parts store where they have the scan tools. Have them reset it for you.

NOTE: Most of the stores will do it for free.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Look at the diagram i posted do you have a 12 pin connector which is the top one or a 16 pin one which is the bottom one? Depending on exact production date you may have a different connector

Check eng. light comes on when decelerating or stop. Auto misses when trying to hold at, say 45mph. Turn off the ign.- restart the car, check eng. light is out. Drive a short distance, stop, check eng. light comes back on. Its driving me crazy.

I need you to check for trouble codes. Here are directions as to how to retrieve them as well as a list of what they mean. Let me know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/buick-cadillac-chevy-gmc-oldsmobile-pontiac-gm-1983-1995-obd1-code-definitions-and-retrieval-method

enter your question...1992 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Stall, bogging. I pulled up to a stop sign and my car shut down. When I tried to restart it a couple times, it would try but wouldn't turn over. Then I tried turning it over while gunning the gas and it would turn on, then shut right back off. I did that a couple times then while it was off, put it in neutral and pushed the gas, when it turned on I threw it in to drive and kept moving. I thought maybe I got bad gas so I put some iso-heet in about 1/2 a tank of gas. It didn't help. About ten minutes later, it felt like the car lost almost all of it's power, it wouldn't accelerate well, the check engine light came on and the speedometer stopped working. A couple blocks later the car went back to driving normal, the spedometer worked again and the check engine light went off. It did this again about 2 miles after it did it the first time then drove fine again. I just has an oil change and transmission flush last week. Any idea what could be going on?? Thank you!!

I would remove the ingition module and have it tested, this is free at most autoparts stores.

First thing you need to do is read the codes, look under the dash and find the ALDL, this is a small diagnostic connector then do this: PROCEDURES FOR READING GM FLASH CODES
1. Turn the ignition switch ON but do not start the engine.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" light come on indicating the bulb is working. If the light fails to come on, the bulb may be burned
out or there may be a problem in the Check Engine light circuit.
3. Locate the diagnostic connector for the computer. It is usually located under the instrument panel near the steering
column. Insert a jumper between the "TEST" and "GROUND" terminals.
CAUTION: Refer to a shop manual for the proper terminal locations. Jumping the wrong terminals may cause damage to the
computer system!
4. The Check Engine should now flash. The first code should be a code 12 (Flash, Pause, Flash Flash). Code 12 will repeat
two times.
If any other trouble codes are in the computer's memory, they will be displayed in numerical order starting with the lowest
number, and repeat three times. The codes will continue to repeat as long as the test terminal remains grounded.
NOTE: BE SURE TO WRITE DOWN ANY CODES THAT ARE PRESENT
NOTE: GM may use the same code number for different faults on different models of vehicles. That's why some code
numbers list more than one possible cause.
5. To exit diagnostic mode, turn ignition switch off and remove the jumper.
HOW TO CLEAR TROUBLE CODES
Trouble codes on most older vehicles can be cleared by removing battery voltage from the computer for at least 10 seconds.
Make sure the ignition switch is OFF, then remove the computer fuse from the fuse panel. Disconnecting the battery will also
work, but doing so will also cause the loss of stored information and presets in other electronic accessories such as the
radio, climate control system, memory seats, etc. Disconnecting the battery can also cause the computer to forget long term
fuel calibration adjustments, and may affect the operation of an electronic transmission until the computer can "relearn" the
shift points.
The preferred method of clearing trouble codes is to use a scan tool.
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Oldsmobile 88 Royal 1992 intermittent check engine light (code 41). Engine performance never changes. No set time or condition when it occurs or goes out or comes back on or goes out again. Checked Cam Sensor connertor and wiring to ECM. Replacer ECM with a spare ECM. No change.

Intermittent issues can be a pain to track. You have to test when the problem is ongoing. Because the crank and cam sensors share ref voltage and ground, I'd have to check the crank sensor also.

If you live in a state that doesn't do vehicle inspections and no driveability issues??? My state hasn't done vehicle inspections in years.

JDL TY for your help

UP-DATE 28 Sept 2011
ECM and Crank Sensor were replaced Mar 2001.
Replaced Cam Sensor and Check Engine Light is constant now. Removed Cam Sensor and rotated engine to inspect Magnet. No Magnet, only some what looks like some metal shavings and plastic holder. Guess there was enough magnet/shavings there to give intermittent reading.

While I have this all torn apart I am putting in new Timing Gears, rebuilding the Oil Pump and replace the Camshaft Interrupter. Now I know why a shop wanted $900 just to replace the Camshaft Interrupter.

It is recommended that I epoxy the Camshaft Interrupter to the cam gear.
Is this a good idea?
The magnet in the Camshaft Interrupter appears to be incased in plastic.
What could have caused the top of the Camshaft Interrupter to have worn away?
Should I place a drop of epoxy on the magnet to plastic also?

Will rotate engine after replacing timing gears to align Camshaft Interrupter with Cam Sensor opening in timing chain cover. There are no adjustments that I can find for the Camshaft Interrupter or Cam Sensor. Is there anything special I should look for before putting this all back together?

Looks to me like you got it all covered. Using the epoxy is fine, I've never used it on the magnet, itself?