Oil leak around VTEC spool valve

I watched a video on how to replace the gaskets on this, it looks super easy!
The problem is finding the gaskets, as it doesn't look like Honda sells them individually. And aftermarket ones are either out of stock or cheap Chinese ones with bad reviews.

I think the dealer was going to replace the entire VTEC Solenoid assembly, but even that doesn't explain the $775.00 price tag! I can find aftermarket solenoids with gaskets for under $100.00.

I have read that you have to be careful with torquing down the bolts or else you will damage the valve cover?

Hello,

The solenoid is relatively easy to replace as you have already seen how it is done.
One thing to remember, on leaks of this nature you cannot really use a stop leak. Personally, I have not seen one that actually work, especially on newer vehicles.

The reason why the dealer might have quoted you that price could be that the OEM replacement solenoid price is around $250.00 plus whatever labor they will charge you. The book does call for 3 hours. But as you might suspect it should not take that long with the right tools.
I have attached the OEM solenoid part number below.

Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you.

What is the proper torque spec on the bolts? I don't want to overtighten and damage anything.

Interestingly Honda does not provide the torque spec for those bolts. Best thing I can say is to do a hand tighten then a half turn that would provide just enough torque.

Okay, I took a chance on some aftermarket (China) gaskets for $9.00 on Amazon. Based on the reviews, I took the mesh screen from the OEM gasket (existing gasket was brittle btw probably why it leaked) and put it into the new one. Something about the mesh size is what they said.

Anyways I hand tightened the bolts then half a turn more as you said, and cleaned all the grime from where it had leaked as best I could with degreaser and toothbrush.

Drove it to the next town and back, making sure to get the RPMs up and also go into ECO mode. Everything seemed to work fine. When I got home, I checked and didn't see any new oil leaks. Hopefully that fixed it!

That is great news! Glad you got it fixed. Do appreciate you updating us with the fix.

Okay, I drove it to and from work today and noticed it was leaking again when I got home. Did some digging online, and most people said 6ft lbs on the bolts. I got a torque wrench and locked them down, hopefully it won't come loose again and leak.

6ft lbs is not a lot of force. But if that is the correct torque you will know soon.
Were there any deformities on the valve itself? Was the metal plate intact that is between the gaskets?

I didn't take it apart again this time, just tightened up the bolts. But when I took it apart initially the metal plate was fine. Only issue I found initially was the bottom gasket (the one with the metal mesh filter) was brittle and fell apart.

Hopefully the issue this time was the bolts not being tight enough. Most people I found said if you overtighten them, you'll get check engine codes, so I was trying to be cautious.

Yes, it's better to error on the side of caution as you do not want to crank anything.

Let me know how it goes.

Well, everything has been going swell until today when my check engine light came on and I noticed it never went into ECO mode, even on the highway. Code scanner says it's P3497 cylinder deactivation system bank 2. I don't see any oil leak around the VTEC solenoid anymore, could it be the solenoid itself failing?

It is possible that the issue is to do with the solenoid. However, it could be a number of other factors.
I have attached the troubleshooting guide for the code P3497 below. Follow those steps as it can help you determine the issue.
Let me know what you find or if you have any questions.

Unfortunately, I do not have any of the tools listed there, only a basic code scanner. Is there another method I could use to test this? I cleared the code and cranked the engine and the CEL did not come back. If it helps, I was on the highway speed up to 65MPH when the light came on...

Okay, I drove it around today after clearing the code and it ran fine, no CEL and ECO mode worked as it should. I guess I'll just keep an eye on it and if it persists or gets worse, I'll try to test at that time...

Sounds good. Let me know of any questions.

Okay, so I've noticed the CEL only comes on when driving at highway speeds 55+. Typically, if I clear it, it will be fine until next time I am running at high speeds.

But today the CEL came on and it just felt like it was idling/running rough, especially at the lower speeds. Code still reads the same as before, even after clearing it just comes right back upon starting the engine. So, I suspect the VTEC solenoid has finally crapped out and it's stuck in "limp mode".

How bad is it to continue driving in limp mode until I can get the VTEC solenoid replaced? This is my only vehicle...

What code are you getting?
It is best not to drive in the limp mode for extended period of time.
Is this reducing your top speed or giving you the very slow acceleration?

I'm getting P3497 on bank 2. Limp mode has poor acceleration and the engine sounds louder and vibration. But other than that, it drives fine. It's just rough because I guess it's not firing on all cylinders?

P2659 error has also popped up. Seems to be related to the VTEC solenoid as well.

So, you are getting the cylinder deactivation code. That is the reason why all the vibration and slow acceleration.
Is the solenoid leaking?

It's not leaking anymore since I replaced the gasket. But ever since I replaced the gasket, it's been throwing that error code when running at highway speeds. Until it finally stopped working entirely.

You could have gotten a defective solenoid. Was that a OEM part or aftermarket?

I didn't replace the solenoid, only the gasket to fix the oil leak. I'm going to replace the entire solenoid assembly and change the oil this weekend and report back if still having issues.

Sounds good. I will look out for your message.

Replaced the solenoid today and all codes are gone. Engine is running normally now.

Awesome!
Thank you for the update.

Hello, sorry to resurrect an old thread, but the P3497 for bank 2 has crept up again. I cleared the code and it drove fine for a few weeks, then it came back again today. The front VTEC solenoid was just replaced 2 years ago but I don't drive a lot since I work from home, so it doesn't have a lot of miles on it.

Oil was just changed a few months back; says it has 70% life left. It has been cold this winter, could that be the cause of the low oil pressure? Or could it be the quality of the oil? I did have to use a cheap oil last change due to cost, but I did get the OEM Honda filter...

Hi,

I noticed you haven't been contacted for a couple of days. Have you been able to make any progress?

Let me know.

Joe

So far, the CEL hasn't come back on, but it seems to be sporadic. I'm not sure if it's just the cheaper oil combined with low temperatures, or if the VTEC solenoid is having an issue. But the solenoid is only 2 years old with barely any mileage on it so I'm not sure. I've read that poor quality oil can cause this error code as well. Should I change the oil again with a higher quality and see how it goes?

Hi,

Certainly, changing the oil won't hurt anything. Is the present oil clean and full?

Joe

Yes it's full and still golden colored.

I have a feeling that changing it won't change things. Are you sure the oil that was used doesn't meet the manufacturer's specifications? Very few oils are not made to today's standards.

Also, I'm not sure where you are located, but cold temperatures certainly cause crazy things to happen. What is the temperature where you are located?

Joe

I'm in South Carolina. It's been down in the 20s at night and recently the teens. But most times when I go to drive it's in the 30s at least. I don't know if the cold is making the oil thicker and can't build up pressure quick enough? I hope the VTEC solenoid isn't failing it's not that old and I don't drive a lot...

Hi,

It does take longer for oil to flow when it's cold. As far as the VTEC, could it be still under warranty? I know a lot of parts stores have lifetime warranties on them.

Joe

I'd have to check if it has warranty, I got it from RockAuto.

Hi,

Chances are it won't be from them, but it would be worth checking.

Joe