No power, it will not go over 28 mph

Tiny
TMCPHERSON
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 7.5L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 726,003 MILES
They can't do emissions test. Got trouble codes 11 and 31 the other day, trying to retest, using different jumper wire- can't find the one I made.
It says low voltage to that sensor and I replace the sensor about 14 months ago. AutoZone guys said that could be the problem and it could be malfunctioning.
Sunday, November 24th, 2019 AT 11:01 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Good morning,

Code 11 means the system passed.

Which sensor did you replace?

Did the 31 return? Even if it did, that is not your issue. Low power can come from clogged catalytic converter or low fuel pressure. Have you checked either one of these? Check the EGR valve and see if it is stuck open. Otherwise, it is a voltage issue in the system.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

Roy
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Monday, November 25th, 2019 AT 4:09 AM
Tiny
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I haven't read all the links that you sent yet. After I sent the message last night I drove, I had to leave and my trouble light is staying on constantly, that's probably why the jumper didn't work. It's been several days since the first check information being number 11 and 31 trouble codes. #31 is EGR valve sensor receiving low voltage and that was the code explanation and since I just replaced it over a year ago I wondered if there was a low voltage issue in my system leading up to that sensor. (That sensor is under lifetime warranty but they cannot find it in the computer under my name, so I've been looking for the receipt for 3 days). Now I have another problem and I need to send you what I can find out about that, the check engine light is constant, no blinking when I drive, no blinking with a jumper.
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Monday, November 25th, 2019 AT 3:40 PM
Tiny
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Okay, you need to find a shop with a OBD1 scan tool to connect. You need a shop that has an old timer like myself working there that still has the tool.

Dealers do not have the scan tool anymore as well.

Roy
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Monday, November 25th, 2019 AT 4:01 PM
Tiny
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You would think that in Phoenix the fifth largest city in America, I could find an old-timer who works at a shop but I haven't. I did however find an Innova 3145 on eBay for $30.00 and for an additional price there's a extension so I can read the codes while inside the vehicle and that's probably what is 61 year-old backyard mechanic is going to have to do because I'm on my own since my income stopped suddenly, no notice a short time ago.
I added a note about what I am driving but it doesn't look like it sent -- my chassis is a 1989 Ford E350 7.5ltr fuel injected w/ C6, but it's also a Winnebago 27-foot Minnie Winnie, which narrows down again. I need a mechanic who has room to work on it. And basically I'll be living nowhere until the courts sort out my mother's probate and I receive one of her four houses, and that's another story.
Right now it would be perfect to find an old-timer mechanic who needed a secretary or a bookkeeper.
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Monday, November 25th, 2019 AT 5:20 PM
Tiny
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I wish I was around to help you.

Did you check the fuel pressure and the converter?

Roy
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Monday, November 25th, 2019 AT 6:42 PM
Tiny
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Roy - (I hope) this is Tamara with the RV sitting on a Ford chassis 1989 e-350 v-8 7.5gas fuel injected engine and C6 tranny. Hope you had a nice Thanksgiving.
Ive done code 31, EGR sensor - but had to drive it before that -- (note, problem is probly a new one) the check engine light came on and hasn't gone off. So can't do the OBD-1 (using jumper wire-) test to troubleshoot.
Can you give me a list of things that may be caused from?
1. Check engine light remains on.
2. Engine dies often and idle now inconsistent - unbalanced. (Checked wires/plugs already)
3. Very different smell from exhaust.

Tamara
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Monday, December 2nd, 2019 AT 1:48 PM
Tiny
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Also - the way it now sounds. I dare not drive it long enough to reset system to test with new sensor.
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Monday, December 2nd, 2019 AT 1:51 PM
Tiny
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Okay, I would check the EGR valve and make sure the passages are clear. Look at the valve itself and make sure it moves freely and closes all the way.

Do that check and let me know what you find.

Roy
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Monday, December 2nd, 2019 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
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The OBD-1 test said 31 - low voltage change sensor - I did.
But the check engine light came on before I changed sensor and hasn't gone out.
It appears to be from an unrelated problem.
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Monday, December 2nd, 2019 AT 4:23 PM
Tiny
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Correct.

Did you do the checks I suggested back a little?

Roy
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Monday, December 2nd, 2019 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
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The cat and fuel pressure test? No - I can borrow the tool test fuel pressure from AutoZone - but I don't think I can do it by myself.
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Monday, December 2nd, 2019 AT 6:15 PM
Tiny
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Yes. You need a helper.

Roy
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Monday, December 2nd, 2019 AT 6:43 PM

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