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O2 code

Tiny
HUNTSMAN6679
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 DODGE RAM
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 300,000 MILES
My truck started sputtering a couple days ago. I thought it was running out of gas. It idles fine, and I have no trouble when motor is cold. Once warmed up it starts acting up again. It gave the O2 heater code and I replaced the sensor this weekend. It seemed to help some, but not completely fixing the problem. Was told to replace catalytic converter, but wouldn't it throw a different code if the catalytic converter is bad? What is my next step to finding the cause of this?
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Monday, February 1st, 2016 AT 7:32 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
0/2 codes don't mean replace the 0/2. We need the exact code number.
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Monday, February 1st, 2016 AT 11:10 AM
Tiny
HUNTSMAN6679
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  • 5 POSTS
Ok so it coded 134 o2 sensor circuit 1/1 and then 145 o2 sensor heater 1/2. From this I take that I should change the sensor behind the catalytic converter correct?
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Wednesday, February 3rd, 2016 AT 9:54 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
You have 2 different problems with 2 different sensors. The upstream sensor on bank one is showing no activity. It needs to be tested to determine if the sensor is not sending a signal or the signal is being lost after it leaves there. You also need to determine if it is simply reading lean exhaust for some reason. The sensor is a reporting device. It doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is bad if you don't like the report.

The P0145 is slow response on sensor 3 of bank 1. That is usually a bad sensor.
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Wednesday, February 3rd, 2016 AT 10:05 AM
Tiny
HUNTSMAN6679
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  • 5 POSTS
I replaced sensor 1 this past weekend dur to advance auto advice. If sensor 2 is bad would that throw off sensor 1. Also how would I go about testing sensor 1 to see if any of that stuff is wrong? I saw a YouTube video on how to test it with a multimeter, will that help?
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Wednesday, February 3rd, 2016 AT 10:30 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Yes, you need to use a multimeter and test right at the sensor to eliminate wiring. The other one is bank 1 sensor 3
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Wednesday, February 3rd, 2016 AT 11:29 AM
Tiny
HUNTSMAN6679
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Ok tested
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Friday, February 5th, 2016 AT 5:49 AM
Tiny
HUNTSMAN6679
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Ok tested the sensors have power and all wiring looks good. Fuse is fine too. It is still running rough though.
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Friday, February 5th, 2016 AT 5:50 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
It's apparent that you don't understand how an 0/2 works and how to test it so I suggest you go through youtube and find some videos that explain this.
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Friday, February 5th, 2016 AT 7:03 AM
Tiny
HUNTSMAN6679
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  • 5 POSTS
I tested it just like the videos show. I have checked the power to it and that is good from the harnes end. I applied heat like the videos to the sensor and all was good there. It was working fine. Now it seems like it is flooded when idling. So whatever the issue it seemed to get worse once I tested them.
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Friday, February 5th, 2016 AT 8:02 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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Heat? I don't know what you were watching but you weren't testing an 0/2 signal.
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Friday, February 5th, 2016 AT 8:08 AM

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