Under heavy load it shuts off, but the engine is still running

Below is a video of what it’s doing.

That is a great video and really helps get us on the same page.

There are a few things that could cause this, but we should start with the basics because this looks like a grounding issue.

The fact that it only does it when you are accelerating makes me think that when the load is high the electrical just drops out.

So, let's start with checking the battery and make sure it is not low and then the battery terminals are clean and tight.

Here are a couple of guides that will help with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Let's start with this and go from there.

Thanks

I already went and got the battery load tested and it tested good. I also replaced the alternator because it was draining the battery. In the video I sent you i was cutting the key off and back on when the problem occurred. In the video from 7-13 second is what the problem is.

Okay. So, then just to be sure we are on the same page when it "shuts down" you just lose all power meaning it will not accelerate any longer?

Then you have no throttle response until you cycle the key?

If this is the case, then we need to suspect the issue is in the throttle body as this is an electronic throttle.

So, try and confirm this by checking the codes and we can go from there.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Let me know what questions you have but I am attaching the info below on how to replace it.

Correct, it will not accelerate anymore, and I have no throttle response until I cycle the key. The throttle body is good, I replaced it with a brand new one and it’s still doing the same thing. And the codes are p0070 ambient air temperature sensor circuit, p0171 system too lean and p0174 system too lean, but I have since fixed the issue with it running lean just haven’t had time to go and get the codes cleared.

Okay. So, that is narrowing it down.

At this point the only thing it can be is the accelerator pedal sensors or the DME. Assuming the wiring is fine between all this.

However, if there are no codes then the pedal sensor is likely fine because there are two sensors to cut down on failures. So, when the sensors are not reading the same it sets a code, and it is highly unlikely that they both fail at the same time.

This means I would replace the DME and retest operation.