Replaced crank sensor still won’t start?

There's a whole lot more to starting than one part. Please provide some details, history, related symptoms, or something to go on. Have you checked for spark? Did the truck run out of gas? Have you checked for diagnostic fault codes? If you don't know how to do that, let me know and I'll describe the procedure for you. Do you know how to check the operation of the automatic shutdown relay? If you don't know how, I can help with that, but you'll need a test light, and possibly a helper to turn the ignition switch.

Let me know what you've done so far, and the results of any tests, then we'll figure out where to go next.

There is no fault codes present it did this a year ago couldn’t get it running for weeks then it just started running again been have issues with tps for two weeks now then driving home it just started sputtering then shut off had no spark so changed coil and crank sensor still nothing was thinking of asd also how do I cheek that or by pass

Do not bypass anything.. this could just be loos dirty corroded ground wire specifically the grounding circuit for the asd relay ...its controlled/ switched on and off by the PCM.. a grounding circuit insid the PCM.
might be a grouning issue from the PCM to the ASD hence the jumpy behavior cutting in and out when driving it not starting and you mentioned it wouldnt start for a while then ran one day it started but died again and now no spark these are all signs of a bad ground to the ASD it might not be being turn on/off by the PCM CONSITANTLY DUE TO BAND GROUNDING ...so yeah id check there first at the pcm and at the Asd first ...but whatever you do absolutely do not bypass anything..its always best to try and restore it back to original configuration first and formost...keep it simple check for grounding issues first 7 out of 10 time its there...best of luck

What pins do I need to check at add relay and pcm

Here places ti check for bad grounds that ar directly related to the grounding of the pcam
1..the ground strap from batery to cylindr head also has pcm ground wires bolted ther together
2..phisical grounding strap from eng block to firewall sheetmetal
3...the power control modual/big black fuzebox..in the engine bay
4.. at pin number 85 on the asd relay socket this is the wire from the pcm used ti turn it on .
On thing at a time right so after checking grounds if nother ther is found them you can move to power supply ..but this is the best way ti start trust me ive been here before ..meanwhile if someone sees this
Maybe someone can provide you with a isolated ground wiring diagram pcm to asd and other various points around the vehicle if its availible ...alldata maybe ? Thanks for any help . I wish you lots of luck be well"

It acually not complicated as some would imply" but If you check theses places clean them get them tight theres a really good chance it will solve this problem so dont give up and start bypassing things that would not go well...if you do check these things without results.. we can help you get through the next steps and help you check other places if need be ok ..but please remain focused on all the grounding points first it wont be to long ..you will get there .. hope this helps let us kniw what you find thanks "

Hi guys. Sorry for the delay. There's two ways different mechanics could approach this. One is the way MECHTRIX described, by starting with the more common suspects when you know what those are. Grounds, in this case. My first career was as a tv / vcr repairman. As such, we came at it from a different angle. That is to start by testing the circuit to see what does and doesn't work, then work our way to the suspect, which could still be those grounds. The way my mind works, if you clean and shine up the ground points, then the engine starts and runs fine, is it because a ground was bad, or, as happened a year ago, it just decided to work for a while? I prefer to see for myself that incorrect voltage caused by a bad ground. To say that a different way, if you clean the grounds, the engine runs, how far out of town would you trust the diagnosis and repair? For me, it's no further than I'm willing to walk back home.

When you want to test the ASD circuit, it's best to use an old-fashioned, incandescent-type test light. Most digital voltmeters don't respond fast enough for the first part of this test. Find the wire that is the same color in every injector connector, the ignition coil(s), or you can use either smaller terminal bolted to the back of the alternator. On most Chrysler products around this time, it is the dark green / orange wire. I prefer to back-probe an injector connector alongside the wire because they're easiest to get to, and you may be able to see the test light from inside the truck. If you can't see it, you'll need a helper to turn the ignition switch.

When the ignition switch is turned to "run", you should see the test light turn on full brightness for just one second, then it will turn off. You might be able to hear the hum of the fuel pump at the same time. If the test light turns on, it proves the ASD relay and its circuitry are okay, and the computer has control of it.

Next, the test light should turn on again steady during engine rotation, (cranking or running). If it does, the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor are both working properly. It's by their signals the computer knows it's time to turn the ASD relay back on.

If the ASD relay doesn't turn on during cranking, you'll have no spark and no fuel because the injectors and ignition coil will be dead. On this model and year, you can't use the fuel pump for a clue because it is powered through its own relay, and that is switched by the computer on a different circuit than the ASD relay.

If the ASD relay does turn on during cranking, a no-start is going to be caused by a loss of fuel pressure, a loss of spark, or a loss of injector pulses, in that order of likelihood. Unlike on GM vehicles, it is almost unheard of for a Chrysler fuel pump to fail while you're driving, so, based on your previous experience, the pump is not the better suspect here. Chrysler pumps typically fail to start up, but if they do start running, they stay running.

Loss of injector pulses is the least likely suspect because it is not likely all eight individual circuits are going to fail at the same time. The one exception to this is in the wiring harness going to them. A single wire feeds 12 volts to the injectors from the ASD relay, and that wire runs through a connector where the harness goes from the body to the engine. Through flexing from a rocking engine, and corrosion from salt and water, that is the most likely place to find a break that would affect all injectors at once. While that can certainly be intermittent, you would experience the symptoms a lot more than what you described.

The reason I asked about running out of gas has to do with getting the engine restarted. There's no long crank time like we had with carburetors. Electric fuel pumps today get the job done within a few seconds, . . . as long as they have gas to suck up out of the tank. I used to occasionally run out of gas on purpose, then dump in a measured gallon to see what I could get for fuel mileage. I learned the hard way that this won't work on some vehicles.

With fuel pumps inside the gas tank, any time you'd get below roughly a quarter tank, going uphill or around corners would make the gas run away from the fuel pickup, then the pump would starve for fuel, pressure would drop almost instantly, and the engine would stall. With carburetors years ago, there was plenty of gas in its float bowl to overcome that. Today, electric pumps sit inside a small bowl welded to the bottom of the tank. A real high volume of gas is pumped to the fuel rail on the engine, then the majority of that gas flows through the pressure regulator, then back through a return line, into the tank where it flows up a ramp, around the bowl, and into the bowl. Through venturi action, it draws additional fuel into the bowl to keep it full.

What I found on my '88 Grand Caravan was when I'd pour in a gallon of gas, it dumped right into that bowl. That's where the fuel pickup screen sits, so it only took a pint of gas to get the engine to restart.

The gas tank on my '94 Grand Caravan worked the same way, but the gas missed that bowl when being poured in. On that model, I had to pour in at least five gallons for the level to get high enough to overflow into the bowl, then the engine could start. Once running, the returning gas kept the bowl full all the way down to an empty tank. I brought this up because every once in a while, someone would come here and tell us the engine was running fine until they ran out of gas, and then it wouldn't restart. All ya gotta do on some models is add more gas at first, then you can run it low again after that.

To add another comment of value to what MECHTRIX said about bypassing stuff, the Engine Computer does operate the ASD relay by switching the ground to its coil on and off. Some people will try to add a jumper wire to the relay to bypass the computer, but when the computer is not supplying the ground for the relay, it's because of a missing signal from the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor, and with that missing signal, the computer won't know when to fire an injector or the ignition coil, so the engine still won't run. This entire system, with the two sensors and the ASD relay, is a very important safety system, so no mechanic would ever consider trying to modify or bypass it. In the event you're in a crash where a fuel line is ruptured, the fuel pump could remain running, dumping raw gas onto the ground, creating a major fire hazard. Instead, with no fuel pressure, no fuel can spray from the injectors. The engine stalls, then there's no signal pulses from either sensor. With no signal pulses, the computer turns the ASD relay, (and the separate fuel pump relay on this model), off. That stops the fuel pump.

Let us know what you find up to this point, then we'll figure out where to go next.

I have no power at coil or the wire lead at the distributor it might be a grounding issue. It might be check and I have no power. I have no power to distributor. Is there a pin on the pcm I can cheek

Are you on the dark green / orange wire at the ignition coil? Most importantly, are you cranking the engine when checking for voltage there? If not, you'll only see 12 volts for the first one second when the ignition switch is turned on to "run".

If you really are missing the 12 volts, remove the ASD relay in the under-hood fuse box, then check for constant 12 volts on terminal # 30 in the socket. In the first drawing, the ASD relay is shown in the middle of the right side. In this sad second drawing I put together, use the middle relay in the top row. As I recall, terminal # 30 is the one the lower arrow is pointing to. If I'm wrong and you don't have 12 volts there, check on the other terminals with the ignition switch off. If it's missing, check fuse # 3, a 30-amp. Sorry to say, I've looked before, but they just couldn't be bothered to label the smaller fuses. You'll have to look for any 30-amp fuses. # 3 will usually be pretty close to the ASD relay.

For the distributor, there's three wires going to it, but none will have 12 volts. The black / light blue is the ground for the camshaft position sensor inside the distributor. It will actually have close to 0.2 volts on it. The tan / yellow is the signal wire. That's one of the two signals the computer needs to see to turn on the ASD relay. That sensor is powered by a carefully regulated 5.0 volts on the violet / white wire. 5.0 volts may not be enough to see with a standard test light.

Earlier you mentioned trouble with the throttle position sensor. What were the symptoms, and how did you figure that out? That sensor has very little to do with engine performance, and it won't prevent it from starting. You're also saying there are no fault codes now. There's a couple of things to be aware of regarding those codes. First, if the battery or Engine Computer were recently disconnected, the computer would lose its memory. Once reconnected, it will relearn fuel trim numbers and sensor personalities right away without you even knowing. There is one notable exception. That is "minimum throttle". Until that is relearned, idle speed will be too low, often to the point the engine will crank but not start unless you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4". If the engine does start, it won't give you the nice "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm at start-up, and it will tend to stall at stop signs. Let me know if it sounds like you need to do the procedure to relearn minimum throttle.

When the battery or computer is disconnected, any diagnostic fault codes are erased too. The second thing to be aware of is if a signal goes missing from the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor, it is very likely no fault code related to them will be set just from cranking the engine. They need more time for the defect to be detected, as in when a stalling engine is coasting to a stop. For that reason, do not assume the sensors are okay just because there's no code to say otherwise.

This is where you have to let the computer tell you what is happening. If your test light turns on at an injector or ignition coil during cranking, both sensors are working. If the test light does not turn on during cranking, but it does for that first one second, that's when we have to use a scanner to view live data and see what the computer is seeing. I have a Chrysler DRB3 for all of my older vehicles. That one shows a list of sensors, including the cam and crank sensors, and lists each one with a "No" or "Present" to show if those signals are showing up. We're looking for the one that doesn't switch to "Present" during cranking. If a signal is missing, it is most likely the fault of the sensor itself, but first we have to rule out wiring and connector terminal problems. Aftermarket scanners usually list those sensors too with their own indications as to whether the signals are showing up.

See how far this gets you, then tell us what you found.