car starts to sputter, shuts off, and will not restart?

Hi,

Does this happen only when the engine is warm or at any temperature? Also, have you checked or replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT)? The ECT is used by the ECM to determine the correct air-fuel ratio to the engine. If the sensor indicates it is -40 degrees, the computer will dump fuel to make it run in extreme temperatures. If it isn't cold outside, it will run poorly or not at all.

Next, this vehicle has an obd1 system. You don't need a scan tool to retrieve codes. All you need is a short jumper wire or even a paper clip. I would suggest checking to see if there are any codes stored.

Follow this link to retrieve codes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/buick-cadillac-chevy-gmc-oldsmobile-pontiac-gm-1983-1995-obd1-code-definitions-and-retrieval-method

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

joe

When I used the jumper wire I was getting codes 13 and 14. Would you might know where those are located?

Hi,

Code 14 is related to the engine coolant temp sensor. I suspect that is the problem.

In this case, it indicates the coolant is 275 degrees F. Is it overheating? If not, replace the sensor. It is causing the fuel mixture to be too lean.

I attached a pic below showing the location.

Also, the other code is for an O2 sensor. That one could be the result of the lean fuel mixture being caused by the ECT.

Let me know if that takes care of the problem.

Take care,

joe

See pic below.

I don’t think it is overheating the gauge on the dash reads that it’s stays between 200 and 220. But I noticed the fan doesn’t kick on. When I was jumping it out and turned the switch forward the fan cut on and would run but I took the jumper wires out from the obd1 and the fan won’t cut on. Didn’t know if that was due to the sensor being bad too?

Hi,

Anything is possible, but in this case, it should cause the fan to turn on. Keep in mind, the sensor is providing a signal for both the gauge and the ECM. The ECM is my concern. If it is sending false information, that is the likely cause of the problem.

Please understand, this is a theory, but I'm basing it on the code.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

I replaced the coolant sensor and the thermostat. I checked the codes again and the same codes were coming back 13 and 14. I tried starting the car and it still had trouble starting but it finally started. I let it run for a few minutes and when the temperature gauge got up to 220 the car started to sputter and miss and finally shut off. What should I look for next?

Hi,

How long did it take to reach 220 from a cold start? When you say a few minutes, that doesn't seem right.

Let me know.

Joe

I let the car run for about 20 to 30 minutes before the car reached the temperature of 220.

Have you tried running power directly to the cooling fans to see if they work?

Does this only happen at a specific temperature? If so, in addition to the engine running poorly, do you smell any strange odors? Did you ever notice any smoke from the exhaust?

Let me know.

Joe

I haven’t tried running power directly to the fan but when I ran a jumper wire on the obd1, when I turned the switch over to count the flashes the fan cut on outside and was running.

There were no fumes from what I could tell it has a hard time starting but when it does start it runs fine and will idle will no misses or sputters but this is the 3rd time right around 200 it will start to miss and sputter and shut off.

Hi,

That is a tough one. If it only happens at operating temperature, I wonder if there is an issue with fuel pressure. Have you checked it?

When you say it's hard to start, explain what it does. In other words, does it take 2 or 3 tries?

Let me know.


Joe

I’ve checked it with a fuel pressure gauge, and it seems to hold well. I’ve even tried starter fluid and it doesn’t seem to help. I have to crank it 7 to 12 times before it will try and run.

Hi,

What pressure did you get when tested? See pic below. Also, if you remove the vacuum hose from the regulator, is there any evidence of fuel being drawn through the vacuum hose?

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

It would hold right around 41 psi. I grounded the fan out so that it would run when the ignition switch being turned on. I was able to get it started and let it run for about 20 to 30 minutes. The temperature stayed cool right around 185 to 190 the car seemed to be running fine and idling fine, so I drove it about a mile down the road and when I went to put it in park it started to try and shut off again. I drove it the rest of the way home but when I let off the gas for it to idle it would sputter and shut off.

I have seen code 13 which I have seen them short out when hot and cause the problem you are describing. Also, when the engine cuts off does it have spark?

This guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

13 - Oxygen sensor circuit open.

14 - Coolant sensor high resistance or shorted.

Also, there is a fuel pump oil pressure switch I have seen go bad and cut the fuel pump off until the pressure returns in the sensor. So, let's make sure the engine oil is clean and full. Check out the images (below). Please let us know how it goes.