Not cranking

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

This isn't Roy, but I will try to help. If it is backfiring, either you have a build up of fuel or the timing is off.

First, I want you to check timing. I realize you have, but I am going to provide the specific directions so you can confirm it is correct.

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The attached pictures correlate with these directions.
Fig. 8 Aligning Timing Marks

Picture 1

REMOVAL
1. Remove timing cover. Refer to Timing Cover / Service and Repair.
2. Position No. 1 piston at TDC with marks on camshaft and crankshaft sprockets aligned, Fig. 8.
3. Remove camshaft sprocket and chain. If sprocket does not come off easily, a light blow on lower edge of sprocket should dislodge it.
4. Remove crankshaft sprocket.
5. Remove timing chain damper assembly bolts and damper.

Fig. 9 Replacing Timing Chain & Sprockets

Picture 2

INSTALLATION
1. Install timing chain damper assembly and bolts. Torque damper bolts to 18-24 Nm ( 13-18 ft. lbs. ).
2. Install crankshaft sprocket.
3. Apply Molykote or equivalent to sprocket thrust surface.
4. Hold sprocket with chain hanging down and align marks on camshaft and crankshaft sprockets, Fig. 9.
5. Align dowel in camshaft with dowel hole in camshaft sprocket.
6. Draw camshaft sprocket onto camshaft using attaching bolts, then torque bolt to 20-27 Nm ( 15-20 ft. lbs. ).
7. Lubricate timing chain with engine oil.
8. Install timing cover. Refer to Timing Cover / Service and Repair.

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Distributor removal and replacement.

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT
Service Precautions

1. When making compression checks, disconnect the ignition switch feed wire at the distributor. When disconnecting this connector do not use a screwdriver or tool to release the locking tab as it may break.
2. No periodic lubrication is required. Engine oil lubricates the lower bushing and an oil-filled reservoir provides lubrication for the upper bushing.
3. The tachometer (TACH-C) terminal is next to the ignition switch (BAT +) connector on the distributor cap.

NOTICE: The tachometer terminal must never be allowed to touch ground, as damage to the module and/or ignition coil can result.

Some tachometers currently in use may not be compatible with the high energy ignition system. Consult the manufacturer of the tachometer if questions arise.

4. Dwell adjustment is controlled by the module and cannot be adjusted.
5. The material used to construct the spark plug cables is very soft. This cable will withstand more heat and carry a higher voltage, but scuffing and cutting become easier. The spark plug cables must be routed correctly to prevent chafing or cutting. When removing a spark plug wire from a spark plug, twist the boot on the spark plug and pull on the boot only.

Distributor with Separate Coil

Picture 4

Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative (-) battery cable.
2. Wiring harness connectors at the side of the distributor cap (1).
3. Distributor cap (1) and move it out of the way.
- Note position of rotor and distributor housing in relation to engine.
4. Distributor clamp bolt (3) and hold-down clamp (2).
5. Distributor (11).
- Note position of rotor as distributor (11) is pulled up and mark final position.

Install or Connect

NOTICE: See "Notice" under Service Precautions. See: Distributor, Ignition > Vehicle Damage Warnings

Important: To ensure correct timing of the distributor, the distributor must be installed with the rotor correctly positioned as noted.

1. Distributor (11).
2. Hold-down clamp (2) and distributor clamp bolt (3).
Tighten
Distributor clamp bolt (3) to 36 Nm (27 lb.ft.).
3. Distributor cap (1).
4. Wiring harness connector at the side of the distributor cap (1).
5. Negative (-) battery cable.
6. Check ignition timing.

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Next, picture 4 shows cylinder allocation. The firing order is 1,2,3,4,5,6. Make sure you have the wires going to the correct cylinders and correctly installed on the distributor based on rotor rotational direction. You could have them backwards.

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If everything checks, reconfirm you are getting a continuous spark to the plugs. Here is a link showing how:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

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If spark is erratic, suspect a bad ignition module. If it isn't, then I suspect it is getting too much fuel.

Here is a link that discusses backfiring and its causes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-backfires-while-running

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Also, you may need to check fuel pressure to confirm it is within the manufacturer's specs as well as the regulator is functioning.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

See picture 5 for fuel test port location. Also, the specifications are as follow:

FUEL PRESSURE:

Ignition ON Engine OFF .................... 40.5 to 47.0 psi

With Regulator Vacuum Applied [1] .................... 3.0 - 10.0 psi Less than Ignition ON Engine OFF
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This is a lot of info, but I tried to add as many possible causes as possible. Note that I still feel there is a timing issue or fuel pressure issue. When you reviewed the link discussing backfiring, it specifically indicated fuel build up.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions. Make sure when you check timing that the distributor rotor points at cylinder one on the cap when the timing mark on the crank pulley is at top dead center (TDC).

Take care,
Joe