No Start after replacing crank position sensor

I had this problem and had to have the relarn done cost me $130.00 FYI

I installed a new 5.7 L engine in this vehicle. The subburan is running but is giving me a prom code of 1345. Installed new ckp and checked prom - for ground [ black wire or"B"] This is good. Checked prom+ for voltage=11.47 volts[pink wire or"C"]. Checked pulse or yellow wire while cranking vehicle over this 4x pulse signel sending to ECM is good. Also did relearn on ckp, Still comming up with the same code. Where do I go from here?

Would timing being off at the distributor give me the same code 1345?

Checked dist. Rotor not moving, shaft tight, changed pick up in dist. Same code 1345. Do I need to reflash the ECM?

The chevy 350 or 5.7L has no play in the timming chan this is new GM crate engine. I am replacing the distributer for this came out of old engine.

Ended up reflashing ECM, took care of problem

Vehicle was running fine and then started missing. Woild run rough after first cranked and then would clear up as it ran a little while. Finally got to where it would not crank at all. Replaced crank sensor, replaced distributor module and rotor. Checked fuel pressure. If you spray starting fluid in it it will crank for a moment. Found that the injectors are not firing, the spider is getting fire. Not sure where to go from here

Will a cranshaft sensor that is bad cause the engine not to fire during start up and will it cause the engine to burn alot more fuel and is this something that I can change out my self.

The answer is yes

I have the 2500 with the 8.1 and when it went bad it would just shut down intermittently without warning. I never noticed any difference in fuel mileage but then it's hard to tell with an 8.1 because it's so bad anyway. It wasn't expensive but it was a hassle. It was located on the back of the engine block above the transmission. To get to it I had to loosen the left side body mounts, jack the left side up a few inches (2x4s under the running board worked nicely) and remove the left inner fender well (a few of those pesky plastic pushpin thingys pulled out from the under side). I think I remember having to remove a heat shield from the firewall too. None of that is too bad but it still was barely reachable and I scratched the back of my arm up a bit by the time I was finished. There is a electrical plug, and one bolt straight into the block. Remove the bolt and plug and the sensor pulls up out of the block. Mine was broken about half way down. The casing on the shaft was broken but the wire was intact so it came out in one piece. If it doesn't, you're screwed, but chances are you'll be okay as I don't know why the wire would break anyway. The new one slipped right in place and the truck was all happy afterward.

99 chevy suburban V8 5.7 about 50,000 on new motor. Hi this may be long as it has been a problem for awhile and I need great help. We are a large family with 1 income and 1 family car the suburban. We had to change motor in it, the motor we used had been in fire not related to motor, we used mystery oil in it to free anything up and motor turned great so we put in, all we used was bottom motor and our stuff we already had on top. Longer story shorter after we took back out cause of pinched wires we got her running and moving, I was never so happy as I have been home bound for month. Now it will run rough like she isn't getting enough of something or is missing when I 1st start moving but once I get going like on interstate she is fine, put on machine and codes came up for #5 misfire, crank shaft censor, 1 of the o2 censors. This is what we have done:all new ac delco plugs, new plug wires, new rotory button and discribertor cap, o2 censor, crank shaft censor, fuel injector cleaner, mystery oil in the oil itself, drove it over 300 miles tring to let it work problems out. My engine light is still on and it is still running the same. Check codes yesterday and it is still showing #5 misfiring, changed that plug again and still no better. What else can it be or what should I do, I am lost the machanics friends I have are lost.I haave already spent house payment on these things and need my truck running good as I have 5 kids and just don't know were to go from here. Can't afford to keep playing guessing games.I don't have money right now to make donation but would be loving glad to in next week after payday if you can help us fix this with your advise thanks so much

You indicated that you used your old top end(heads, manifold)so 1st check your compression on #5 cyl. If it is to low you may have adjusted the valves to tight, kinda of what it sounds like. Hope this helps

Electrical problem
1999 Chevy Suburban V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 1ook miles

how do I reset the computer, after changing the crank sensor?