no start

So did it run before all those repairs?

yes, it ran great other than boiling out the overflow. we kept the tank full and did not allow it to get too hot while we were trying to fix the problem. first replaced thermostat, then pump, then tank. the tank fixed that problem. A few days later it began taking a few seconds longer to start then idled rough for approx one to two minutes before it evened out and ran great. It only did this on initial start up after it had sat for several hours. it was not drove for the weekend. When I went to leave for work it just cranked and would not start. It has gas, can hear fuel pump running, is sparking, belts do not look worn, oil does not smell burnt.

try what i am sending in picture, it may be security reset.

okay, will try this evening after work and let you know in morning. thanks

With the key in the run position is the security light on solid or flashing?

It is solid.

That could be your problem if the security system is keeping it from starting you will loose fuel injector pulse so your engine wont get fuel. did you try the three ten minute cycles like hamac300 suggested?

not yet. I will as soon as I get home from work and let bot of you know in the morning if it worked or not.

Okay, sounds good.

It didn't work. He tried 2 different times. The first time during the second cycle the distribution box began clicking and all lights went flashing before it locked him out of the system and drained battery. All fuses were still good. After recharging battery he attempted again and it still did not work.

Rent a noid Light set auto zone rents them to check for injector pulse.also have you checked to see if you have spark and fuel pressure?

yes and they are good.

So we have Atleast 40-50psi and have injector pulse for sure?

none of the stores here rent the noid lights. I am not sure what the pulse is. All i know is he and my brother-in-law told me they were good.

I would recheck the job to see if any ground wires were left off. Also the crankshaft sensor is near the water pump that can get damages or even go out when they are bumped during the repair.

Best, Ken

If you have spark 40-50psi of fuel pressure injector pulse and enough compression then it should start.Have you checked for codes in the computer?

Today he is retracing all the lines, replacing the spark plugs(because I told him to lol) and trying to see if the reset will work today. After that I do not know what he is trying next.

Let me know what happens.

ok he replaced the plugs and wires and made sure connections were good. Finally got the reset to work and got the car started. It is now idling rough for about a minute when it starts and blowing a white exhaust. There is no water in the oil. He changed it and the oil filter and keeps checking it at different points. It is also being had to start when it is hot. Any ideas?

It sounds like you have a blown head gasket. Here is a guide that will help you check for that

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken

They rent the chemical head gasket checker at auto zone you just have to buy the fluid for it

Okay guys, you all have been great. I need more help. A mechanic replaced the engine in the car for me. It is a used motor. It was running fine. It did idle a little rough, but nothing alarming. the only issue I saw was the coolant level. Every 3-4 days I was having to top the reservoir off. it was only about an inch below the level. I drive the car less than 40 miles a day. I have only had it back about 3 weeks. Last week on my way home it died as I was driving. It would not restart. I ran the battery down trying to get it to restart. My husband recharged the battery and it started with no problems. I drove it to work the day before yesterday. It drove great on the way to work. On the way home it died again.I was about 4 miles from home, so I had only drove about 12 miles. As it was late they waited until yesterday to get the car home. The car died on them again about about 1/4 mile from home. There is no warning, no lights come on, the thermostat is only half way (like normal). It would not restart right away. After about 15 minutes it did restart. By that time they had pushed it home and were only checking to see if it would restart. Any ideas?

check fuel pressure with a gauge and if you can check amp draw on fuel pump it may be to much and locking up. also check battery for condition including load test. see link for fp
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

None of the stores around has a fuel pressure gauge. One parts store even told me there was no such thing. It has only stopped on us at night when the weather is cold. How does he preform a load test on the battery? When I asked him about the battery, after it died on me the first time, he told me the battery was good, that I had just drained it from trying to start t and from the lights being on when I was pushed (not towed) to the house.

there is a machine you hook up to battery positive and negative and it will tell you voltage and when you hit the switch it has a resistor that puts a load on battery simulating starting. it also shows how dumb parts stores are to not have light equipment so DIY can test things themselves that is why you should never believe them when they diagnose a problem because they don't repair cars

Ok, they put in a new battery. We still can not find a gauge to check the fuel pressure. It is still doing the same thing. Any other ideas?

if thi sis the same car that has the security light on solid then try a resetone more time from previous replies. if it won't start then have amechanic hook his scanner to it to see what is wrong with the security system

the only light on now is the check engine light, but you know how that goes.

then do the security reset and scan for codes